Sonnax Smart Shell used in 1000 HP 4L60E
#1
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Sonnax Smart Shell used in 1000 HP 4L60E
I know there are still doubts about exactly how strong the Sonnax Smart Shell is. So, here is something I just noticed...
While I am no fan of PATC (they seem arrogant and have a horrible website), they are now advertising a 4L60E built to handle 1000HP !! Before you get too excited, it is priced at $5800. They list all of the included parts and it includes the Sonnax Smart Shell and not The Beast.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4l60e.htm#Level 5
A big part of that price comes from the custom tight-ratio 6-pinion planetary ($1300) and a custom billet(?) input drum that can holder a larger 3/4 clutch pack.
Just information for whatever it might be worth.
Here is my thread on the Sonnax versus Beast sun shell comparison:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...art-shell.html
While I am no fan of PATC (they seem arrogant and have a horrible website), they are now advertising a 4L60E built to handle 1000HP !! Before you get too excited, it is priced at $5800. They list all of the included parts and it includes the Sonnax Smart Shell and not The Beast.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4l60e.htm#Level 5
A big part of that price comes from the custom tight-ratio 6-pinion planetary ($1300) and a custom billet(?) input drum that can holder a larger 3/4 clutch pack.
Just information for whatever it might be worth.
Here is my thread on the Sonnax versus Beast sun shell comparison:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...art-shell.html
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Personally I prefer to use the smartshell compared to the beast lately, due to the recent track record. i replace the sun gear shell in even my stock replacement builds and in the last few months i have noticed just after the chamfer on the beast it will crack the center will spin out. It seems to be more common in the 4x4 pickups especially, and even my supplier mentioned he is hearing the complaint more often. plus it reduces load on that captured bearing in the rear which is an undoubted weak point in the trans.
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I know there are still doubts about exactly how strong the Sonnax Smart Shell is. So, here is something I just noticed...
While I am no fan of PATC (they seem arrogant and have a horrible website), they are now advertising a 4L60E built to handle 1000HP !! Before you get too excited, it is priced at $5800. They list all of the included parts and it includes the Sonnax Smart Shell and not The Beast.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4l60e.htm#Level 5
A big part of that price comes from the custom tight-ratio 6-pinion planetary ($1300) and a custom billet(?) input drum that can holder a larger 3/4 clutch pack.
Just information for whatever it might be worth.
Here is my thread on the Sonnax versus Beast sun shell comparison:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...art-shell.html
While I am no fan of PATC (they seem arrogant and have a horrible website), they are now advertising a 4L60E built to handle 1000HP !! Before you get too excited, it is priced at $5800. They list all of the included parts and it includes the Sonnax Smart Shell and not The Beast.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4l60e.htm#Level 5
A big part of that price comes from the custom tight-ratio 6-pinion planetary ($1300) and a custom billet(?) input drum that can holder a larger 3/4 clutch pack.
Just information for whatever it might be worth.
Here is my thread on the Sonnax versus Beast sun shell comparison:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...art-shell.html
That "custom" input drum is the real deal
It takes 3 z-paks to fill 2 drums (21 clutches in each drum.....bastards cost me close to 400.00 and thats JUST the DRUM...u have press your own input shaft on.
It's really a treated stock drum, with the snap-ring retaining tabs machined off, and then it's drilled/tapped in the rear to hold a billet retainer instead of the snap ring. It will hold 9 thick steels and clutches, or 1-1/2 z-paks.
The weak point will still be where the input splines are, it's just sleeved like we do all of them. Important to use the correct front planetary for all clutch splines to contact. Should add well over 500.00 to the build considering most builders don't ever remove/replace the input shaft and if not done correctly....u WILL break the aluminium drum. There goes 400.00
Last edited by JUNK; 05-07-2012 at 05:40 AM.
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You sound full of doubt.....I know of a 1000hp c6z knocking on the 8sec door right now (9.06 @156) that until last year was running the 4l65e.....why did he upgrade? After a couple hundred passes the 3/4 pak went out and he drives it so much, he did not want to go into the trans every 6 months.
This was in fact a top-level RPM unit and is still doing duty somewhere I am sure.....
This was in fact a top-level RPM unit and is still doing duty somewhere I am sure.....
