Dupont automotive paint on interior:Prep
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Ok, my last thread died so here goes another one.
I'm painting most of my interior pieces with Dupont automotive paint after every other type of paint I used did not give me the deep, show quality finish I was looking for. I will be doing gloss black and Sebring Silver. First, I will be doing the black pieces. These are the pieces to be painted black:
A-pillars
Floor/door sills
Hatch and backseat speaker panels
Lower center console
I prepped the surface by sanding it with 60 grit sandpaper. I wiped clean with rubbing alcohol then sprayed 2 coats of Bullydog Plastic Adhesive Promotoer. I let that dry for about an hour then I used Duplicolor High Build Primer. I used quite a few coats of this to allow for sanding. I sanded with 120, 220, 400, and 800 grit. Is this enough? The problem I kept running in with with my other paint selections was seeing many, many tiny little impurities in the surface. They were all unsandable paints, so I had to deal with that look. Here are my questions (finally!)
- Should I continue sanding up to 1000 and 1500 or should I stop at 800 and just wetsand the new paint?
-How many coats should I put on? There is a hardener with the paint so I will NOT be using a clear coat
-How long should I let the auto paint dry before attempting to wetsand? How high of grit should I wetsand to? I have 1000, 1500 and 2000 available.
-Should I go ahead and buy a clearcoat even though it is a high gloss finish with a hardener? I imagine it won't get treated to roughly, but is the extra $40 worth it?
I'm painting most of my interior pieces with Dupont automotive paint after every other type of paint I used did not give me the deep, show quality finish I was looking for. I will be doing gloss black and Sebring Silver. First, I will be doing the black pieces. These are the pieces to be painted black:
A-pillars
Floor/door sills
Hatch and backseat speaker panels
Lower center console
I prepped the surface by sanding it with 60 grit sandpaper. I wiped clean with rubbing alcohol then sprayed 2 coats of Bullydog Plastic Adhesive Promotoer. I let that dry for about an hour then I used Duplicolor High Build Primer. I used quite a few coats of this to allow for sanding. I sanded with 120, 220, 400, and 800 grit. Is this enough? The problem I kept running in with with my other paint selections was seeing many, many tiny little impurities in the surface. They were all unsandable paints, so I had to deal with that look. Here are my questions (finally!)
- Should I continue sanding up to 1000 and 1500 or should I stop at 800 and just wetsand the new paint?
-How many coats should I put on? There is a hardener with the paint so I will NOT be using a clear coat
-How long should I let the auto paint dry before attempting to wetsand? How high of grit should I wetsand to? I have 1000, 1500 and 2000 available.
-Should I go ahead and buy a clearcoat even though it is a high gloss finish with a hardener? I imagine it won't get treated to roughly, but is the extra $40 worth it?
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I really don't understand you're reasoning behind not wanting to use clearcoat. What kind of paint are you using that you say has a hardener?
Are you sure it's not a reducer. Is the base coat paint or single stage lacquer that you're using. If it's base coat then it needs to have a clear coat over it for gloss, protection and UV resistance. Otherwise the paint is going to fade real fast.
Are you sure it's not a reducer. Is the base coat paint or single stage lacquer that you're using. If it's base coat then it needs to have a clear coat over it for gloss, protection and UV resistance. Otherwise the paint is going to fade real fast.
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all those cars that you see at the car show with the real deep wet look....all clearcoated. You can get a decent shine with just a uro enamel but will not get the same results as if you were to use clear.
When I normally paint plastic with texture I will sand it with 180 and then 320 to get rid of all 180 sand scratches. From here I will spray me adhesion promoter and then prime with a high build primer. I think if you wetsand the primer with nothing more aggressive than 400 and finish up with 6-800 you wont have any sanding scratches that show up in your base coat. It sounds like you are using a grit too aggressive for your primer that you arent getting out when you are doing a final sand with 800. Just dont go beyond 800...give the base color something to hold on to. As far as your base coat goes if it is a black without any metallic or pearl you can spray 2-3 coats till its completely covered and then come back with 6-800 grit and wetsand the pieces till they are all smooth. As far as the silver you can do the same but you will have to come back with on last coat after wetsanding. Usually wait about 4 - 6 hours before you wetsand the base coat but that is dependant on your product and how hot it is. After wetsanding the black you can go straight to clear. If need be wait 24 hours and then proceed to wetsand and buff out each piece. This is the process to achieve that real deep wet look you are going for.
When I normally paint plastic with texture I will sand it with 180 and then 320 to get rid of all 180 sand scratches. From here I will spray me adhesion promoter and then prime with a high build primer. I think if you wetsand the primer with nothing more aggressive than 400 and finish up with 6-800 you wont have any sanding scratches that show up in your base coat. It sounds like you are using a grit too aggressive for your primer that you arent getting out when you are doing a final sand with 800. Just dont go beyond 800...give the base color something to hold on to. As far as your base coat goes if it is a black without any metallic or pearl you can spray 2-3 coats till its completely covered and then come back with 6-800 grit and wetsand the pieces till they are all smooth. As far as the silver you can do the same but you will have to come back with on last coat after wetsanding. Usually wait about 4 - 6 hours before you wetsand the base coat but that is dependant on your product and how hot it is. After wetsanding the black you can go straight to clear. If need be wait 24 hours and then proceed to wetsand and buff out each piece. This is the process to achieve that real deep wet look you are going for.
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The paint is Dupont Nason Ful-Cryl II Acrylic Enamel. The other can that came with it is Dupont Nason Ful-Cryl Cat II 483-11 Acrylic Enamel Catalyst. I have no idea what that means, but the guys at the shop told me I would not need a clear coat. I am guessing from your replies, though I may not need it, I will definately want it, correct?
If so, how many coats of black should I put on and how long should I wait between coats and then before wetsanding? What grit steps should I take when wetsanding? 800, 1000, 1500, 2000? Skip a step or two?
Once I am done wetsanding the black, how many coats of clear should I put on? Time between coats and final wetsand? Should I follow the same steps for wetsanding as for the black?
If so, how many coats of black should I put on and how long should I wait between coats and then before wetsanding? What grit steps should I take when wetsanding? 800, 1000, 1500, 2000? Skip a step or two?
Once I am done wetsanding the black, how many coats of clear should I put on? Time between coats and final wetsand? Should I follow the same steps for wetsanding as for the black?
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I really would not use a single stage paint on interior pieces.
1) Single stages fade if left in the sun, the is no UV protection.
2) They scratch easier.
There is a "Sticky" under the Appearance Hall of Fame that I wrote up a few months back on interior painting. Check it out, it will answer your questions and give you a step by step process.
1) Single stages fade if left in the sun, the is no UV protection.
2) They scratch easier.
There is a "Sticky" under the Appearance Hall of Fame that I wrote up a few months back on interior painting. Check it out, it will answer your questions and give you a step by step process.