Ask a Professional Detailer
One question I've been meaning to ask is regarding PO85RD. There has been a lot of discussion that to properly break down this product to a high gloss, a rotary polisher is needed. What are your thoughts on this Jeff?
I don't know if this has already been gone over in the 85 pages of threads. Quick question though. My friend works at a body shop and SWEARS by Meguiars #7 for cleaning up black paint real well and getting rid of a lot of fine swirls and small scratches... opinions on it? If you recommend it, how often should it be used and how long does it last?
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,076
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I don't know if this has already been gone over in the 85 pages of threads. Quick question though. My friend works at a body shop and SWEARS by Meguiars #7 for cleaning up black paint real well and getting rid of a lot of fine swirls and small scratches... opinions on it? If you recommend it, how often should it be used and how long does it last?
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
Sorry been super busy guys. I've read all your questions and will get to them as soon as I can. I have a couple minutes to answer a couple...
You do not NEED a rotary to break down 85RD at all. Myth. Breaks down just fine with a DA.
Well body shops typically don't know how to finish down paint.....check oh just about every thread of cars i've done and bodywork has been done....ALWAYS have issues.
#7 is a GLAZE. Its filled with oils to make the paint shine and fillers to HIDE the imperfections. Its great for bodyshops because it hides the shoddy rotary work they've done from the view of the customer....that is until its been washed off and then they see the horror of what's been left behind.
#7 does NOT get rid of swirls or scratches at ALL in my experience. And if you do manage to remove any, it takes longer than it would with a proper polish, so its a time waster in my book. It hides them for a very short time. Its great for people who don't know how to or don't care enough to correct paint....think of it as a temporary cheat, because you're masking the problem, not removing the problem.
I don't know if this has already been gone over in the 85 pages of threads. Quick question though. My friend works at a body shop and SWEARS by Meguiars #7 for cleaning up black paint real well and getting rid of a lot of fine swirls and small scratches... opinions on it? If you recommend it, how often should it be used and how long does it last?
Thanks a lot
Thanks a lot
#7 is a GLAZE. Its filled with oils to make the paint shine and fillers to HIDE the imperfections. Its great for bodyshops because it hides the shoddy rotary work they've done from the view of the customer....that is until its been washed off and then they see the horror of what's been left behind.
#7 does NOT get rid of swirls or scratches at ALL in my experience. And if you do manage to remove any, it takes longer than it would with a proper polish, so its a time waster in my book. It hides them for a very short time. Its great for people who don't know how to or don't care enough to correct paint....think of it as a temporary cheat, because you're masking the problem, not removing the problem.
Sorry been super busy guys. I've read all your questions and will get to them as soon as I can. I have a couple minutes to answer a couple...
You do not NEED a rotary to break down 85RD at all. Myth. Breaks down just fine with a DA.
Well body shops typically don't know how to finish down paint.....check oh just about every thread of cars i've done and bodywork has been done....ALWAYS have issues.
#7 is a GLAZE. Its filled with oils to make the paint shine and fillers to HIDE the imperfections. Its great for bodyshops because it hides the shoddy rotary work they've done from the view of the customer....that is until its been washed off and then they see the horror of what's been left behind.
#7 does NOT get rid of swirls or scratches at ALL in my experience. And if you do manage to remove any, it takes longer than it would with a proper polish, so its a time waster in my book. It hides them for a very short time. Its great for people who don't know how to or don't care enough to correct paint....think of it as a temporary cheat, because you're masking the problem, not removing the problem.
You do not NEED a rotary to break down 85RD at all. Myth. Breaks down just fine with a DA.
Well body shops typically don't know how to finish down paint.....check oh just about every thread of cars i've done and bodywork has been done....ALWAYS have issues.
#7 is a GLAZE. Its filled with oils to make the paint shine and fillers to HIDE the imperfections. Its great for bodyshops because it hides the shoddy rotary work they've done from the view of the customer....that is until its been washed off and then they see the horror of what's been left behind.
#7 does NOT get rid of swirls or scratches at ALL in my experience. And if you do manage to remove any, it takes longer than it would with a proper polish, so its a time waster in my book. It hides them for a very short time. Its great for people who don't know how to or don't care enough to correct paint....think of it as a temporary cheat, because you're masking the problem, not removing the problem.
Just FYI for everyone..... Another way to reach me and get questions answered is via Xbox live. I pretty much only play Modern Warfare 3, my way to unplug from work and relax.
I've already talked to some of you through that, so if you wanna add me that's cool. My gamer tag is Tru Dual Z28.
I'll be on late tonight.
