For a yank 3600ss, how many of yall have had to shim the t/c for right spacing?

 

I wouldn't go off of what someone says online. Just put it in and measure it. Who knows if the machine cut the mounts to short or something that day.

I go for at least 1/8'' but no more than 1/4''.

 

He's right!

But if you do shim it, try to use one shim/washer per bolt, not a stack of washers. I did that and it didn't work out well. I was pulling the trans to replace the pump rotor as a result.

Measure a bunch of times and when you tighten the TC bolts, tighten each bolt a few turns then move to the next and so on. It'll take a while, helps to have a helper turn the balancer bolt. If you don't so this the TC will probably be drawn in crooked and boom!

 

My SS4k and SFI flexplate had about .30 spacing. So I ordered the shim kit from jegs to correct it. Also I noticed that the supplied bolts won't engage very far with a thick flexplate and an extra spacer. So I bought longer 8.8 metric bolts. The size is M10 with a 1.50 thread pitch. I bought them in 20mm length. They should be fully seated into the converter threads.

 

so will the bolts that the yank came with and an un-tounched flexplate and trans it should measure and line up fine right?

 

The way I see it no. It seems the new flexplate I have is actually a little taller then stock. So with a stock flexplate I think my gap would have been slightly more then .30. My new flexplate is about twice as thick as stock and I prolly wouldnt use Yanks bolt for that either, just to be safe. I want to have as many threads as possible engaged into the converter feet. The bolt supplied is Grade 8.8 M10X1.50X12mm (or so on the length). I bought the exact same only in 20mm length, but you can get 15mm also. The only way I would use Yanks bolts as a direct fit for an application would be a stock thickness flexplate with no shims. I guess I may be being paranoid but it is gonna be spinning 6K RPMs, so I dont ever mind purchasing $2 worth of bolts to ensure its installed properly.

 

use a 3/16 drill bit that will tell you. That is what i have always used. and if it is to much shim it.

 

CNCs dont make mistakes Operators do though

 

got it installed with the bolts it came with. the 4l60 had never been out and was a BITCH. i had a 3ft long crow bar prying for an hour

 

Lube the dowels with anti-seize and lube the converter hub with lithium grease.

 

the best way to measure is to get a box of drill bits and see which one you can stick in there