#9
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That "custom" input drum is the real deal
It takes 3 z-paks to fill 2 drums (21 clutches in each drum.....bastards cost me close to 400.00 and thats JUST the DRUM...u have press your own input shaft on.
It's really a treated stock drum, with the snap-ring retaining tabs machined off, and then it's drilled/tapped in the rear to hold a billet retainer instead of the snap ring. It will hold 9 thick steels and clutches, or 1-1/2 z-paks.
The weak point will still be where the input splines are, it's just sleeved like we do all of them. Important to use the correct front planetary for all clutch splines to contact. Should add well over 500.00 to the build considering most builders don't ever remove/replace the input shaft and if not done correctly....u WILL break the aluminium drum. There goes 400.00
It takes 3 z-paks to fill 2 drums (21 clutches in each drum.....bastards cost me close to 400.00 and thats JUST the DRUM...u have press your own input shaft on.
It's really a treated stock drum, with the snap-ring retaining tabs machined off, and then it's drilled/tapped in the rear to hold a billet retainer instead of the snap ring. It will hold 9 thick steels and clutches, or 1-1/2 z-paks.
The weak point will still be where the input splines are, it's just sleeved like we do all of them. Important to use the correct front planetary for all clutch splines to contact. Should add well over 500.00 to the build considering most builders don't ever remove/replace the input shaft and if not done correctly....u WILL break the aluminium drum. There goes 400.00
The trans I'm building now has most of those parts except for the input drum and input shaft; it is from a nearly-new 2010 core. I even have the close-ration 6-pinion planetary. I installed the Sonnax input drum reinforcement kit which is primarily a steel sleeve pressed into drum.
I have 4 different 3/4 clutch packs to experiment with. While I have the Z-Pack, I'm inclined to use 8x High Energy 0.062 frictions with .082 Kolene steels.
#10
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You sound full of doubt.....I know of a 1000hp c6z knocking on the 8sec door right now (9.06 @156) that until last year was running the 4l65e.....why did he upgrade? After a couple hundred passes the 3/4 pak went out and he drives it so much, he did not want to go into the trans every 6 months.
This was in fact a top-level RPM unit and is still doing duty somewhere I am sure.....
This was in fact a top-level RPM unit and is still doing duty somewhere I am sure.....
#11
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The "proper" trans weighs a shitload more and eats 3 tenths worth of power, AND costs an extra 10k to put into a vette........no bull.
#12
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lol the "proper" trans weighs about 30-40 pounds more, does NOT eat 3 tenths worth of power, that is a very broad statement, and very incorrect. I'd rather spend 10k once to have it put into a vette than spend 6k+ for a new transmission every 6 months or a year.
Just because a trans lived at that power for a period of time doesn't mean that trans can handle that power. A trans handling power means that trans can handle the power and will not break, not "can hold the power for awhile".
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It's never broken, only eaten clutches. Your lucky in that u don't have a torque tube to shorten and a frame to hack to fit the 4l80, it gets ugly in a vette, and quite expensive. In my world (200 passes and maybe 6kmi/yr) a built 4l65e is the only way to go, even in a 140k GM car. BTW, going to get u some dyno data from 60e to 80e swap, and u tell me what it's worth in the qtr.
#14
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It's never broken, only eaten clutches. Your lucky in that u don't have a torque tube to shorten and a frame to hack to fit the 4l80, it gets ugly in a vette, and quite expensive. In my world (200 passes and maybe 6kmi/yr) a built 4l65e is the only way to go, even in a 140k GM car. BTW, going to get u some dyno data from 60e to 80e swap, and u tell me what it's worth in the qtr.
As for your logic, if you're the kind of guy who enjoys tearing into his transmission once or twice a year and throwing a steady stream of money into it, far be it from me to persuade you otherwise.
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Wow, u really do have me all wrong, or u don't understand what it takes to put a 4l80 in a c6, or that mine has a aluminium chassis I am not willing to hack. If not for the custom fitment issues, the 80e would already be in the car
#16
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You also tell me that the 80e is not worth the effect it has on the 1/4 mile times, but again, you tell me you would have one if fitment wasn't an issue.
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Ok, it's clear to me u are ignorant of what it would take to upgrade a c5/6 to the 80e. Educate yourself, u might even be able to increase your lifetime earning potential. PM me for a "free" education
Last edited by JUNK; 05-09-2012 at 05:31 AM.