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Most people just go with a dash mat or dash cover. Our dashes are very fragile. I was thinking of something mildly different though.
I was thinking of having my stock dash pad panel (the thin panel between the windshield and A-Pillers.) plastic welded back together. Afterward I was thinking of sanding it down then I wanted to have it fiber-glassed, sanded again, primer and painted charcoal grey then clear coated and put back in my car. The dash pad was the only piece I was thinking of getting Fiberglassed and clear coated... Oh and for that vent - like opening in the center of the dash where the alarm light indicator is, I wanted to trim that out and covert it to a black wire mesh grille....
I was wondering if this would be possible to do at all or not recommended? The other issue is sun-glare..which Im aware of... but let me know your opinions...
there are several threads on the subject, most people that go a similar route do the plastic welding or epoxy gluing of the pieces then they wrap the panel with vinyl or leather to match the interior, I would honestly NEVER suggest a fiberglass wrap that is painted up there on a car that is not garage kept, I knew a guy that had bought a prelude with all that kind of custom work professionally done (fiberglassed interior painted to match the body) and it was peeling up around the corners, fiberglass just won't stay bonded to the plastic in the long term, but the vinyl/leather holds it all together but still allows some flexing.
I would never put fiberglass on plastic period. There are flexible fillers and glazes on the market designed for plastic....of which you wont need if you plastic weld. Like Daniel suggested, do your welding then wrap it with vinyl.
When my dash pad cracked I had an upholstery shop repair the crack and wrap it in alcantera. I'm not sure what they used to repair the crack but they reinforced the underside with strips of plastic. The alcantera was the best thing I ever did to that interior, no more glare in the windshield whatsoever.
I did it in 2011 so I can't remember prices that well. I think the alcantera was $100 per yard and I bought 2 just to be safe. I can't remember how much the shop charged, they did a fantastic job though. I'll get pictures when there's some day light.
Unfortunately, the microfiber I used was of poor quality and it is badly faded already. I will either have an upholstery shop re-wrap it with the good stuff, or maybe try to dye it with some fabric dye.
Unfortunately, the microfiber I used was of poor quality and it is badly faded already. I will either have an upholstery shop re-wrap it with the good stuff, or maybe try to dye it with some fabric dye.
Thanks for the link. What kind of glue did you use to hold the fabric onto the dash and has it held up in the heat? I have heard some complaints and issues about that.
Edit: I noticed you shaped the mesh in the grille area and trimmed it to fit is what it looks like, but whats actually keeping it attached to the dashboard? Glue?
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Oct 25, 2016 at 01:23 AM.
Thanks for the link. What kind of glue did you use to hold the fabric onto the dash and has it held up in the heat? I have heard some complaints and issues about that.
Edit: I noticed you shaped the mesh in the grille area and trimmed it to fit is what it looks like, but whats actually keeping it attached to the dashboard? Glue?
The glue I used is 3M's 80 headliner adhesive (I found it at Home Depot). The glue did let go a bit in a few places. If the light hits it from the right angle, you can spot some bubbles. They are about the size of a quarter, but not lifted high enough to spot most of the time. The issue with the glue is that if you use a lot, it will soak through the microsuede, and the top will no longer be soft--not enough, and it won't stick well. I think the trick is to spray a light layer (or 3-4) to waterproof the back first, then lay it on thick after that dries. I learned this technique more recently, when using contact cement on walnut veneer.
The upholstery shop I talked to about it said that they first slather the plastic dash in Superglue(!) to make a bonding surface. Then they use "Dap Weldwood Contact Adhesive" (see pic).
Yes, the mesh is held in place from the underside by glue. I used the same methyl methacrylate epoxy that is required to glue the dash plastic. I believe the brand is Loctite Plastic Bonder (must have the "Bonder" in the name).
The glue I used is 3M's 80 headliner adhesive (I found it at Home Depot). The glue did let go a bit in a few places. If the light hits it from the right angle, you can spot some bubbles. They are about the size of a quarter, but not lifted high enough to spot most of the time. The issue with the glue is that if you use a lot, it will soak through the microsuede, and the top will no longer be soft--not enough, and it won't stick well. I think the trick is to spray a light layer (or 3-4) to waterproof the back first, then lay it on thick after that dries. I learned this technique more recently, when using contact cement on walnut veneer.
The upholstery shop I talked to about it said that they first slather the plastic dash in Superglue(!) to make a bonding surface. Then they use "Dap Weldwood Contact Adhesive" (see pic).
Yes, the mesh is held in place from the underside by glue. I used the same methyl methacrylate epoxy that is required to glue the dash plastic. I believe the brand is Loctite Plastic Bonder (must have the "Bonder" in the name).
Oh wow... Okay... So if I were to put it in steps...then...
#1 Slather the entire dash with a thick coat of Dap Weldwood Contact Adhesive using a paint brush or something then let dry.
