trany gurus. help
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No, at least not with "stock" parts.
I'm not personally experienced, but this is what I understand:
An lt1 auto will have a 298mm input shaft, which is completely different from the 300mm input shaft used in LS-compatible 4L60E. A 298mm (lt1) compatible converter will not mate to the LS engine's crank.
It might be possible for one of the converter sponsors to build you a custom unit,
EDIT: As Jays_SSZ28 points out later - it will bolt up with the a spacer and different/modified flexplate.
but I recall there are still other issues to solve.
In particular the LS PCM expects a "PWM" transmission which started in '95 or '96.
IMHO, the early LS1-compatible 4L60E were not built/designed strong enough to handle the power of LS engines, certainly not a high performance one. Therefore, even if you buy a customer converter ($700+?) and solve all the problems, the trans will likely not last long.
Sure, you could rebuild your trans, but switching the input shaft (and drum and pump) alone will cost $300+. Switching to PWM would require a different valve body. (You might be able to change the tune to work with non-PWM, but not sure.)
I might have a few details wrong, but I suspect the consensus will be to get a '98 or later LS compatible trans. Even starting on Craigslist or the junk yard would be better than trying to adapt a older one.
I'm not personally experienced, but this is what I understand:
An lt1 auto will have a 298mm input shaft, which is completely different from the 300mm input shaft used in LS-compatible 4L60E. A 298mm (lt1) compatible converter will not mate to the LS engine's crank.
It might be possible for one of the converter sponsors to build you a custom unit,
EDIT: As Jays_SSZ28 points out later - it will bolt up with the a spacer and different/modified flexplate.
but I recall there are still other issues to solve.
In particular the LS PCM expects a "PWM" transmission which started in '95 or '96.
IMHO, the early LS1-compatible 4L60E were not built/designed strong enough to handle the power of LS engines, certainly not a high performance one. Therefore, even if you buy a customer converter ($700+?) and solve all the problems, the trans will likely not last long.
Sure, you could rebuild your trans, but switching the input shaft (and drum and pump) alone will cost $300+. Switching to PWM would require a different valve body. (You might be able to change the tune to work with non-PWM, but not sure.)
I might have a few details wrong, but I suspect the consensus will be to get a '98 or later LS compatible trans. Even starting on Craigslist or the junk yard would be better than trying to adapt a older one.
Last edited by mrvedit; Feb 18, 2013 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Correction
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
No, at least not with "stock" parts.
I'm not personally experienced, but this is what I understand:
An lt1 auto will have a 298mm input shaft, which is completely different from the 300mm input shaft used in LS-compatible 4L60E. A 298mm (lt1) compatible converter will not mate to the LS engine's crank.
It might be possible for one of the converter sponsors to build you a custom unit, but I recall there are still other issues to solve.
In particular the LS PCM expects a "PWM" transmission which started in '95 or '96.
IMHO, the early LS1-compatible 4L60E were not built/designed strong enough to handle the power of LS engines, certainly not a high performance one. Therefore, even if you buy a customer converter ($700+?) and solve all the problems, the trans hIwill likely not last long.
Sure, you could rebuild your trans, but switching the input shaft (and drum and pump) alone will cost $300+. Switching to PWM would require a different valve body. (You might be able to change the tune to work with non-PWM, but not sure.)
I might have a few details wrong, but I suspect the consensus will be to get a '98 or later LS compatible trans. Even starting on Craigslist or the junk yard would be better than trying to adapt a older one.
I'm not personally experienced, but this is what I understand:
An lt1 auto will have a 298mm input shaft, which is completely different from the 300mm input shaft used in LS-compatible 4L60E. A 298mm (lt1) compatible converter will not mate to the LS engine's crank.
It might be possible for one of the converter sponsors to build you a custom unit, but I recall there are still other issues to solve.
In particular the LS PCM expects a "PWM" transmission which started in '95 or '96.
IMHO, the early LS1-compatible 4L60E were not built/designed strong enough to handle the power of LS engines, certainly not a high performance one. Therefore, even if you buy a customer converter ($700+?) and solve all the problems, the trans hIwill likely not last long.
Sure, you could rebuild your trans, but switching the input shaft (and drum and pump) alone will cost $300+. Switching to PWM would require a different valve body. (You might be able to change the tune to work with non-PWM, but not sure.)
I might have a few details wrong, but I suspect the consensus will be to get a '98 or later LS compatible trans. Even starting on Craigslist or the junk yard would be better than trying to adapt a older one.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
A Corvette 4l60e is not a good choice; for one it has a different bell housing and no output housing. More significantly, (RonSSNOva or someone else confirm this) my understanding is that at least the early LS units had the 298mm input shafts.
