Try a '99 4.3 4L60E with an f body tail housing. A lot can happen to a car in 15 to 18 years.

And who said the op's trans IS out of an LT1 f body? Thats what he was told.

I miss the good old days when op posts minimum info, so much more needed.
But op would just be told to use the search feature (in a smart *** way) and get no help.

 

Dude you were wrong, it's really not that big of a deal.. Sorry I pointed it out.!!!! Accept it and move on.. Good god man you are beating a dead horse!!!!! And unless the OP has any more questions I am done here..

 

A dude was trying to sale me an lt1 tranny wuth stall and flexplate. I wanted to know if it would work. We have now agreed that it will not work with my 98 ls1.

Now my 98 has a blown tranny. Still on car. Only stays in first gear. I have an ls1 yank stall that is waiting.for a good tranny. Trying to see if rebuilding it or just buying a used newer tranny would be easier on my pocket. I can just rebuild mine later if i buy used one. But if rebuilding to withstand thew new powertrain will cost me around 600-700 i may just consider. I have a commuter car now. So another month down and beefed up tranny could be worth it. Right now my stock tranny is leaking auto fluid all.over place. Hense why it prolly blew.

 

As is often the case, both of you are right, just looking at things differently.

According to the ATSG Update manual: "Beginning at the start of production for 1996 models, some THM 4L60E transmissions were built with a bolt-on bellhousing. The 4.3L V6 is the only one to receive the bolt-on bellhousing for 1996 models, and will be expanded to most other engine sizes for 1997."

So, swapping bellhousings might be theoretically possible, but I suspect such '97 V8 trans are pretty rare.

Jays_SSZ28: While you might know how to swap all those parts between different transmissions, I don't think a newbie would have much chance getting that to work. And no reputable builder is willing to build a Franken-trans because of reputation and liability reasons.

I do think you are correct that an LT1 trans can be fitted with the right converter, spacer and flexplate. However, I have read posts here where people tried it and gave up due to various problems encountered. Unfortunately I have no personal experience and don't know how well it works.

IMHO, hooking up a 20+ year old transmission in unknown condition to a 400+HP engine just doesn't sound like a good idea.

 

Glad to hear you are not considering that route anymore. For one thing, you could probably sell the LT1 trans for $400 and buy a newer LS trans for $500 off Craigslist. Since you already have a quality converter you definitely only want to consider '98 and later 4L60E with 300mm input shaft.

I suspect that buying a newer tranny off craigslist will be your best bet for now. I see reasonable units selling for $500 and even later model 4L65E selling for $750. You will want a '98 through '06 trans from a V8 with 2WD. ('07 and later will not work with your PCM. Cost more too.)

While Jays_SSZ28 or I and certainly any pro could rebuild and upgrade it for $500 in parts, this is not a trivial task for a first-timer, especially not with time and money constraints. If you want to learn it, do so later by rebuilding your existing trans.

As carlsonauto says, it takes a pro 8-10 hours to carefully rebuild a trans and you should therefore figure on a $600 labor charge plus $300-$400 for parts (rebuild kit, band, reverse drum, ATF). I suspect few builders would accept rebuilding with your provided parts and/or then wouldn't give you a warranty. For one thing the parts for a "stock" rebuild are not expensive, perhaps $200 even with a 30% markup. (Most kits on ebay are marked up more than that and/or are lower quality.)

So, IMHO, your choices are a $500 trans from Craigslist (keep your fingers crossed), or $900-$1000 for a local shop to rebuild your existing trans. All this assumes of course that you remove and install it yourself; for which the shop might then deny a warranty. I see people selling rebuilt 4L60E on CL for $600, but have no feedback on that and it is probably a crap-shoot too.

In any case, I would suggest at least dropping the pan on your current trans and checking the oil for metal fragments. If there are any metal fragments you will need to have your converter cleaned (if it was on that trans) and likely replace the trans cooler as they can never be fully flushed. Any metal fragments left in the cooler or converter will likely ruin the new trans too; this is one reason most shops will not give a warranty if you install it as they cannot then be sure the converter and cooler are clean.

Just as a disclaimer - these are my opinions and I am not an expert.

 

sounds about right bud. i have been looking at trannys on craigslist. so far havnt found one. they are either sold or a lt1 tranny. thanks for the years that i can choose from. helps me spread my search abit. the yank was not in this tranny. i left it out because i didnt have faith in the tranny to begin with. it had that bad leak and previous owner said they put a shift kit in it. so i have no idea the complete history on the transmission. i think i may buy the parts and take it to the shop. to be pulled and rebuilt. i do not have the tranny cooler on yet either. they would just need to flush the stock cooler correct? i would like to get everything from summit. they have bad *** shipping and seem fair priced. if you could give me an exact list of the rebuild parts ill get them in the next couple weeks as funds allow. id rather have all the parts so the hit is not as harsh when i drop car off at shop. just want him to have the least down time as possible. i may just let him get filter and oil. seems like a better choice than swapping to another used. if i find a good deal though i may just hop on it and get my car back on the road.