#2 Spray the dash with 2-3 coats 3M's 80 headliner adhesive then the backside of the fabric with 2-3 coats and then let dry.
#3 Apply the fabric to the Dashboard and superglue the edges?
That is not correct. You are mixing up several different steps.
My technique was:
1) Sand down dashboard to give it tooth.
2) Glue back together with Loctite Plastic Bonder (methyl methacrylate epoxy) and cardboard backing behind cracks.
3) Sand glue surface after it cures. (Re-glue any areas that still need filling in. Sand.)
4) Cut out suede material LARGER than the dash top.
5) Apply 3M's 80 headliner adhesive to dash top and underside of wrap. Use multiple light coats from at least 2'.
6) Join together when tacky. Start at one side and work your way across, keeping constant tension on the fabric in order to avoid wrinkles. Use as much pressure as you can without risking breaking the plastic again.
7) Trim excess to leave about 1/2"-3" of material around the edges. Cut lines radiating outwards from the curving edges in order to smoothly wrap the excess material around the edges of the plastic.
8) Wrap the excess over and stick it down with the same headliner adhesive.
The Upholstery Shop's Technique:
1) Slather the entire top of the plastic in Superglue. (That would of course, be after my steps 1-4 to repair it.)
2) Let dry. (Sand?)
3) Use an HVLP spray gun to lay down a coating of Dap Weldwood Contact Adhesive on both surfaces.
4) Presumably, something similar to my steps 6-8.
Here is what I actually recommend:
Use my technique, but find a stronger glue than the headliner adhesive. If you can acquire the Dap Weldwood Contact Adhesive, great! You will have to figure out how to spray it or apply it evenly. I recently used some very powerful wood veneer adhesive, but it is water based, so it would absorb too easily into the suede. You may have to shop around for something better--and a way to apply it. Also, don't use microsuede from Joanne's Fabrics, it will fade. Use a high quality material.
So what type of plastic is this piece actually made from? I saw an old post here from LT4vert
The factory piece is ABS as well with a UV stabilizer blended with the raw material.
Then in this thread polypropylene is mentioned. Not a plastic expert, but I don't think it is actually PP, which is what a lot of the other interior plastics are made from IIRC.
Black window triangles (inside of the mirrors) are ABS though, for example, and seem more similar to the type of plastic as the crash pad. The thing is those parts have ABS stamped on them. Oddly the only stamp I could find on the dash pad / crash pad is "PC." If that is a material stamp, would that mean it is polycarbonate? Seems like a strange thing to make out of polycarbonate though.
Need to repair mine, and knowing what plastic it is would help me decide what method / product to use.
Was trying to learn a little about plastics last night. Apparently PC-ABS mixed parts aren't uncommon. Anyway...
PC solvent of choice appears to be methylene chloride.
ABS plumbing cement seems to use MEK and a bit of Acetone. Found conflicting info wrt MEK and polycarbonate. Anybody have experience bonding PC with MEK?
Alternatively, I saw a writeup for polycarbonate panel (snowmobile I think it was) repair where he used a urethane glue with fiberglass tape to reinforce it.
I had repaired this panel once in 2013, following a the non-wrapping write up, and used Loctite Plastic Bonder (IIRC). Issue was that my reinforcement wasn't that great apparently, and also it appeared the panel was getting stressed in the exact same spot when I snapped in the 4 retaining clips. Ended up cracking a gain in the same spot after a few months.
Also will note that I found a thread on another forum talking about these panels and blaming the metal clips for holding the panel too rigidly, with the recommendation that they be removed and simply replaced with velcro (sort of like how the front part of this panel is held).
Trying to decide between:
1. Plastic weld with some reinforcement afterwards, although haven't attempted plastic welding before.
2. Chemical bond with MEK or MEC and lexan backing reinforcement of cracks
3. Some other adhesive (urethane?) + fiberglass tape / mesh.
The cardboard backing and plastic weld really works. I am currently doing my dash and the areas where it was damaged is 10x stronger than it was without it. Probably even stronger than it was brand new.
My Dash crumbled to pieces, sometimes even while adjusting it. No..this is not something I would recommend. I managed to piece mine together but I am deathly afraid of how it's going to turn out when I'm done. I have some uneven areas which I can't fix without compromising the integrity of the panel that I am "hoping" that the Vinyl does a good enough job at hiding. Plus I still have to install the wire mesh and I'm hoping that it doesn't put too much tension on the panel. I may just install it on the bottom of the dash. Then I'm also worried about re-installing it. Its not perfectly aligned like it was when I pulled the panel out and I'm hoping it still fits well enough that it doesn't look lopsided.
This is not something I am ever going to attempt again, nor would I recommend it over purchasing a new dash unfortunately.
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Cracked Dash Idea 