Your Yank 4000 (assuming for LS engines) definitely requires a 300mm input shaft.
A '98 through '06 2WD truck unit would be perfect as it will have the correct bell housing; you will need a different output housing, but that is easy to find on ebay or a local trans shop.
Note: a 4WD truck trans has a different output shaft requiring an extensive rebuild to swap to a 2WD output shaft.
I would suggest installing the Transgo HD2 shift kit ($80), a Corvette servo ($20) and a new Transgo separator plate ($30 with gaskets) to freshen and improve the durability of the trans. And of course new filter and fluid.
Your Yank 4000 (assuming for LS engines) definitely requires a 300mm input shaft.
A '98 through '06 2WD truck unit would be perfect as it will have the correct bell housing; you will need a different output housing, but that is easy to find on ebay or a local trans shop.
Note: a 4WD truck trans has a different output shaft requiring an extensive rebuild to swap to a 2WD output shaft.
I would suggest installing the Transgo HD2 shift kit ($80), a Corvette servo ($20) and a new Transgo separator plate ($30 with gaskets) to freshen and improve the durability of the trans. And of course new filter and fluid.
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
A Corvette 4l60e is not a good choice; for one it has a different bell housing and no output housing. More significantly, (RonSSNOva or someone else confirm this) my understanding is that at least the early LS units had the 298mm input shafts.
Your Yank 4000 (assuming for LS engines) definitely requires a 300mm input shaft.
A '98 through '06 2WD truck unit would be perfect as it will have the correct bell housing; you will need a different output housing, but that is easy to find on ebay or a local trans shop.
Note: a 4WD truck trans has a different output shaft requiring an extensive rebuild to swap to a 2WD output shaft.
I would suggest installing the Transgo HD2 shift kit ($80), a Corvette servo ($20) and a new Transgo separator plate ($30 with gaskets) to freshen and improve the durability of the trans. And of course new filter and fluid.
Your Yank 4000 (assuming for LS engines) definitely requires a 300mm input shaft.
A '98 through '06 2WD truck unit would be perfect as it will have the correct bell housing; you will need a different output housing, but that is easy to find on ebay or a local trans shop.
Note: a 4WD truck trans has a different output shaft requiring an extensive rebuild to swap to a 2WD output shaft.
I would suggest installing the Transgo HD2 shift kit ($80), a Corvette servo ($20) and a new Transgo separator plate ($30 with gaskets) to freshen and improve the durability of the trans. And of course new filter and fluid.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I'm confused.
You mentioned a LT1 tranny and a '98 Tranny, not sure if they are the same.
I was trying to say that many '98 and later 4L60E will have the 300mm input shaft; all '98 and later for LS engines.
Here is a picture from this descriptive page:
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...E-4L65Etc.html
LS engines require a trans with the 300mm input shaft - rightmost picture.
Same that the Yank converter requires.
So, what input shaft do you have?
Also, as far as I know, all 300mm input shaft 4L60E bell housings have a bolt hole in the 12-O'Clock position.
Tell you exactly what you have and/or post pics and we will go from there.
You mentioned a LT1 tranny and a '98 Tranny, not sure if they are the same.
I was trying to say that many '98 and later 4L60E will have the 300mm input shaft; all '98 and later for LS engines.
Here is a picture from this descriptive page:
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...E-4L65Etc.html
LS engines require a trans with the 300mm input shaft - rightmost picture.
Same that the Yank converter requires.
So, what input shaft do you have?
Also, as far as I know, all 300mm input shaft 4L60E bell housings have a bolt hole in the 12-O'Clock position.
Tell you exactly what you have and/or post pics and we will go from there.
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I see now. I read it wrong. So yes i was being offered a rebuilt lt1 tranny that came with stall and flexplate. My car sits with a blown 98 4l60e and 4000ss yank stall waiting for a working tranny. Should i just drop my tranny off to be rebuilt with parts you mentioned? Looking for.most cost efficient. I have about.550 to play with After getting those parts you mentioned.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I just PM'ed you my cell phone number as I am still confused by what you have.
Is your "blown" 4L60E a 300mm input shaft unit?
If yes, then you don't need/want the parts I mentioned.
You need to get it rebuilt and I would highly recommend at least an upgraded Sun Shell, and using a 4L65E rebuilt kit as that has a 7-friction 3-4 clutch.
You will need a VERY good friend with trans experience to get it done for $500. Parts are going to cost $300 (plus $100 if you need a new reverse drum) and that does not include labor to remove/install the trans and rebuild it.
