Has anybody ever polished a throttle body? (outside)
06-27-2008, 12:47 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Has anybody ever polished a throttle body? (outside) So... The wife got me a Dremel tool for Father's Day... Has anybody here ever polished the outside of a throttle body? I'm thinking about doing this to my truck when I port it, or before I port it... I'm also thinking about doing it to my alternator... (on the trucks, it is on top)... Any tips?
06-27-2008, 01:21 PM
#4
I polished mine and turned out very nice. It took a long time to get right but was well worth it IMO. I started out by grinding all the casting marks off, then sanded it with a "course" wheel, then moved to a medium, then a fine. After I was fairly satisfied I sanded the whole thing by hand with 1000 then 1500 grit paper. After that I used a polishing bit on it with mothers awsome billet polish. It took 8 or so hours to do it all but it turned out nice.
It looks way better in person than in the pics.
I have since replaced it with a FAST 78mm TB if anybody just wants to buy this one and save the time of doing yours....PM me!!! $75
It looks way better in person than in the pics.
I have since replaced it with a FAST 78mm TB if anybody just wants to buy this one and save the time of doing yours....PM me!!! $75
06-27-2008, 04:29 PM
#8
i polished the idle air....
it has not rusted on me in about 4 months but i do put mothers aluminum polish about once a month when i detail my engine. o and the lil dremmel sanding spongy things are the ****..even tho they don't last at all it gets all the corners nicely. i went though a pack for 4-5 bucks that come with 2 sponges.
it has not rusted on me in about 4 months but i do put mothers aluminum polish about once a month when i detail my engine. o and the lil dremmel sanding spongy things are the ****..even tho they don't last at all it gets all the corners nicely. i went though a pack for 4-5 bucks that come with 2 sponges.
06-28-2008, 04:28 PM
#11
You boys have a bit of work to do
show polishing is a very specific process, takes some time, some money figuring out the best materials, and a TON of practive to get the right results.
here's some of my stuff.
ported and polished MAF
stripped and polished speed inc fuel rails
stripped and polished AMW catch can and bolts. the bracket is not polished, its chrome powdercoated actually..
ported and polished stock throttle body. if you are going to polish something, use the right methods to get into the hard spots
this is the time consuming side, take a variety of methods to get it done..
I will be a sponsor within a week, just waiting for my website to be built. then I can really post up my powdcoating and polishing work for you guys, that's just some examples to help you guys guage results.
97sst--you left a lot of visible flaws in the metal that you need to remove well before you get into any of the higher grits. I get everything where i want it, go up to 400 grit wet, and then from there i move onto my wheels and compunds. you can do it by hand certainly by going in steps and then finishing with a GOOD polish..such as mothers billet, not the regular mothers which is half the cost for a reason IMO.
if you are going to go by hand, removed the factory casting marks with maybe 120 at most. you don't want to dig into the casting alot, the deeper you dig and have to fix, the more you can find imperfections in the casting that will create nightmares as you move forward. then get everything with solid to 220 wet, then 400 wet. this will take forever but the right way is then wet set 600,800,1000,1200,1500, and 2000. with each new grit i'd cross sand it so you can see you are for sure totally removing the previous grits scratches. after 2000 wet, then hit it with the mothers billet. Also key to this method is using good sandpaper. if you buy cheap **** off the internet it will wear out almost instantly and not put its grit into the metal worth a fart, your end results will be smooth but DULL. any wet sanding i do on parts i use 3M paper..
on a TB you'll never get the tough areas around the sensor very nice and you'll be doing the above method for 2 days and your hand will want to fall off but you can get nice results.
or, you do it like i do and its not quite as labor intensive
show polishing is a very specific process, takes some time, some money figuring out the best materials, and a TON of practive to get the right results.
here's some of my stuff.
ported and polished MAF
stripped and polished speed inc fuel rails
stripped and polished AMW catch can and bolts. the bracket is not polished, its chrome powdercoated actually..
ported and polished stock throttle body. if you are going to polish something, use the right methods to get into the hard spots
this is the time consuming side, take a variety of methods to get it done..
I will be a sponsor within a week, just waiting for my website to be built. then I can really post up my powdcoating and polishing work for you guys, that's just some examples to help you guys guage results.
97sst--you left a lot of visible flaws in the metal that you need to remove well before you get into any of the higher grits. I get everything where i want it, go up to 400 grit wet, and then from there i move onto my wheels and compunds. you can do it by hand certainly by going in steps and then finishing with a GOOD polish..such as mothers billet, not the regular mothers which is half the cost for a reason IMO.
if you are going to go by hand, removed the factory casting marks with maybe 120 at most. you don't want to dig into the casting alot, the deeper you dig and have to fix, the more you can find imperfections in the casting that will create nightmares as you move forward. then get everything with solid to 220 wet, then 400 wet. this will take forever but the right way is then wet set 600,800,1000,1200,1500, and 2000. with each new grit i'd cross sand it so you can see you are for sure totally removing the previous grits scratches. after 2000 wet, then hit it with the mothers billet. Also key to this method is using good sandpaper. if you buy cheap **** off the internet it will wear out almost instantly and not put its grit into the metal worth a fart, your end results will be smooth but DULL. any wet sanding i do on parts i use 3M paper..
on a TB you'll never get the tough areas around the sensor very nice and you'll be doing the above method for 2 days and your hand will want to fall off but you can get nice results.
or, you do it like i do and its not quite as labor intensive
06-28-2008, 05:07 PM
#12
Launching!
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heres mine a quick job, but i didnt notice about the table vice making the marks on it where it was holding it, use those two little block one buffs and one shines it
06-29-2008, 12:54 AM
#18
ok good. reflective chrome would go to hell for sure over time, gotta have the clear on that
here's a little powder **** for you from this weekend...
valve cover is ralley silver with super gloss clear.
coil bracket is argent silver base with translucent grape topcoat
coil packs are ralley silver with super gloss clear(yes I can powdercoat plastic)
and here's a stock LS1 intake i did tonite to test my method before attacking my LS6 tomorrow. this is just gloss black, nothing special
here's a little powder **** for you from this weekend...
valve cover is ralley silver with super gloss clear.
coil bracket is argent silver base with translucent grape topcoat
coil packs are ralley silver with super gloss clear(yes I can powdercoat plastic)
and here's a stock LS1 intake i did tonite to test my method before attacking my LS6 tomorrow. this is just gloss black, nothing special
06-29-2008, 02:12 AM
#20
what do you mean same procedure as for polymer? as in same procedure as for metal?
there are some differences between metal and a plastic intake, mostly in how the powder is applied, takes a little work. knowing how much powder to use so you don't use to little or two much and end up with orange peel seems to be more important with plastic than metal for example.
so much cool stuff you can do with powder. i'd powdercoat my house if i could lol.
there are some differences between metal and a plastic intake, mostly in how the powder is applied, takes a little work. knowing how much powder to use so you don't use to little or two much and end up with orange peel seems to be more important with plastic than metal for example.
so much cool stuff you can do with powder. i'd powdercoat my house if i could lol.