? About Tranny Temps!
01-27-2010, 08:22 AM
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? About Tranny Temps! Ok 2 questions. First off my setup is a built 4L60E in a 2002 camaro with what was a TCI 3500 stall and now a PTC 4000 stall. Everything is fresh and new and it has a cooler on it. I installed a tranny temp gauge because i wanting to keep an eye on my investment. Well I went with the easy way and put the sensor in the pressure port instead on the pan so i know its about 15 degrees off from what ive read on here. But it is maxing out my gauge(shortsweep) while driving at 250+ degrees!
And it was 40 degrees outside.
Thats seems really high to me but what should it be? I could not find anything in a search....
2. I just ordered a GM deep tranny pan PN 24229658. Should i see drop in tempature with this or am i wasting my $/time? Is there any different fluild i can try to reduce temps like tractor/trans hydrolic fluid etc?
And it was 40 degrees outside.Thats seems really high to me but what should it be? I could not find anything in a search....
2. I just ordered a GM deep tranny pan PN 24229658. Should i see drop in tempature with this or am i wasting my $/time? Is there any different fluild i can try to reduce temps like tractor/trans hydrolic fluid etc?
01-27-2010, 09:10 AM
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yeh that seems high for just driving around maybe your gauge is reading wrong..it might get that high from wot runs or at the track. is your cooler hooked up right and were is it mounted. the pan should help too.
01-27-2010, 09:23 AM
#3
That does seem a litle high I would use one of the digital laser pointer guages to verify it at the pan. Ifs it correct then i would verify cooler flow . Also how close to the exhaust is the presure port. Actually I would verify cooler flow first. Then the guage with pointer.
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01-27-2010, 10:15 AM
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thanks guys yeah thats the first thing im going to check today if i got the cooler hooked up right. its mounted on front of the radiator. i have long tubes with y-pipe so should be the same as everyone else. i never though of the laser pointer thing. good idea. and when i say i say just crusing i meant in town at 40mph stop and go so the converter never really locked up. it was stalling all the time.
Last edited by 99corvette; 01-28-2010 at 08:40 AM.
01-27-2010, 11:16 AM
#6
i run around 165 on warm days with my 4l80e-it has the temp sensor in the pan, in the wiring harness i guess-i read the temp on the Compushift screen, seems to be pretty accurate based on what the room temp is-i use a B & M trans cooler mounted under the front of the car
01-27-2010, 11:24 AM
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01-27-2010, 05:27 PM
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yeah im gonna check the cooler, then im gonna get my my tuner and get him to retune because it because he hasnt yet for the new stall. also might weld a nut to the pan that will fit the sender and use it as a drain plug. kill 2 birds with one stone i guess. wow i cant believe yall are seeing that low of temps. maybe its just the PP
01-27-2010, 06:04 PM
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Where you have your temp sensor now is fine. I ran mine in the same spot and it was accurate. Your high tranny temp is due to the lockup not engaging at lower speeds. If you run around town with a higher stall and the converter is not locking up, you will get the tranny extremely hot. Mine would usually set at around 180 degrees running around town on hot days. This was with a Fuddle 4000 stall.
01-27-2010, 06:08 PM
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yeah im gonna check the cooler, then im gonna get my my tuner and get him to retune because it because he hasnt yet for the new stall. also might weld a nut to the pan that will fit the sender and use it as a drain plug. kill 2 birds with one stone i guess. wow i cant believe yall are seeing that low of temps. maybe its just the PP
01-27-2010, 06:26 PM
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Where you have your temp sensor now is fine. I ran mine in the same spot and it was accurate. Your high tranny temp is due to the lockup not engaging at lower speeds. If you run around town with a higher stall and the converter is not locking up, you will get the tranny extremely hot. Mine would usually set at around 180 degrees running around town on hot days. This was with a Fuddle 4000 stall.
01-27-2010, 06:27 PM
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i welded in a second nut/plug for a seperate drain bc I didnt want to wear the sending unit's threads out by using it as a drain plug. I recently upped my cooler size and eliminated the factory radiator from the loop and Im seeing like a max of 120-140 pan temps on 70 degree days
01-28-2010, 08:39 AM
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alright well i just for checked the obvious today and the cooler is hooked up right. even unhooked it to make sure and that it was flowing good. It was fine so i know the radiator is clogging up and i dont have any kinked lines.
I really think it just where the sending unit it. So im gonna go ahead and install deeper pan and put the sending unit in it.
I really think it just where the sending unit it. So im gonna go ahead and install deeper pan and put the sending unit in it.
