Rembuilt transmission 4l60e
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Oklahoma
Rembuilt transmission 4l60e I had my transmission rebuilt last weekend. Alto cluches new shift solenoids TransGo shift kit and a bunch of other things like o-rings gaskets and filter.
I put the transmission in ( after a nightmare of issues, from parts I bought from members that are liars). I put a brand new PTC converter in at the same time. I started the car to top off fluids and warm up, still on the jack stands. Before the thermostat opened, I noticed a puddle of transmission fluid on the ground. I watched in horror as the fluid dripped from the bell housing. I turned it off, after only runing for 10-15 minutes.
This morning I pulled the damn thing back out. I can't tell where the fluid came from. The converter was dry. The seal looked dry nothing looked wet. Just a puddle forming in the bell housing. I sure ( pretty sure) that the converter was seated. There was no more then a 1/4 inch between the converter and flex plate. Also, when I drained the converter this morning, I noticed what I think was aluminum shavings in the fluid. It only ran for 10-15 keep in mind. I flushed the lines and cooler before install. I'm just not sure WTF.
How do I check to make sure the pump is for 4l60e and not a 65e? My understanding is 1/8-3/16 clearence from converter before bolting to allow for swelling of the converter snout?
I'm stumped. The guy that built the transmission is at the damn lake so it will be Monday before he can look at it ( if he didn't scam me like other ******* selling items ).
Please help. Thanks in advance for your educated response.
I put the transmission in ( after a nightmare of issues, from parts I bought from members that are liars). I put a brand new PTC converter in at the same time. I started the car to top off fluids and warm up, still on the jack stands. Before the thermostat opened, I noticed a puddle of transmission fluid on the ground. I watched in horror as the fluid dripped from the bell housing. I turned it off, after only runing for 10-15 minutes.
This morning I pulled the damn thing back out. I can't tell where the fluid came from. The converter was dry. The seal looked dry nothing looked wet. Just a puddle forming in the bell housing. I sure ( pretty sure) that the converter was seated. There was no more then a 1/4 inch between the converter and flex plate. Also, when I drained the converter this morning, I noticed what I think was aluminum shavings in the fluid. It only ran for 10-15 keep in mind. I flushed the lines and cooler before install. I'm just not sure WTF.
How do I check to make sure the pump is for 4l60e and not a 65e? My understanding is 1/8-3/16 clearence from converter before bolting to allow for swelling of the converter snout?
I'm stumped. The guy that built the transmission is at the damn lake so it will be Monday before he can look at it ( if he didn't scam me like other ******* selling items ).
Please help. Thanks in advance for your educated response.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 318
Likes: 5
From: Oklahoma
There were no leaks when I took it out so the case better not be busted. Also, it didn't appear to have any fluid slung off the converter. The puddle leaked out of the bell housing and the seal seemed dry. I didn't see any fluid coming from the seal while it was running but I only looked up there for a minute before I shut it off in discussed. I'm really curious as to/
If you can install a 65e pump in a 60e and what would happen? I bought the pump (new) from a locall parts supplier, and there was some confusion on there part as to which one to give me.
Also what's the max clearence y'all run on converter to flex plate (fly wheel) maybe I didn't have the converter seated fully in the pump? If that's the case, then there would have been 1/4 inch to maybe 5/16 or 6/16. I didn have a way to actualy measure though. And besides, I've only had to shim one converter ever. It was for a 455 Pontiac nitrous motor to a 350 turbo and the Dynamic converter got shimmed with washers 1/8 of inch.
The fluid was not pouring out but it was a constant leak.
If you can install a 65e pump in a 60e and what would happen? I bought the pump (new) from a locall parts supplier, and there was some confusion on there part as to which one to give me.
Also what's the max clearence y'all run on converter to flex plate (fly wheel) maybe I didn't have the converter seated fully in the pump? If that's the case, then there would have been 1/4 inch to maybe 5/16 or 6/16. I didn have a way to actualy measure though. And besides, I've only had to shim one converter ever. It was for a 455 Pontiac nitrous motor to a 350 turbo and the Dynamic converter got shimmed with washers 1/8 of inch.
The fluid was not pouring out but it was a constant leak.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Oklahoma
eLiT3SnIpEz
Could be a leak at the pump, he may have nicked the seal somehow. Who knows, maybe he forced the pump in with the bellhousing still on.
The Bellhousing comes off these to install the pump??
Could be a leak at the pump, he may have nicked the seal somehow. Who knows, maybe he forced the pump in with the bellhousing still on.
The Bellhousing comes off these to install the pump??
The bellhousing edge slightly overlaps the pump opening of the case, so the pump is blocked from going in smoothly. If you force the pump in, you can *technically* get it in, but your seal is going to be completely chewed up all the way around.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
A new input shaft with a speed sensor came out around 2008; that does have a different pump. The 2008+ pump does have a slightly different shape and has a provision for the speed sensor. The input shaft then also has a "gear" which triggers the speed sensor. I don't know the details, but there are other differences between the input shafts with and without the speed sensor such that they are not interchangeable.
I don't know if installing a 2008 pump and leaving out the speed sensor (which has it own hole) would create a big leak. That is if the 2008 pump would physically even fit with a pre-2008 input shaft.
Correction - It appears that the speed sensor started to appear as early as 2006, perhaps only in 4L65E and a year later in 4L60E.
Last edited by mrvedit; Jun 18, 2012 at 07:12 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Oklahoma
Well, damn. Then it's kinda strange to have a leak that doesn't get fluid on the converter. Also I would think that the converter not sealing would make for a pretty big leak? I'm just not sure. I've never had this problem before, and I'm guessing not many others have either
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 318
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From: Oklahoma
The pump I got from my local transmission parts house was the WRONG pump. I took it to get a new seal put in and test fit a converter. After looking at the input shaft and pump shaft I noticed a wear line. I took a tape measure and measured the pump shaft and found a 1/2 inch difference. The new pump I was given had a 1/2 shorter shaft.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Glad you found the problem. Sorry that you had to pull the trans to fix it.
Make sure the "correct" pump's stator shaft has new teflon rings and that you resize them until just before the final assembly.
I researched this issue a bit more and learned the following:
Earliest 4L60E up through 1997 had a 6-7/8" long stator shaft.
Starting in 1998 some (most?) 4L60E have a 7-5/16" long stator shaft.
I just checked the 2010 unit I (still) have apart and it has a 7-5/16" shaft with the reluctor gear.
Make sure the "correct" pump's stator shaft has new teflon rings and that you resize them until just before the final assembly.
I researched this issue a bit more and learned the following:
Earliest 4L60E up through 1997 had a 6-7/8" long stator shaft.
Starting in 1998 some (most?) 4L60E have a 7-5/16" long stator shaft.
I just checked the 2010 unit I (still) have apart and it has a 7-5/16" shaft with the reluctor gear.
