NRG Steering short hub, quick release and wheel Install :)
#1
NRG Steering short hub, quick release and wheel Install :)
Getting that damn clock spring clip out without the proper tools was a bitch and thats what took the longest throughout the whole install.
OK Part numbers for what I had (had to go check the boxes for ya)
- Short Hub: SRK-170H
- Quick Release: SRK-200BK
- Wheel: ST-001BK (320mm)
- ALL NRG PART NUMBERS
I did have to grind away some plastic ridges on the inside and sand away one side of the inside of the steering cover to give it some room. But man I feel accomplished right now. Its all done, and didnt **** anything up. I am most happy that I didn't blast my face with the airbag hahaha. Anyways heres pics of the process.
OK Part numbers for what I had (had to go check the boxes for ya)
- Short Hub: SRK-170H
- Quick Release: SRK-200BK
- Wheel: ST-001BK (320mm)
- ALL NRG PART NUMBERS
I did have to grind away some plastic ridges on the inside and sand away one side of the inside of the steering cover to give it some room. But man I feel accomplished right now. Its all done, and didnt **** anything up. I am most happy that I didn't blast my face with the airbag hahaha. Anyways heres pics of the process.
Last edited by jaxcam02; 04-14-2015 at 03:08 PM.
#5
Its great I just got back from radioshack hoping to find a damn 2.2 ohm resistor for the airbag system bypass. It feels really great, every thing is nice and tight. The only thing is, I need to pull the damn airbag wire from the column, I just stuffed it in there for now and its binding the blinker arm when I need to turn right. Once I get that out Im just going to put the resistor in the plug under the dash and tape it down real good.
Does anyone know what wattage the 2.2 Ohm resistor needs to be? 1/4, 1/2, 1/8. Radioshack didn't have any smaller than 10 ohm so I am going to have to order it online but before I order any i'd like to have the correct wattage just to be safe.
BTW the quick release is hella fun. It makes me feel important lol
Does anyone know what wattage the 2.2 Ohm resistor needs to be? 1/4, 1/2, 1/8. Radioshack didn't have any smaller than 10 ohm so I am going to have to order it online but before I order any i'd like to have the correct wattage just to be safe.
BTW the quick release is hella fun. It makes me feel important lol
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#13
OK Part numbers for what I had (had to go check the boxes for ya)
- Short Hub: SRK-170H
- Quick Release: SRK-200BK
- Wheel: ST-001BK (320mm)
- ALL NRG PART NUMBERS
OK so when you do this and I am sure you know this but disconnect the battery and let it sit for about an hour.
Most important thing to watch out for it the horn switch and wires. remove the airbag and the horn switch is connected to a white plastic casing that appears to have been a push and turn attachement. I say appears to be because I just dont know, I yanked it out and it broke where the tab would hold it in on the steering assembly behind the clockspring, just be careful.
Also don't just cut the wires from the clock spring, it comes out easier than you think with a pair of vice grip, just find a tab and pull gently slowly working it out. Then disconnect the wires under the column and you may be able to wiggle the wires through the column with the entire clockspring and wires attached for resale. I just cut mine on both sides of the clockspring and wish I hadnt so I could have sold the piece.
Then as far as making sure the hub is on straight when you put the new one on I would use the old wheel and just barely set it on the teeth of the column and if you can get the tires as straight as possible and with the help of a friend roll the car forward and backwards a bit to make sure the column is perfectly straight before attaching the new hub. Mine is just one tooth off center and its not really noticeable but I can notice it and its slightly annoying to me.
When you put the hub on and figure out how it needs to go on to be perfectly aligned I would heat up the hub teeth to give it a little expansion before you tighten it down, I had to retighten the hub nut once because it worked its way further down the column after driving for a week, heating it up before tightening may help, not sure though.
Everything else is pretty simple, oh and by the way keep the allen wrench tool that comes with the wheel in the car because the wheel bolts may work loose while breaking it in and youll want to tighten it up and its scary not having the allen tool with you and driving with loose bolts.
ANything other questions?
- Short Hub: SRK-170H
- Quick Release: SRK-200BK
- Wheel: ST-001BK (320mm)
- ALL NRG PART NUMBERS
OK so when you do this and I am sure you know this but disconnect the battery and let it sit for about an hour.
Most important thing to watch out for it the horn switch and wires. remove the airbag and the horn switch is connected to a white plastic casing that appears to have been a push and turn attachement. I say appears to be because I just dont know, I yanked it out and it broke where the tab would hold it in on the steering assembly behind the clockspring, just be careful.
Also don't just cut the wires from the clock spring, it comes out easier than you think with a pair of vice grip, just find a tab and pull gently slowly working it out. Then disconnect the wires under the column and you may be able to wiggle the wires through the column with the entire clockspring and wires attached for resale. I just cut mine on both sides of the clockspring and wish I hadnt so I could have sold the piece.
Then as far as making sure the hub is on straight when you put the new one on I would use the old wheel and just barely set it on the teeth of the column and if you can get the tires as straight as possible and with the help of a friend roll the car forward and backwards a bit to make sure the column is perfectly straight before attaching the new hub. Mine is just one tooth off center and its not really noticeable but I can notice it and its slightly annoying to me.
When you put the hub on and figure out how it needs to go on to be perfectly aligned I would heat up the hub teeth to give it a little expansion before you tighten it down, I had to retighten the hub nut once because it worked its way further down the column after driving for a week, heating it up before tightening may help, not sure though.
Everything else is pretty simple, oh and by the way keep the allen wrench tool that comes with the wheel in the car because the wheel bolts may work loose while breaking it in and youll want to tighten it up and its scary not having the allen tool with you and driving with loose bolts.
ANything other questions?
#15
I wouldn't keep the clock spring unless you are going to incorporate radio controls, from what I remember the clock spring went fit with the short hub, at least in my case with the hub I used.
As for the horn it works fine but since I broke the tab on the horn wiring retainer I have to use the pressure of the hub to hold it in place but it still works so if your careful you shouldn't have any issues getting yours to work
Also cruise control works with the turn signal arm so there wont be a problem. Mine works fine and I used the airbag resistor Bypass so the passenger airbag will still go off in case of accident.
As for the horn it works fine but since I broke the tab on the horn wiring retainer I have to use the pressure of the hub to hold it in place but it still works so if your careful you shouldn't have any issues getting yours to work
Also cruise control works with the turn signal arm so there wont be a problem. Mine works fine and I used the airbag resistor Bypass so the passenger airbag will still go off in case of accident.
Last edited by jaxcam02; 02-10-2015 at 10:28 PM.
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