4l80 engagement problem
So now I have the new motor in the Blazer and the trans is acting like a fool. It will not engage any gears forward or reverse until I rev the **** out of the motor. I can put it in park or neutral and rev it to 4 or 5k a couple times then it will engage. It may or may not "slip" (by slip I mean move forward or backward but require more RPM than normal to do so) at that point. If it does "slip" I can kick it in neutral and rev it a couple more times then it will engage like there is nothing wrong. I drove it on a 10 mile trip and it shifted fine. Had all gears plus had converter lockup like it should. Shifted great under WOT. Get home, turn it off, start it right back up and NO ENGAGEMENT. Rev the motor and then it engages...WTF??
Today I dropped the pan to take a look-see. Nothing appears out of the ordinary...checked the valve body bolts just to be sure....everything looks good. Put a new filter and filter seal in, filled it back up and guess what-no engagement til I rev it up. Gonna put a gauge on it tomorrow if the guy I loaned it to brings it back. Could I have damaged the teflon rings on the input shaft when I swapped it? Would that cause this kind of prob? I sure dont want to have to pull the trans!! Help, somebody please help!!!!
I then did an unscientific test-I checked the fluid level on the stick after it sat awhile with the engine off. I noted where the fluid was then started the engine. The time it took to drop down to the full mark is in correlation to how long it takes until the trans will engage without revving it up (a couple minutes). Then I went to my truck which has a 4l80e also and did the same test. In the time it took to walk from the driver door to the dipstick the fluid level dropped down to the full mark, not taking a couple minutes like the Blazer does.
Its like the pump is losing prime or the converter is draining and taking forever to fill back up. Why is the line pressure the same whether it engages or not?? I would think if the pump wasnt working or not pumping as much as it shoulc the pressure should be less??
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If could also be when you installed the hardened input shaft you have to make sure you lined it up to the feed holes in the forward drum.
The best thing to do is, is pull the transmission out. If you have any other questions please give me a call and lets see if we can fix this issue for you.

It sounds like the pump pressure is good. I know issues like this can beat you up trying to figure out what is wrong. Do you have the same delay in all ranges? If you put the shifter in D3, D2 or D1 does the same thing happen?
Why is the line pressure the same whether it engages or not? It has to be bleeding off somewhere past the pressure port in the side of the case, right? I have been reading what limited info I can find on the hydraulic circuits trying to understand where the fluid goes once it leaves the pump. In the grand schemeof things how far down the line is the pressure port from the pump?
Vince-yes it does it in all forward ranges as well as reverse. And fyi, I think this unit has the later OD roller....but if it was shelled it wouldn't work sometimes would it? The dang trans works great once it engages.
I just keep thinking about the fact it worked fine til I took R and R'ed the input shaft. It actually probably only has 10 1/8th mile passes and a couple hundred miles on it since it was rebuilt (like back in 2007 or so)
How was the converter spacing?
Chris
I've also seen them limit pressure to 125 psi in any range due to cracked case on the line pressure circuit, where it comes around the "corner" in the case and there is a large surface area for line pressure to blow out the case.
I don't think this is the issue here.
I would pull the pump and look at the pressure regulator, where it goes to the converter feed circuit (round hole in the rear pump half, at approx center of PR valve) and be sure nothing is stopping converter feed.
Obviously look at the OD roller and input shaft seals while there.

