How do you remove the trans with solid mounts
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From: Summerville, SC
How do you remove the trans with solid mounts HOW THE HELL DO YOU DO IT?!?!
The last time I took the trans out I didn't have solid mounts and it was a breeze. I completely forgot about them until the trans wouldn't come down enough to get the other bolts out. I have the two bottom ones out and three others. I think there are three more IIRC. Please tell me there is another way besides dropping the k member. Does anyone have pics of how they did this? I have spohn soild mounts and I'm trying to get my 4l60e out. Any guidance would be appreciated.
The last time I took the trans out I didn't have solid mounts and it was a breeze. I completely forgot about them until the trans wouldn't come down enough to get the other bolts out. I have the two bottom ones out and three others. I think there are three more IIRC. Please tell me there is another way besides dropping the k member. Does anyone have pics of how they did this? I have spohn soild mounts and I'm trying to get my 4l60e out. Any guidance would be appreciated.
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I've got the Spohn solid mounts as well and I've had my TH350 out a couple times with them. It's a little easier to get the Th350 out since it only uses five of the bolts and since my car has a carb and I've cut the cowl. I had to drill a hole in the side of the trans tunnel to get to one of them though
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I've got the Spohn solid mounts as well and I've had my TH350 out a couple times with them. It's a little easier to get the Th350 out since it only uses five of the bolts and since my car has a carb and I've cut the cowl. I had to drill a hole in the side of the trans tunnel to get to one of them though
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From: Summerville, SC
The way the motor mounts are prevent it from pivoting. There is a large platform and its bolted straight to the motor. There are 4 bolts to the engine and the k member IIRC, with a squarish platform, not ideal. Plus having the engine and trans held in place by one bolt with me on the ground doesn't sound too fun if something goes wrong.
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extensions and a swivel and you can get to all but the top top bolt, and you can take the intake off to get that one if you dont want to mess with the k member and motor mounts.
good luck.
good luck.
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From: Summerville, SC
I got tired of the dash removal so I tried loosening the k member bolts and got it out. The hardest one to get out was the 2nd from the bottom on the drivers side. I took my hammer and beat the hell out of the tunnel. I won't be able to try and put it back in until sunday, so we will see how that works out. It was a pain in the *** to get them out with the swivel hitting the tunnel once it was drawn out far enough.
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From: Summerville, SC
I always just dropped the k-member. Doesn't take too much effort, I don't see why you were so against it. Unbolt the two bottom bolts on the front shocks. unbolt either the top or bottom castle nut on the spindle, and then back the k-member bolts until there are just a few threads in and let it dangle. the fuel lines/radiator lines have enough play in them that they dont need to be disconnected. and getting the top bolts are really easy.
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From: Summerville, SC
BTW, it wasn't a total waste of time. I had to drill a hole for the driver side second bolt from the bottom.
What are you guys doing for the bottom support? I know on my th400 to 454 in my old Chevelle I had two bars that went from the bottom on the trans to the block.
What are you guys doing for the bottom support? I know on my th400 to 454 in my old Chevelle I had two bars that went from the bottom on the trans to the block.
