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How long will this beta testing will be going on before its over?
Good question!
As far as I am aware there is one of the three betas currently installing the unit in his car, time permitting. I am looking forward to hearing from the other two.
I would like to get feedback from the 1-2 of the 3 betas before shipping anything to anyone else, however since Derek and I have been running the hardware for months now on two different platforms I would go ahead and order circuit boards as soon as the first 1-2 beta testers have installed it in their cars and run a short test, i.e. before in-depth testing. I just want to make sure I don't end up with a dozen boards that contain some kind of bug.
If the beta testers give me that feedback, I'll start making the next batch of 10 while the evaluation is running in parallel, because whatever they find then will be software, and that can be fixed anytime independently from the hardware.
Good question!
As far as I am aware there is one of the three betas currently installing the unit in his car, time permitting. I am looking forward to hearing from the other two.
I would like to get feedback from the 1-2 of the 3 betas before shipping anything to anyone else, however since Derek and I have been running the hardware for months now on two different platforms I would go ahead and order circuit boards as soon as the first 1-2 beta testers have installed it in their cars and run a short test, i.e. before in-depth testing. I just want to make sure I don't end up with a dozen boards that contain some kind of bug.
If the beta testers give me that feedback, I'll start making the next batch of 10 while the evaluation is running in parallel, because whatever they find then will be software, and that can be fixed anytime independently from the hardware.
I'm already getting great feedback from the betas and using that to improve the installation instructions at www.fieros.de
I managed to get the OLED computer working with the F-body cluster's trip/oil reset button!
This means you can now reset the OLED computer's trip odometer by pushing the existing button, and you even keep the cluster's oil reset function!
It's a pretty simple modification, I've updated the instructions on the webpage , here's what the mod looks like:
one more thing I'm going to be working on is supporting the Corporate wheel modification, which has an "Info" and an "Enter" button below the cruise buttons on the left side:
It will allow you to operate the OLED module not only through the stock oil/reset button, but also to do a lot more with the info and enter buttons. Right now I'm thinking of a popup-menu for changing some settings, but the possibilities are really limitless (no, I'm not on NZT ;-) If you read the instructions closely you'll even see it already explains how to wire up the Info/Enter switches to the existing hardware!
Since I have the same cruise module as the F-body on my Fiero, I am going to make a small control board to make the cruise buttons functional as well. As this board is independent from the OLED module, it will work for those who don't want the OLED, but want to use the cruise switches on their C6 wheel. If we get the clockspring issue worked out, you can even support the radio switches on the right side.
But first the steering wheel and upper steering shaft have to show up in my mailbox, and then I can start engineering...
This has turned into a really exciting project... (I really can't wait to get my hands on that steering wheel, in case you can't tell)
P.S.: don't worry, this won't keep me from making modules for everyone on the waiting list so far, I'm just waiting for the verdicts of the betas before the PCB maker gets a "go"...
one more thing I'm going to be working on is supporting the Corporate wheel modification, which has an "Info" and an "Enter" button below the cruise buttons on the left side:
It will allow you to operate the OLED module not only through the stock oil/reset button, but also to do a lot more with the info and enter buttons. Right now I'm thinking of a popup-menu for changing some settings, but the possibilities are really limitless (no, I'm not on NZT ;-) If you read the instructions closely you'll even see it already explains how to wire up the Info/Enter switches to the existing hardware!
Since I have the same cruise module as the F-body on my Fiero, I am going to make a small control board to make the cruise buttons functional as well. As this board is independent from the OLED module, it will work for those who don't want the OLED, but want to use the cruise switches on their C6 wheel. If we get the clockspring issue worked out, you can even support the radio switches on the right side.
But first the steering wheel and upper steering shaft have to show up in my mailbox, and then I can start engineering...
This has turned into a really exciting project... (I really can't wait to get my hands on that steering wheel, in case you can't tell)
P.S.: don't worry, this won't keep me from making modules for everyone on the waiting list so far, I'm just waiting for the verdicts of the betas before the PCB maker gets a "go"...
I actually picked up a D shaped C6 wheel a few months back it (it was just too awesome to just let it there on the junk jard, If Im right it was custom made for a grandsport) it must be in my garage somewere... amazing mod and worth a try, but Im still worried about doing the Airbag swap, I dont see myself opening Airbags and swaping their cores... but If you are willing to work on the OLED as well on the cruise buttons, Im totally going to do this mod!
I actually picked up a D shaped C6 wheel a few months back it (it was just too awesome to just let it there on the junk jard, If Im right it was custom made for a grandsport) it must be in my garage somewere... amazing mod and worth a try, but Im still worried about doing the Airbag swap, I dont see myself opening Airbags and swaping their cores... but If you are willing to work on the OLED as well on the cruise buttons, Im totally going to do this mod!
Absolutely, I'm so eager to do this! The wheel is already on the way to me, and then I can start developing the small interface to "translate" the new corporate buttons to an output identical to the "old" cruise stalk. That design was flawed from the start, I don't know how many cruise controls don't work because this cable is broken and the stalk costs a fortune and is difficult to replace unless you take half the steering column apart.
I already have my eyes on an Alpine head unit that supports the radio controls too, so this will be a fully operational mod (at least for me, since I don't have an airbag in my Fiero anyway).
But regarding the airbag: The dual stage igniters are electrically the same as single stage igniters, there are standard components that are used in airbag control units to deploy these. If you hook up either stage of the airbag and don't get an error code, the resistance is within tolerances (usually 2-3 Ohms) and all is well. The firing voltage is usually above 30V to make sure they fire, but they also deploy if you apply only 12V. So, your old F-body module will be able to deploy the bag, probably more likely than your 20 year old airbag. Also, the f-body module will not deploy the bag on accident, at least no more likely than deploying your current bag. Unless you crash your car, the bag will stay in. Even with the new dual stage bags.
