Paint Matching
Is it even possible to perfectly match the factory paint, or are my expectations too high?
Last edited by CySevans; Feb 2, 2005 at 10:48 AM.
PPG offers several different "blacks", the two most common are either derived from Brown or Blue. The Chevelle has brown based black on everything except the hood. (Blue base)
You or your paint shop can buy paint directly from the dealer, as they would know precisely which tints were used in the original formula, but even then, its a bit of a crapshoot.
I have been working in body shops for about 14 years and have NEVER seen a true "paint match".
Think of it this way. Your car is painted in the factory by a machine with a particular primer, a mixed batch of paint and then a clear coat. There is no way to reduplicate the process.
The fix to this is called "blending". Say you have a door repaired and repainted. In order to make your eye think it matches they sand down the adjoining panels (fender and quarter panel) and spray the same color that is going on your door onto about 3-5 inches of those panels. Then they will clear coat all 3 panels completly. The paint on the adjoining panels is "blended within the panel". So when you look at your door, it appears to match the edges of the other panels.
I can tell you this. I have owned a beautiful M3 that had about 10k in suspension and motor work done to it. I loved the car. However, I knew it had been painted in the rear. Everytime I washed the car I could tell it looked a tiny bit different. It eventually drove me crazy. My SS has a rub/scratch mark on the rear bumper that has been there since I bought her. I will never have it fixed. I know that the paint not matching will bother me more than the mark does.
Sorry this happened to you Vince. There are so many variables that go into painting the only real way for it to match it so wet sand it completly and either repaint it, or at least re-clearcoat it.
I know that there are people who are going to post back to this that they had their cars painted and they matched. Im hear to tell each one of them, that unless their cars were completly repainted, that they don't match.
-Tracey
-Tracey

And to those who would say that, I'd tell them to go buy a halogen construction light and go over every inch of the car. Those things show absolutely EVERY imperfection, swirl mark, spec of dust, you name it. I thought the car looked really good when I picked it up until I put it under the lamp. Oh, well.
And they did blend the paint into the rear quarter panel. I could see exactly where the new paint stopped and the old paint started. I had them redo the left front quarter panel and driver's door because it had obviously been painted before (very poorly). It was a good thing I did because the shop told me the clear coat was literally flaking off in areas. Now the paint that's on it is guaranteed for three years and the rest of the factory paint should be fine, too. I'll just have to avoid putting it under halogen lighting, or it will bug the crap out of me.
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Turns out it had been repainted before I bought it. I could see the off-color panel when it was in direct sunlight. When I took it to the shop to get an estimate from the accident, we noticed it even more on the driver's door and left front quarter panel (there was still overspray in the door sill and tape marks). The insurance company covered repainting the front bumper, and I paid out of my own pocket to restore the paint on the quarter panel and door and to remove all of the overspray. Like I mentioned above, it's a good thing I did because the shop told me the clearcoat from the previous repaint was flaking off.
Funny how things end up. I would've had to live with the repainted front bumper regardless even if the car still had the factory paint all around. I have never had a car that did not eventually have to go into the body shop for something. The only way to protect them, I suppose, is to leave them in the garage under a cover forever, huh?
Last edited by CySevans; Feb 3, 2005 at 10:04 AM.


