discussion on broken 4l60e tailshaft housings...
#1
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discussion on broken 4l60e tailshaft housings...
ive broken three of these now and i really need to figure out what the hell is going on...here are the things i think might be possibly causing it...
1. i had my panhard mounted on the outside of the bracket that connects to the rear end...i did not notice this, i even sprayed the car and ran my 11 with it mounted incorrectly the panhard finally broke off being mounted on the outside of the bracket...i have since fixed this and welded it back together...
2. my car was equipped with 2.73's so i have a steel driveshaft...i have heard of others breaking housings at high speeds...i follow right in line with this...i have broken two doing about 140 mph topping out 3rd gear at around 6600-6700 rpm...the driveshaft almost hit the ground that time (i have no safety loop).
i never had any vibration at high speed when these were breaking...seems really strange to me. i figured if my ds was out of balance enough to do this it would have been pretty noticeable.
i am going to spray my car in the near future again and i would like some advice as to what i should do to try to make sure this doesnt happen again.
1. should i keep the steel driveshaft and get the balance checked? (i would like to avoid buying an $$$ driveshaft). i was thinking of getting a stock aluminum shaft but they seems to be pretty flimsy.
anyone else have any ideas or experiences with this kind of thing?
also...i broke all of these on motor...so car is only making ~400rw
1. i had my panhard mounted on the outside of the bracket that connects to the rear end...i did not notice this, i even sprayed the car and ran my 11 with it mounted incorrectly the panhard finally broke off being mounted on the outside of the bracket...i have since fixed this and welded it back together...
2. my car was equipped with 2.73's so i have a steel driveshaft...i have heard of others breaking housings at high speeds...i follow right in line with this...i have broken two doing about 140 mph topping out 3rd gear at around 6600-6700 rpm...the driveshaft almost hit the ground that time (i have no safety loop).
i never had any vibration at high speed when these were breaking...seems really strange to me. i figured if my ds was out of balance enough to do this it would have been pretty noticeable.
i am going to spray my car in the near future again and i would like some advice as to what i should do to try to make sure this doesnt happen again.
1. should i keep the steel driveshaft and get the balance checked? (i would like to avoid buying an $$$ driveshaft). i was thinking of getting a stock aluminum shaft but they seems to be pretty flimsy.
anyone else have any ideas or experiences with this kind of thing?
also...i broke all of these on motor...so car is only making ~400rw
#3
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Originally Posted by Chris99WS6PWTMET
What kind of torque arm are you using? Is it still tail shaft mounted or is it on the body?
i've been looking around for an aftermarket tq arm that takes the tq arm off the housing, but i dont think that has been my problem, and my duals would interfere with some like the spohn...i dont think my car makes enough power to break it like that...and since two broke at such a high rpm/mph i wouldnt image it would be that...
car has only seen low 1.9 sixties on nittos...
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i broke 3 of them,,broke one on the dyno with 273 gear and steel D/S,,,the another 2 times broke doing 160mph
after that i went with 373 gears and aluminum D/S and its all good now
i got stock susp
after that i went with 373 gears and aluminum D/S and its all good now
i got stock susp
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I guess that with maybe 4000+ lb-ft delivered* at the
axle, and a 5' arm, you're putting >800lb of "side" load
on that housing. Not counting shock load which is the
probable killer, or at least what starts the crack.
* 300lb-ft x (3.06:1 1st gear) x (1.8:1 STR) x (2.73 rear)
= 4511 lb-ft !!! (if the tires hold).
Makes the chassis-mounted TAs look more appealing all
of a sudden, now that I think about it. Though the floor
pan bosses might not like 800lb, at least you can spread
it into two, more forgiving and less critical pieces.
Now, look at that same 4000lb-ft applied to the sheet
metal arm where it bolts to the pumpkin, with only a few
inch moment arm - >15000lb shear on those two bolts
top & bottom, and the 1/4" of mild steel that "keeps"
them (or, seen the pix, doesn't)? Yeeee!!!
Now that's "value engineering".
axle, and a 5' arm, you're putting >800lb of "side" load
on that housing. Not counting shock load which is the
probable killer, or at least what starts the crack.
* 300lb-ft x (3.06:1 1st gear) x (1.8:1 STR) x (2.73 rear)
= 4511 lb-ft !!! (if the tires hold).
Makes the chassis-mounted TAs look more appealing all
of a sudden, now that I think about it. Though the floor
pan bosses might not like 800lb, at least you can spread
it into two, more forgiving and less critical pieces.
Now, look at that same 4000lb-ft applied to the sheet
metal arm where it bolts to the pumpkin, with only a few
inch moment arm - >15000lb shear on those two bolts
top & bottom, and the 1/4" of mild steel that "keeps"
them (or, seen the pix, doesn't)? Yeeee!!!
Now that's "value engineering".
#6
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I guess that with maybe 4000+ lb-ft delivered* at the
axle, and a 5' arm, you're putting >800lb of "side" load
on that housing. Not counting shock load which is the
probable killer, or at least what starts the crack.
* 300lb-ft x (3.06:1 1st gear) x (1.8:1 STR) x (2.73 rear)
= 4511 lb-ft !!! (if the tires hold).
Makes the chassis-mounted TAs look more appealing all
of a sudden, now that I think about it. Though the floor
pan bosses might not like 800lb, at least you can spread
it into two, more forgiving and less critical pieces.
Now, look at that same 4000lb-ft applied to the sheet
metal arm where it bolts to the pumpkin, with only a few
inch moment arm - >15000lb shear on those two bolts
top & bottom, and the 1/4" of mild steel that "keeps"
them (or, seen the pix, doesn't)? Yeeee!!!
Now that's "value engineering".
axle, and a 5' arm, you're putting >800lb of "side" load
on that housing. Not counting shock load which is the
probable killer, or at least what starts the crack.
* 300lb-ft x (3.06:1 1st gear) x (1.8:1 STR) x (2.73 rear)
= 4511 lb-ft !!! (if the tires hold).
Makes the chassis-mounted TAs look more appealing all
of a sudden, now that I think about it. Though the floor
pan bosses might not like 800lb, at least you can spread
it into two, more forgiving and less critical pieces.
Now, look at that same 4000lb-ft applied to the sheet
metal arm where it bolts to the pumpkin, with only a few
inch moment arm - >15000lb shear on those two bolts
top & bottom, and the 1/4" of mild steel that "keeps"
them (or, seen the pix, doesn't)? Yeeee!!!
Now that's "value engineering".
#7
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It's the steel driveshaft.
I had this happen too, and I think my conclusion was that it's not (as well) balanced for high speeds as the aluminum one is, OR there there is a vibration problem with them up high.
I would suggest getting a beefy custom one.
I had this happen too, and I think my conclusion was that it's not (as well) balanced for high speeds as the aluminum one is, OR there there is a vibration problem with them up high.
I would suggest getting a beefy custom one.
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#9
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
http://www.converter.cc/conversion_kits.htm
Look at the picture right below the black car launching.
Look at the picture right below the black car launching.
yah i know about the yank crossmember...like i said i dont think im breaking the housings because of the tq arm...
i will look into getting the tq arm off the housing later, i like that crossmember but it seems pricey for what it is...
it should be a nice sturdy combo with just a cheap edelbrock tq arm and that crossmember...
there is a mac tq arm supposedly that mounts in the tranny tunnel and has a ds loop for ~200 bucks...i cant find out where to buy one though...
#10