How do you remove the clothes hangers above the rear seat?
03-15-2006, 06:20 PM
#1
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How do you remove the clothes hangers above the rear seat? Hello all. I'm giving the 'ole TA a major interior cleaning and am laying down some new sound deadening. I'm stripping out the whole interior, cleaning the heck out of every piece, laying down some sound deadening, etc.
How on earth do you pop these little buggers off? I have half of the interior out of the car, but I can't get this piece off without the fear of breaking it. I tried popping the center piece out with a tiny flat head screwdriver, but that doesn't seem to do much.
Thanks!
How on earth do you pop these little buggers off? I have half of the interior out of the car, but I can't get this piece off without the fear of breaking it. I tried popping the center piece out with a tiny flat head screwdriver, but that doesn't seem to do much.
Thanks!
03-15-2006, 06:44 PM
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hey man...i had to remove them when i replaced my rear hatch struts...
honestly....try as best as you can to pry those little tabs out as much as possible...they wont come out all the way..but just a bit...then ...well..pull....you wont break them dont worry, they actually shoudl kinda just come off once you get that tab out far enough!...just be patient...its a PITA, but youll get em...and once you get it out, youll see just how it works and then its actually easier to get em out the second time haha
good luck
honestly....try as best as you can to pry those little tabs out as much as possible...they wont come out all the way..but just a bit...then ...well..pull....you wont break them dont worry, they actually shoudl kinda just come off once you get that tab out far enough!...just be patient...its a PITA, but youll get em...and once you get it out, youll see just how it works and then its actually easier to get em out the second time haha
good luck
03-15-2006, 06:56 PM
#4
Oh god, getting those off was the hardest part of gutting the interior.
Pry the little tab out with a small flat blade screwdriver.
Get a pair of pliers (I used channel locks) and grab hold of the tab and pull on the tab, while pulling on the whole assembly. They should pop right off.
Make sense?
I also gutted mine, cleaned it (along with the pools of water
) and layed down some sound deadening 
Remember to put some down inside the door panels too, that to me made the biggest difference bc of the nice "thump" the doors close with now!
Pry the little tab out with a small flat blade screwdriver.
Get a pair of pliers (I used channel locks) and grab hold of the tab and pull on the tab, while pulling on the whole assembly. They should pop right off.
Make sense?
I also gutted mine, cleaned it (along with the pools of water
) and layed down some sound deadening Remember to put some down inside the door panels too, that to me made the biggest difference bc of the nice "thump" the doors close with now!
03-15-2006, 07:38 PM
#6
I just grab ahold and pull. They will come out. I look at it like this, there cheap to replace if you break one, and if your mess with that tab your gonna scuff it up and it will look like crap. They always just come right out for me. Good luck
03-15-2006, 08:46 PM
#7
Originally Posted by CajunCC
What are you guys using for sound deadening? Dynamat? Something different? I've been wanting to do this for a while. Having a nice silent car on the highway would rule.
VERY OLD THREAD https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=frost+king
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03-15-2006, 10:31 PM
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I'm going to be using www.raamaudio.com for my sound deadening. I emailed the owner at rick@raamaudio.com and he sent back a very detailed email complete with pricing and a really great attached install guide that I'm currently reading through.
I'm getting:
1.5) rolls BXT RAAMmat 148.50
5) yards ensolite foam 49.75
2) cans adhesive 15.90
UPS ground shipping 31.26
Total $245.71
I'm going somewhat all out because I'm also planning on a nice new fairly high end stereo and this should really complement it well.
I'm getting:
1.5) rolls BXT RAAMmat 148.50
5) yards ensolite foam 49.75
2) cans adhesive 15.90
UPS ground shipping 31.26
Total $245.71
I'm going somewhat all out because I'm also planning on a nice new fairly high end stereo and this should really complement it well.
03-15-2006, 10:39 PM
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So doing this will improve my stereo sound as well? I already have 2 12inch subs in the t-top area and it thumps and sounds nasty as it is. Can't imagine it sounding any better.
03-15-2006, 10:47 PM
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The deadening is to eliminate the road noise and also any resonation from the subs. This stuff is used in competition car audio apparently.
I'm really looking foward to trying it.
I'm really looking foward to trying it.
I had to snap it back in
03-16-2006, 01:34 AM
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Holy crap. That's a serious insulation job there. I'll likely just do the hatch area and door panels. Thanks for the heads up on that duct insulation. That's what i'll use. Now i just need a day to do it.
03-16-2006, 06:59 AM
#15
Yeah it actually reduced the drone alot! I wasn't expecting much from the deadening, but it really surprised me. It was well worth it IMO. Plus It only added ~12lbs of weight, and I have less than $100 in the whole project 
03-16-2006, 12:37 PM
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I'm also wanting to reduce the drone. I'm actually doing two things. I'm having a hooker muffler welded into my SLP loudmouth and I'm laying all this stuff down in the doors, sail panels, floor, and the two places I've been told make the biggest difference...in the rear wheel wells and in the rear hatch area. Those areas have no factory sound deadening.
03-16-2006, 04:12 PM
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Don't go with the frost king it is only closed cell foam, not an actually deadener. Try secondskinaudio.com or raammat either are high-grade butyl rubber deadeners that will decrease any ambient noises like road noise, exhaust drone, etc and will prevent resonance from your speakers. Now if you put frost king or some other type of closed cell foam on top of a true deadener that is an even better set up.
03-20-2006, 01:33 PM
#19
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What about a layer (or two) of "Peel-n-Seal" and then Frost King?
For those that are wondering, Peal-n-Seal is actually a roofing product. It looks like real sound deadener though (foil-backed black stuff, only thinner), but I think its asfault-based (I think older sound deader was too?). Its available at Lowes. Some on here have used it and I gave it a try in my doors. I haven't tried Dynamat for a comparison (other than inside my computer, to quiet it down), but i guess it helped make the doors "sound/feel" more solid closing, but it may be a placebo affect. Since the rest of the car doesn't have any sound deadening (other than what was supplied from the factory), I can't say that the noise level has changed. I'd recommend using foil tape (I did) on the seams to keep everything together and effectively join all the foil backing into one uniform piece (may be a good idea for real sound deadener too). You can get it at Home Depot and Lowes.
For those that are wondering, Peal-n-Seal is actually a roofing product. It looks like real sound deadener though (foil-backed black stuff, only thinner), but I think its asfault-based (I think older sound deader was too?). Its available at Lowes. Some on here have used it and I gave it a try in my doors. I haven't tried Dynamat for a comparison (other than inside my computer, to quiet it down), but i guess it helped make the doors "sound/feel" more solid closing, but it may be a placebo affect. Since the rest of the car doesn't have any sound deadening (other than what was supplied from the factory), I can't say that the noise level has changed. I'd recommend using foil tape (I did) on the seams to keep everything together and effectively join all the foil backing into one uniform piece (may be a good idea for real sound deadener too). You can get it at Home Depot and Lowes.
03-20-2006, 04:36 PM
#20
Originally Posted by 69TA
W105,
That was nice job you did there. How much to do my car J/K
That was nice job you did there. How much to do my car J/K
It really wasnt that bad though, serioulsy try it yourself. Under $100, reduces sound and not too hard to do. 