01-28-2010, 09:32 AM
#16
http://www.digi-panel.com/digidevicesweb/trannyoil.htm
normal pan temp's are 150-200F and can vary outside of that a decent bit depending on ambient temps.
you want to keep trans fluid < 250F at all times if possible, above that and the fluid life shortens almost exponentially because of oxidation... which isn't that big a deal as long as you change the fluid.
i have a aftermarket deep pan that holds an extra 1.5 qt on my 2003 jeep gc, and i have the sender in the pan which goes to a cyberdyne temp gauge. in summer the trans pan temp will average 150-180F when hot around town, in winter highway driving when it's < 32F outside the pan temp holds at 95-100F.
do not use tractor fluid, while i don't know the specs on it it will probably f' up the shifting. Temperature is the concern, and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler, and any oil will fail if overheated.
i'd also make sure you're gauge is accurate and something isn't wired wrong, if possible test the gauge and sender on a bench with 100-150-200F water. but when the car is cold and if the gauge responds in a practical believable manner as you drive for the first 10 or so miles then i would believe the readings.
I was never a fan of the analog short-sweep style temp gauges, if you're thinking about adding a second sender to measure trans pan temp, check out cyberdyne gauges, jegs and summit has them. And if you're current gauge has an electrical sender, you could just buy a second sending unit and install it in the pan, then use a simple electrical switch to switch between sending units and use the 1 temp gauge, that's what i do with my cyberdyne- 1 sender in the oil pan and one on the drain plug of the M6 trans.
normal pan temp's are 150-200F and can vary outside of that a decent bit depending on ambient temps.
you want to keep trans fluid < 250F at all times if possible, above that and the fluid life shortens almost exponentially because of oxidation... which isn't that big a deal as long as you change the fluid.
i have a aftermarket deep pan that holds an extra 1.5 qt on my 2003 jeep gc, and i have the sender in the pan which goes to a cyberdyne temp gauge. in summer the trans pan temp will average 150-180F when hot around town, in winter highway driving when it's < 32F outside the pan temp holds at 95-100F.
do not use tractor fluid, while i don't know the specs on it it will probably f' up the shifting. Temperature is the concern, and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler, and any oil will fail if overheated.
i'd also make sure you're gauge is accurate and something isn't wired wrong, if possible test the gauge and sender on a bench with 100-150-200F water. but when the car is cold and if the gauge responds in a practical believable manner as you drive for the first 10 or so miles then i would believe the readings.
I was never a fan of the analog short-sweep style temp gauges, if you're thinking about adding a second sender to measure trans pan temp, check out cyberdyne gauges, jegs and summit has them. And if you're current gauge has an electrical sender, you could just buy a second sending unit and install it in the pan, then use a simple electrical switch to switch between sending units and use the 1 temp gauge, that's what i do with my cyberdyne- 1 sender in the oil pan and one on the drain plug of the M6 trans.
01-28-2010, 04:38 PM
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http://www.digi-panel.com/digidevicesweb/trannyoil.htm
normal pan temp's are 150-200F and can vary outside of that a decent bit depending on ambient temps.
you want to keep trans fluid < 250F at all times if possible, above that and the fluid life shortens almost exponentially because of oxidation... which isn't that big a deal as long as you change the fluid.
i have a aftermarket deep pan that holds an extra 1.5 qt on my 2003 jeep gc, and i have the sender in the pan which goes to a cyberdyne temp gauge. in summer the trans pan temp will average 150-180F when hot around town, in winter highway driving when it's < 32F outside the pan temp holds at 95-100F.
do not use tractor fluid, while i don't know the specs on it it will probably f' up the shifting. Temperature is the concern, and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler, and any oil will fail if overheated.
i'd also make sure you're gauge is accurate and something isn't wired wrong, if possible test the gauge and sender on a bench with 100-150-200F water. but when the car is cold and if the gauge responds in a practical believable manner as you drive for the first 10 or so miles then i would believe the readings.
I was never a fan of the analog short-sweep style temp gauges, if you're thinking about adding a second sender to measure trans pan temp, check out cyberdyne gauges, jegs and summit has them. And if you're current gauge has an electrical sender, you could just buy a second sending unit and install it in the pan, then use a simple electrical switch to switch between sending units and use the 1 temp gauge, that's what i do with my cyberdyne- 1 sender in the oil pan and one on the drain plug of the M6 trans.
normal pan temp's are 150-200F and can vary outside of that a decent bit depending on ambient temps.
you want to keep trans fluid < 250F at all times if possible, above that and the fluid life shortens almost exponentially because of oxidation... which isn't that big a deal as long as you change the fluid.
i have a aftermarket deep pan that holds an extra 1.5 qt on my 2003 jeep gc, and i have the sender in the pan which goes to a cyberdyne temp gauge. in summer the trans pan temp will average 150-180F when hot around town, in winter highway driving when it's < 32F outside the pan temp holds at 95-100F.
do not use tractor fluid, while i don't know the specs on it it will probably f' up the shifting. Temperature is the concern, and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler, and any oil will fail if overheated.
i'd also make sure you're gauge is accurate and something isn't wired wrong, if possible test the gauge and sender on a bench with 100-150-200F water. but when the car is cold and if the gauge responds in a practical believable manner as you drive for the first 10 or so miles then i would believe the readings.
