Will be ordering my 400 as soon as I figure out what brake to go with. I'm no weekend bracket racer so getting the quickest release brake that costs the most isn't important here.

I'm looking for a quality brake with a good reputation for a nitrous LS1 car.

 

alot of people use the HIpster. Ive never been able to find alot about it, but it is popular. I have one and the short time I've been using it, it seems to release very quick. I cut a 0.07 light the other day using it and this was after 4 months of no racing.

 

Griner is the fastest/most consistent that I've seen.

 

I believe those are the most expensive ones too. Not looking to drop a lot on this.

 

I use hipsters and have never had a problem.They are consistent and release real fast.They are about 300.00. griners are great if you run a pro tree and are pricey.Stay away from TCI or JW.

 

If on a budget, CKPerformance TB is very nice as well (probably the best one using the stock VB modified).

 

I'm new to the TH400 stuff in a 4th gen but we did a TH400 w/ a TCI reverse full manual w/ brake setup. I love it. One thing though about it and it may be about all th400's but ya have to arm the trans brake and push the button in neutral to engage reverse. I was told if you just put the car in reverse you could tear the trans up

 

we offer several brake options for the 400. All of our Transbrakes are dyno tested for release time and pressure. We have the fluid drive brake often refered to as a probrake and we have what we call our street brake as well. give us a call. we stock deep pans, billet clutch hubs,sprague drums,etc. Everything you would need to build a 400 to complete 400's ready to go!!!! 1-866-726-8358

Greg

 

I don't particularly like the hydraulics of the Th400 Transbrake. If the Int lugs get blown out of the case it brings the low band back on and locks the trans up (at speed).

 

I've ran BTE for years. Even back when I had the dragsters, work great.

http://bteracing.com/Detail.asp?sku=BTE4498

 

Usually the lugs blow out when line pressure spikes or if the stock snap ring is still in the inter clutch pack. For extra insurance put a thicker snap ring in and make sure your clearence is not sloppy.For really high hp cars you can machine a groove in the case and use a spiral snap ring.Problem solved for good.

 

I think that all tb trannys are like that.

 

If you have a "pro brake" then yes you must put trans in reverse or nuetral and hit trans brake button to engage reverse.If its not a pro brake just put trans in reverse and it will engage reverse.

 

I know.....just saying there are better (safer) hydraulic designs.

 

we carry the snap ring as well and are well aware of the case lugs. We also have a 4clutch pack and a 6clutch intermediate pack!!!!

Greg

 

Check this one out

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ct_Code=221505

 

The short answer to your question is Coan 22020.
Much more reliable solenoid (although it draws more amps than any other), quality springs, I think the original basic design is steve grinder's from 35 years ago that basically everyone has copied. Its very reliable, and they last forever. One of my employees has had one for over 10 years in a 9.80 3500lb car (with no freshen up ever).
Same story from several hundred of my own customers.
There's lots of better design valve bodys than this one...but this one works well.

 

Hard to believe they still use those gold plated springs. They always break and end up in the pan-or worse. I started throwing those away 25 years ago.
Some may call that job security.

 

I've got to bring the parts to my trans guy. So I'd just have to order this, nothing else for the brake to be added?

http://www.coanracing.com/Catalog.asp?ProductDetail=717

 

hmmmm I didnt know this, I have a "pro tree" transbrake in mine. Now by the way you said that it seems, the car wont accually go in reverse unless you engage the brake and let off it.? Is that correct? Mine will go in reverse fine without touching the button