These two recent threads might help you decide how to proceed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ips-3-4-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...n-rebuild.html
Is your "blown" 4L60E a 300mm input shaft unit?
If yes, then you don't need/want the parts I mentioned.
You need to get it rebuilt and I would highly recommend at least an upgraded Sun Shell, and using a 4L65E rebuilt kit as that has a 7-friction 3-4 clutch.
You will need a VERY good friend with trans experience to get it done for $500. Parts are going to cost $300 (plus $100 if you need a new reverse drum) and that does not include labor to remove/install the trans and rebuild it.
These two recent threads might help you decide how to proceed:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ips-3-4-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...n-rebuild.html
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To use an LT1 trans with an LS1 just adapt it like you would a th350 or th400. Converter spacer and flexplate.
Or swap your input, pump, converter, bellhousing into the LT1 trans. Or just take the good parts out of the LT1 trans and put them in yours.
I'd just rebuild your LS1 trans, then theres no adapting, no guessing what the used trans has in it, etc.
Or swap your input, pump, converter, bellhousing into the LT1 trans. Or just take the good parts out of the LT1 trans and put them in yours.
I'd just rebuild your LS1 trans, then theres no adapting, no guessing what the used trans has in it, etc.
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To use an LT1 trans with an LS1 just adapt it like you would a th350 or th400. Converter spacer and flexplate.
Or swap your input, pump, converter, bellhousing into the LT1 trans. Or just take the good parts out of the LT1 trans and put them in yours.
I'd just rebuild your LS1 trans, then theres no adapting, no guessing what the used trans has in it, etc.
Or swap your input, pump, converter, bellhousing into the LT1 trans. Or just take the good parts out of the LT1 trans and put them in yours.
I'd just rebuild your LS1 trans, then theres no adapting, no guessing what the used trans has in it, etc.
I totally agree that its rebuild time... If you find someone to rebuild it for $500 I will be very surprised... and scared...
On The Tree
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I'm not sure if you will find anyone for that kind of money or not. I know that if you showed up at my door with a trans and a box of parts I wouldnt have any warm fuzzy feelings about building it for you regardless of what you were paying unless I told you exactly what parts to order. I think that you will find that to be the case with most good builders. I am very picky about what parts I use and I know exactly what combination or combinations of parts work well on certain transmissions and I like to use what I know works well and has proven itself to me numerous times. When using less expensive kits a lot of times cheap parts are included and sometimes cheap parts work great, usually not the case in a transmission though. That being said to do a good rebuild at a normal pace you are looking at anywhere from 8-10 hours to get it done. At $500 thats about $50 per hour and I know after paying all the bills at the end of the month at $50 per hour my paycheck would be about $2 per hour. Im sleeping in instead.. Im not saying you wont find someone to do it because somebody somewhere will but there has to either be a reason they are doing it that cheap or they like to work for free. Thats my thoughts and I'm overly tired so that may or may not make any sense at all... LOL
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
No, it makes sense. One dude quoted me 590 if i brought parts. Im going to ask a good shop on monday how much they would charge..i almost feel like getting a used one and slapping it on for now. Only reason i dont like shops getting parts is cause i feel they may over charge for parts to turn better profit.
On The Tree
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Making a profit is what its all about.... I will tell you one thing is for sure none of us are working on cars or building transmissions to get rich. Thats not going to happen doing this. Its all about keeping the lights on...
The 4L60E in my Z28, I built myself for well under $500, it's a stock weight car that runs 12 flat and that trans hasn't been refreshed. It's going on 8 years and works fine.
Thats why a trans builder will never help on the side of doing it yourself. Can't argue with that I guess, but I'm not a trans builder, I do it as a hobby and transmissions can be built by regular people for 1/3 the cost a shop charges.
On The Tree
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How so? I am a builder and I help people on here every day.. as a hobby you can afford to do it for 1/3 of the cost. Do you go to work every day and work for free? No I am guessing you dont, please dont expect us to either!!!!!!
On The Tree
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A bolt on bell housing on a 4l60e that came off of an LT1??? Could be wrong but as far as I know they dont exist... if they do I have never seen one...
Last edited by carlsonauto; Jan 6, 2013 at 04:08 AM.
On The Tree
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I never said that wouldnt work, you may want to read my post before you try to make me look like a fool. All I said was swapping bell housings wouldnt work so good without a welder. NEVER said it couldnt be used at all, just not by swapping bells... Go back and reread, take special note of what I made bold in the quote.