 

If you REALLY want to buy a rebuild kit yourself, here are two good possibilities:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUTECH-LEVE...-/251046519607

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-000035007.htm

The main difference is the first one includes the Band and perhaps a few other minor parts. So you are looking at around $190. The TCI kits on Summit are a bit higher priced - TCI just takes a standard kit, adds their name (meaningless in my book) and marks it up.
The trans shop will buy a kit (ask for 4L65E with 7 frictions) from distributor TranStar. I'd have to check the exact price, but it is probably around $120 cost for them plus $12 for a good band. Even if they mark it up by 30% it is still costing you the same $190. The last one I bought had excellent Hi-Energy frictions from Raybestos or Borg Warner.
Also, if the kit has a defective or missing part, the shop will take care of it.
Honestly I think you will annoy the shop and look foolish if you bring them your kit. And if there is a problem with the kit, you are really SOL. Also adding a Sonnax boost valve ($20) and Sonnax Smart Shell ($80) and excellent additions; the shop can order them from TranStar. Just my opinion.

 

ok, so looks like im getting a 02 52k mile 4l60e for now. is it hard to install a shift kit on my own? maybe i can atleast do that.

 

A low mileage '02 sounds like it great choice for you.

The 5 pages of instructions for the Transgo HD2 shift kit are posted here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html

It is easier to install when the trans is out of the car and you are NOT underneath it with ATF constantly dripping on you.

The directions are a bit sparse, but you can always post questions here.

Here are some other threads on the HD2 shift kit:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...d2-yes-no.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...hift-kits.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...shift-kit.html

 

Awesome. Thanks bud im gonna check those links out.

 

alright fellas. so i picked up a tranny yesterday. to good of a deal. got a fully rebuilt tranny that has 15k miles with not a spec of oil on it. only mod i am aware of is the beast sunshell. it was rebuilt by a performance shop in sac so i could be lucky and it was enforced more than the sunshell. but hey i hear that mod is a must. so i am happy. picked it up for 500. he said the tranny is strong and no issues. ran 11.3 1.6 60ft with same stall i have.

i want to change oil on it before i run it, along with filter. my question is what tranny fluid do you guys recommend or have experience using? i know tranny fluid can be a key element to helping tranny life. is royal purple overrated? i dont really have the cash for it. but i guess ill wait a week if i have to. any quick en expensive quick mods i can do or check before i put it in? im new to tranny work. so i may just leave it. ive changed some shift solinoids and swapped some before. but never opened a tranny past that. ive done heads and cam and other swaps. so im not that newbie under the wrench lol.

 

Actually it seems that ATF is not critical. GM recommends Dexron VI which I use because I don't mind a few extra dollars. Lots of people use the cheaper Dexron III. Personally I would try to find out what was used before and continue using it. Keep in mind that a trans holds 10+ quarts of fluid and a quick drain only get about 5 quarts out. Plus 1-2 quarts for the converter.

Here are some links:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...4l60e-use.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ype-4l60e.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l-running.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ilt-4l60e.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...kid-fluid.html

I could not find anyone using or recommending Royal Purple.

It surprised me to learn that some people use or mix in really cheap tractor hydraulic oil; seems that ATF is hydraulic oil with some additives and red dye.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...uid-4l60e.html

 

Kinda going off slightly topic on the OP but a lot of the big horsepower cars run john deere hy-gard hydraulic oil and it works really well. It seems to live longer in applications that would kill normal atf. For instance a turbo car trying to spool turbos that are just a touch on the large side on a transbrake normal atf becomes so hot and thin that it causes too much converter slippage by the time it gets to the big end of the track. The hy-guard tightens the converter up a little adding some more load and makes it to the end of the track before it becomes thin and watery..


One thing I will add is when you open up a trans that had that stuff in it and got hot its the nastiest smell ever. Burnt trans fluid doesnt bother me, not even the nastiest stuff but the hy-guard will give me a headache after about 20 minutes. The smell lingers for weeks too...

 

Talked to him. Said he used dex.III

 

So the 4l60 in the 95 s10 blazers will not bolt up to the 5.3?

 

Even though old, you are kinda hijacking this thread and you already started your own thread on that question:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...4214-4l60.html

I know you are trying to get more comments on it that just mine. Hopefully you will get some as I learn more that way too.