The only point left to consider is which stage to deploy. In a high speed crash the module will probably fire both igniters in quick succession. Or they may deploy the high power stage only and save the second stage to redeploy the bag for a subsequent crash. This is GMs secret. For low speed crashes they will fire the low power stage only do deploy the bag with less force. You will lose this behavior and didn't have it in the first place, so no loss. You can't fire both igniters with your existing module, you can't wire the bags in parallel or in series. In series will cut in half the ignition voltage, in parallel will cut in half the ignition current. Both variants will mess up the resistance and set an error code, unless you adjust the total resistance with resistors, which will cut in half both current and voltage. So this is a no-go. So your best bet is to wire the high power stage only. The standard time to deploy a bag is 30ms, and this is probably what the high power stage does as well. The extra charge (if fired at all) is probably to speed this up a little for a high speed crash. Either way this is still better than leaving the airbag unconnected...
Absolutely, I'm so eager to do this! The wheel is already on the way to me, and then I can start developing the small interface to "translate" the new corporate buttons to an output identical to the "old" cruise stalk. That design was flawed from the start, I don't know how many cruise controls don't work because this cable is broken and the stalk costs a fortune and is difficult to replace unless you take half the steering column apart.
I already have my eyes on an Alpine head unit that supports the radio controls too, so this will be a fully operational mod (at least for me, since I don't have an airbag in my Fiero anyway).
But regarding the airbag: The dual stage igniters are electrically the same as single stage igniters, there are standard components that are used in airbag control units to deploy these. If you hook up either stage of the airbag and don't get an error code, the resistance is within tolerances (usually 2-3 Ohms) and all is well. The firing voltage is usually above 30V to make sure they fire, but they also deploy if you apply only 12V. So, your old F-body module will be able to deploy the bag, probably more likely than your 20 year old airbag. Also, the f-body module will not deploy the bag on accident, at least no more likely than deploying your current bag. Unless you crash your car, the bag will stay in. Even with the new dual stage bags.
The only point left to consider is which stage to deploy. In a high speed crash the module will probably fire both igniters in quick succession. Or they may deploy the high power stage only and save the second stage to redeploy the bag for a subsequent crash. This is GMs secret. For low speed crashes they will fire the low power stage only do deploy the bag with less force. You will lose this behavior and didn't have it in the first place, so no loss. You can't fire both igniters with your existing module, you can't wire the bags in parallel or in series. In series will cut in half the ignition voltage, in parallel will cut in half the ignition current. Both variants will mess up the resistance and set an error code, unless you adjust the total resistance with resistors, which will cut in half both current and voltage. So this is a no-go. So your best bet is to wire the high power stage only. The standard time to deploy a bag is 30ms, and this is probably what the high power stage does as well. The extra charge (if fired at all) is probably to speed this up a little for a high speed crash. Either way this is still better than leaving the airbag unconnected...
Yeah I just realize that by checking the C6 Airbag, I guess Ill use a Cobalt Aira thatis waay less expensive and already got the chevy logo, also mine has paddleshifters, its a shame nothing cant be done there... Ill have to remove them ... or use them to tease people to believe I have a paddle shifted F body Lol...
Yeah I just realize that by checking the C6 Airbag, I guess Ill use a Cobalt Aira thatis waay less expensive and already got the chevy logo, also mine has paddleshifters, its a shame nothing cant be done there... Ill have to remove them ... or use them to tease people to believe I have a paddle shifted F body Lol...
But the Cobalt also features the dual stage bag, right?
If we could find a single stage bag that fits the corporate wheel (without swapping igniters and such) that would be sweet!
I think someone found the bag from an earlier Express van is single stage, but is the right dimensions to fit in the corporate wheel.
Yeah, it sorta fits, but you have to drill holes in the base plate to mount it (which isn't for everybody, but that's not the bad part).
My problem is: the bag seems slightly bigger, so my worry would be that it doesn't slide out as planned. I'd feel safer using only the high power stage of a single stage bag, but I may be wrong.
I wouldn't be too afraid of that if you wear protective goggles and an ESD grounding strap. You'd be drilling the base plate from a "dead" airbag, no danger there. And you'd be removing four nuts, moving the new bag to the new plate, and installing the same four nuts. If you stay away from the igniter contacts (better yet install two connectors with their contacts shorted), you're safe. If you don't feel safe doing that, you shouldn't swap bags in the first place. The igniter doesn't deploy if you drop it, but it may if you create a spark at the contacts. If the contacts are shorted and isolated, it's as safe as it is in the car.
I'd be more worried about it not inflating as intended after the modification, and that's something you'll only experience when you have an accident...
One way to be sure would bo to do swap the bag, ignite it intentionally and film the deployment using a high speed camera. Then you'd see if it inflates properly within 30ms.
But if you have a high speed camera you could also do the same with the high power stage from the dual stage bag and see if it deploys within 30ms and how long it takes to deflate.
And since you don't need the "handbag" anymore, you could do the same with the stock steering wheel and compare the behavior.
I bet they'd be all the same. Then we'd know which way to go is better, but my gut tells me there won't be much of a difference other than the new bag being smaller because it was designed to be used with seatbelts and tensioners while the old one may have taken an unbelted passenger into account...
02-23-2016, 10:02 AM
...and another outlook... 