I've already talked to some of you through that, so if you wanna add me that's cool. My gamer tag is Tru Dual Z28.
I'll be on late tonight.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
From: Edison NJ
I just got a ta hatch and it's covered in dried sap. I tried claybaring, paint thinner, windex, wd40 and scrapping it off with a razor. The razor was the only thing that worked on the glass but their is still a stain leftover which won't even budge with the stuff listed above. What tips or products could you recommend to help me out? I also have the same problem in the inside of the hatch which is tinted. Is the tint a goner?
Last edited by WayFast84; Jul 21, 2012 at 08:57 PM.
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ive had a detailing business on the side for 16 years...i do paint correction, scratch removal, compounding, polishing, buffing and multi stage correction with a rotary polisher and PC 7224..
i can help out with info as well...
here is a sample of my work...this was by far one of the worst ive detailed...
http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...detailing.html
My Wifes 2011 Fiesta after a full detail
My 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
50/50 pass on a foxbody i detailed...you can see how the correction removed defects
i can help out with info as well...
here is a sample of my work...this was by far one of the worst ive detailed...
http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...detailing.html
My Wifes 2011 Fiesta after a full detail
My 2010 Mazdaspeed 3
50/50 pass on a foxbody i detailed...you can see how the correction removed defects
give the porter cable a shot. i have one and love it....its very effective and wont burn your paint..also, a good selection of pads is your best friend and will make cutting and buffing more effective with less work
http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html
http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html
Anyways, I just pulled the trigger on my first rotary, the Makita 9227C. Thinking about probably just grabbing a 5" backing plate and using the LC 5.5" flat pads I've come to love. Can't wait to try it out on my daily driver saturn with imperfections galore!!
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
Get an HD Polisher it blows a Porter Cable out of the water and just as safe as a Porter Cable. Nothing to be scared of with a DA Polisher
Well body shops typically don't know how to finish down paint.....check oh just about every thread of cars i've done and bodywork has been done....ALWAYS have issues.
#7 is a GLAZE. Its filled with oils to make the paint shine and fillers to HIDE the imperfections. Its great for bodyshops because it hides the shoddy rotary work they've done from the view of the customer....that is until its been washed off and then they see the horror of what's been left behind.
#7 does NOT get rid of swirls or scratches at ALL in my experience. And if you do manage to remove any, it takes longer than it would with a proper polish, so its a time waster in my book. It hides them for a very short time. Its great for people who don't know how to or don't care enough to correct paint....think of it as a temporary cheat, because you're masking the problem, not removing the problem.
I know from talking to you before and what you have written here that you don't care for the glaze and thinks it's a waste.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
i agree as well..personally, i think hack detailers use glaze to hide flaws...but when i properly correct paint and check it with halogen lights i sometimes add a glaze to make certain paints pop...most of the time though, i leave it up to the customer during the consultation prior to the detail job..i explain all options and let them decide on what direction i go in.
I would like to add, that even though I agree that is hides imperfections and masks the issues. I feel as though it gives the finish especially on metalics, a sense of depth! With this being said, I tend to finish and correct the paint as well as I can personally with 105/205 combo, then I top with glaze #7, then I seal that glaze with some NXT 2.0. I've had some great results with this.
I know from talking to you before and what you have written here that you don't care for the glaze and thinks it's a waste.
I know from talking to you before and what you have written here that you don't care for the glaze and thinks it's a waste.
I would like to add, that even though I agree that is hides imperfections and masks the issues. I feel as though it gives the finish especially on metalics, a sense of depth! With this being said, I tend to finish and correct the paint as well as I can personally with 105/205 combo, then I top with glaze #7, then I seal that glaze with some NXT 2.0. I've had some great results with this.
I know from talking to you before and what you have written here that you don't care for the glaze and thinks it's a waste.
I know from talking to you before and what you have written here that you don't care for the glaze and thinks it's a waste.
However, I don't feel it surpasses the looks of the other top waxes and sealants out there, and since it has such a short life (by itself) it doesn't make sense to me as a professional where people are paying for my time and it could be spent on better, more modern products, thats all. Try not to take it personally.
You're right it does give a great depth, no question to that.
However, I don't feel it surpasses the looks of the other top waxes and sealants out there, and since it has such a short life (by itself) it doesn't make sense to me as a professional where people are paying for my time and it could be spent on better, more modern products, thats all. Try not to take it personally.
However, I don't feel it surpasses the looks of the other top waxes and sealants out there, and since it has such a short life (by itself) it doesn't make sense to me as a professional where people are paying for my time and it could be spent on better, more modern products, thats all. Try not to take it personally.