Installed tranny, now engine won't turn over?
#1
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So, I have a frankentruck project. When I bolt hte drivetrain together, the engine won't turn w/ a socket & breaker bar.
Trying to turn the transmission pump shaft (the larger / outer shaft w/ ears on it) by hand, I can't. I don't know why not, and this seems to be the problem.
Parts & more info
I have an 02 4.8 Vortec engine from a Silverado and what I am told is an LS1 Camaro 4L60E transmission.
I am using the dished Vortec flex plate.
When I bolt the whole mess up it the engine can't be turned over.
When I bolt the torque converted to the flex plate (transmission off to the side) it seems to work fine. The engine turns over freely and I see no interference issues.
So, WTF? Did I buy a seized up trans, or is there something more to it that I don't yet understand?
My first Chevy project... I really know nothing about this stuff.
Trying to turn the transmission pump shaft (the larger / outer shaft w/ ears on it) by hand, I can't. I don't know why not, and this seems to be the problem.
Parts & more info
I have an 02 4.8 Vortec engine from a Silverado and what I am told is an LS1 Camaro 4L60E transmission.
I am using the dished Vortec flex plate.
When I bolt the whole mess up it the engine can't be turned over.
When I bolt the torque converted to the flex plate (transmission off to the side) it seems to work fine. The engine turns over freely and I see no interference issues.
So, WTF? Did I buy a seized up trans, or is there something more to it that I don't yet understand?
My first Chevy project... I really know nothing about this stuff.
#2
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A wild guess is that you used much too long bolts for the converter and the heads are hitting the engine block. (I.e. they bottomed out in the converter). But of course you say you that already checked that, but maybe you used different bolts for final assembly.
Otherwise, you might have installed the converter incorrectly and cracked and jammed the pump in the trans. The pump is the only thing that turns in the trans before the pump builds pressure.
These threads might help you (especially the first one):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ter-bolts.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lp-please.html
Keep us posted when you figure it out. And good luck.
Otherwise, you might have installed the converter incorrectly and cracked and jammed the pump in the trans. The pump is the only thing that turns in the trans before the pump builds pressure.
These threads might help you (especially the first one):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ter-bolts.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lp-please.html
Keep us posted when you figure it out. And good luck.
Last edited by mrvedit; 11-26-2012 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Fix typo
#3
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It sounds as if you maybe don't have the converter seated all the way into the transmission.
There should be 2 distinct clunks as you rotate the converter while installing it on the trans. At each clunk, the converter moves farther onto the shaft.
Ron
#4
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Yep, TC wasn't all the way onto the tranny. I have no idea if I've damaged anything, having bolted it up with the TC not seated, but it doesn't look / feel / sound like it. Engine turns smoothly w/ everything bolted up now.
Incidentally, the ARP flex plate to TC bolts are harder to work with than the factory stuff due to length issues. Oh well, got it worked out.
Thanks guys!
Incidentally, the ARP flex plate to TC bolts are harder to work with than the factory stuff due to length issues. Oh well, got it worked out.
Thanks guys!
#7
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It is very easy to break the pump by doing that. The pump rotors are very easy to crack and when they come apart it makes a mess of the whole pump. I have replaced many pumps because of this...
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#8
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If the converter hub was butted to the pump rotor, the pump will need to be removed and inspected AT THE VERY LEAST ! In most cases the pump rotor, converter, and flexplate will need to be replaced.
DDD
DDD
#9
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For my own education, is the damage usually limited to the pump or does ground metal get distributed throughout the trans?
(Perhaps this depends upon whether the engine was started?)
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If the engine is NOT run, the damage will be limited to the pump, TCon and Flexplate.
The flexplate is bent.When you butted the TCon hub against the pump rotor, something has to 'give'....and that will be the flaxplate since it is only 1/8 inch thick.They are cheap, so replacing it should be automatic.The TCon MAY be OK.Any marking on the hub and you should just replace the TCon.Atempting to run the trans with ANY of those parts damaged will cause severe damage the the trans and it will need to be completely redone.If their is any doubt about the condition of any of those parts, have a pro trans tech look them over.
DDD
The flexplate is bent.When you butted the TCon hub against the pump rotor, something has to 'give'....and that will be the flaxplate since it is only 1/8 inch thick.They are cheap, so replacing it should be automatic.The TCon MAY be OK.Any marking on the hub and you should just replace the TCon.Atempting to run the trans with ANY of those parts damaged will cause severe damage the the trans and it will need to be completely redone.If their is any doubt about the condition of any of those parts, have a pro trans tech look them over.
DDD
#11
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No update yet - I have a long ways to go before the truck runs. More wiring, install fuel system, add cooling system, drive shafts, etc.
I'm really, really hoping I didn't do any expensive damage. Financially I'm in way over my head as it is.
I'm really, really hoping I didn't do any expensive damage. Financially I'm in way over my head as it is.
#12
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Good luck with everthing.
#13
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Bringing this thread back alive this car will be the death of me already almost dropped it on myself twice and dropped a ratchet on my eye wanna know what to look for before i drop this thing again its a 5.3 and a 00ish 4l60e stock converter