Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

First of all, yes, I searched through every Whistler thread I could find here.

I'm probably going to try to do the Whistler mod to my car here in the next few days and was wondering if the black paint I use needs to be high-temp or not. I wouldn't think so, but I'm not sure how hot it gets inside those headlights with them on. Can clearcoat be used over it then? I'm trying to get a decent gloss to it so it doesn't quite look so dull.

Also, someone said you're supposed to actually brush it on? I was under the impression that it was done with a spray can.

navymitch12

iTrader: (1)

i am very intrested in know this as well...i think i am gonna do mine this morning

Zymosis

iTrader: (7)

I used a rattle can krylon (paint for plastics). Just masked everything off really good (which was the biggest PITA).

I had no problems with them. I later got halos and got rid of my whisler head lights, so my results are 3 months or so long.

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I was planning on using a gloss black can of Krylon Paint for Plastic, seeing as I used it to paint the SS scoop hood insert on my old Z and it worked great.

How long did it take for yours to dry properly? Or how long in between coats? I don't want to be without headlights for a day or two.

Zymosis

iTrader: (7)

I got ancy and only waited until the paint was no longer 'tacky' (sitting outside in the breeze made them dry fairly quick)

I'd say I waited about an 30-45 mins between each coat. I did 3 coats, and did not use clear.

co.6z28

iTrader: (1)

i used left over paint that i bought for painting the 9". black gloss enamel stuff. came out good. i dont think it matters really

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

Sounds good guys. Thanks for the feedback.

Looks like my day tomorrow consists of nothing except going to the gym, moving some stuff to the new house, buying some Krylon gloss black paint, and going to town on my headlights. I love days off.

texasreb18

iTrader: (1)

i used the krylon "fusion" satin black, and i thought the color looked pretty good. One recommendation i have for taping them off is to just get the painter's tape/masking tape and cover the whole backside roughly, then get a razor and cut out what you want. It may put a small scratch on the paint line but you cant tell and it is MUCH easier than trying to tape it off by following the lines

And when we sealed mine up, we used alot of clear in the groove, and it kinda oozed up into the housing so you can see it if you get up close. I would use black silicone/RTV in the groove then clear on the outside.

Good luck with everything

jeff00z28

i just painted mine today w/ black spraypaint and clearcoat. It looks really good and I would def. recommend the mod.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

Rattle-canned here.
Yes.

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

No offense but that's pretty much a, "here's what NOT to do" post...

Here's some tips:

Hightemp is NOT neccessary (Duplicolor Low-Gloss ENGINE Enamel does give the best color though)

DO NOT BRUSH IT ON, that is RETARDED (rattlecan all the way)!!!

DO NOT USE A RAZOR BLADE!!! You will cut the chrome and it will eventually peel... Just take your time with masking tape...

45 minutes dry time is RIDICULOUS!!! Spray a coat, wait 1-2 minutes (as long as you aren't spraying in an artic climate), spray again... Start with the hard to reach areas (buckets and inner walls) and save the face for last... just like spraying anything else.

DON'T FORGET TO PAINT THE BACK (the OUTSIDE back)! Just cover the 4 holes (2 for the lights and 2 vent holes) and spray the back FIRST. Looks SO much better than the factory grey.

DO NOT put a lot of sealant on the inside (or it will goop up like the above mentioned). You put it on VERY SPARINGLY, re-attach the lenses THEN goop away on the OUTSIDE (I use the clear windshield/glass sealer).

PRY the lenses off VERY CAREFULLY! If you do crack the housing super glue is your new best friend... You'll need to apply many coats of it though as the headlights are pourous...

The whole process should take a solid afternoon. The baking/getting the lenses off and taping off the areas you don't want painted will take up half of the time... 1- 1 1/2 hours probably.

Scuffing and spraying is quick (probably 30 minutes total) and re-assembly should take 30 minutes TOPS as well.

So, taking your time I would say 3-4 hours start to finish headlights back on the car.

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm not too sure what you're talking about in terms of the sealant on the outside or goop on the inside, but I'm going to pick up all the necessary supplies today and have at it. So I'm sure I'll figure out exactly what you meant. I've decided that since so many are doing the normal Whistler mod and I don't quite want my headlights to be that dark, I'm just doing the outer part of the chromed edge, like the Procarparts version. Should just involve a little more masking off to get just that outside edge to show, but it will be different than the others, which is what I'm looking for in terms of being subtle. Once again, thanks for all the help!

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

That looks retarded... sorry but it's true...

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

Different strokes for different folks bud.

I'm not a fan of the halos too much and I'm not going for the really dark look on my headlights, so this is what I decided on. I think that the normal full Whistler just looks too dark and cloudy at times, so I want to keep the headlights lighter looking and sharp. Plus they will go better with the rest of the theme I'm aiming for on my car.

It's okay, I don't care if others don't like them.

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

The cloudy is just from un-polished lenses...

Did you ever think about a gunmetal grey instead of black? I think gunmetal grey FULL Whistler mod would look good...

OR GLOSS BLACK (since the rims are gloss black) the way you are describing...

OR Low-Gloss black the real Whistler way...

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

I understand that often the fogginess is from older lights, but I'm talking about the depth of the headlights. When stock, you can see the lightness to them and everything looks crystal clear. However, with the full Whistler, they often lose that depth and start looking like a big chunk of darkness in the headlights. It does look good, but that wasn't what I was going for.

I considered gunmetal, but the type of paint I was using didn't make that color (at least not in the places I checked). Also, the black wheels will be gone soon in favor of chrome ZR1s.

As for loss-gloss black, I think that only adds to the dark/unclear/foggy look. I used a high gloss black and only did the edges. My car is ultimately going to end up with a part bling/part black theme. Since it is already pewter, too much chrome just brightens the car too much. But too much black in a secondary accent theme makes it look like crap. I'll have chrome ZR1s, mirrored inserts in back, and polished CME. Up front I'll have these headlights, black billet grille, and diamond clear corners. I think it will be a nice balance of lighter colors with more bling mixed in with black. It should be a combination of classiness and aggressiveness, but not too much of an emphasis on one or the other.

It's all about the theme, not just walking into it blindly and doing things the way they're typically done. Subtleness is the key. Less = More.

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

True, if you do that you'll end up with Halos you hate... :cough: me :cough: and sell a week later !

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

Agreed.

I, for one, am glad you chose to go back to the stock Whistler'ed headlights. I guess I just started to see what Silver02TA was talking about all along when he said that they just don't flow well with the lines of the car. The halo part itself is cool, but they just don't really fit in well.