I was never a fan of the analog short-sweep style temp gauges, if you're thinking about adding a second sender to measure trans pan temp, check out cyberdyne gauges, jegs and summit has them. And if you're current gauge has an electrical sender, you could just buy a second sending unit and install it in the pan, then use a simple electrical switch to switch between sending units and use the 1 temp gauge, that's what i do with my cyberdyne- 1 sender in the oil pan and one on the drain plug of the M6 trans.
01-29-2010, 05:22 PM
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Heck no, can tap the pan to thin. And im not good at brazing so i went and bought a galvanized(all i could find) nut that fits the send, and im gonna weld it to the pan and just screw the sender in it with some Teflon tape. Weld inside and out and hope it doesnt leak.
01-29-2010, 06:23 PM
#20
http://www.digi-panel.com/digidevicesweb/trannyoil.htm
normal pan temp's are 150-200F and can vary outside of that a decent bit depending on ambient temps.
you want to keep trans fluid < 250F at all times if possible, above that and the fluid life shortens almost exponentially because of oxidation... which isn't that big a deal as long as you change the fluid.
i have a aftermarket deep pan that holds an extra 1.5 qt on my 2003 jeep gc, and i have the sender in the pan which goes to a cyberdyne temp gauge. in summer the trans pan temp will average 150-180F when hot around town, in winter highway driving when it's < 32F outside the pan temp holds at 95-100F.
do not use tractor fluid, while i don't know the specs on it it will probably f' up the shifting. Temperature is the concern, and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler, and any oil will fail if overheated.
i'd also make sure you're gauge is accurate and something isn't wired wrong, if possible test the gauge and sender on a bench with 100-150-200F water. but when the car is cold and if the gauge responds in a practical believable manner as you drive for the first 10 or so miles then i would believe the readings.
I was never a fan of the analog short-sweep style temp gauges, if you're thinking about adding a second sender to measure trans pan temp, check out cyberdyne gauges, jegs and summit has them. And if you're current gauge has an electrical sender, you could just buy a second sending unit and install it in the pan, then use a simple electrical switch to switch between sending units and use the 1 temp gauge, that's what i do with my cyberdyne- 1 sender in the oil pan and one on the drain plug of the M6 trans.
normal pan temp's are 150-200F and can vary outside of that a decent bit depending on ambient temps.
you want to keep trans fluid < 250F at all times if possible, above that and the fluid life shortens almost exponentially because of oxidation... which isn't that big a deal as long as you change the fluid.
i have a aftermarket deep pan that holds an extra 1.5 qt on my 2003 jeep gc, and i have the sender in the pan which goes to a cyberdyne temp gauge. in summer the trans pan temp will average 150-180F when hot around town, in winter highway driving when it's < 32F outside the pan temp holds at 95-100F.
do not use tractor fluid, while i don't know the specs on it it will probably f' up the shifting. Temperature is the concern, and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler, and any oil will fail if overheated.
i'd also make sure you're gauge is accurate and something isn't wired wrong, if possible test the gauge and sender on a bench with 100-150-200F water. but when the car is cold and if the gauge responds in a practical believable manner as you drive for the first 10 or so miles then i would believe the readings.
I was never a fan of the analog short-sweep style temp gauges, if you're thinking about adding a second sender to measure trans pan temp, check out cyberdyne gauges, jegs and summit has them. And if you're current gauge has an electrical sender, you could just buy a second sending unit and install it in the pan, then use a simple electrical switch to switch between sending units and use the 1 temp gauge, that's what i do with my cyberdyne- 1 sender in the oil pan and one on the drain plug of the M6 trans.
Most of what you stated was correct except this "and no oil is going to magically cause it to run cooler". A synthetic atf will, depending on which one is used. A syn atf will also take higher temps in most cases as the flash points are much higher than that of petrol atf. Granted an auxillary cooler is the best approach to addressing a overheating trans, all else being equal, but a syn atf is an integral piece of that puzzle as it resists oxidation and evaporation many times better than of a conventional and reduces temps in most cases. As far as synthetics go, out of every system in the car that they can be utilized, the automatic transmission will see the biggest benefit as heat is the transmissions number one enemy.