Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

So I'm lost when it comes to transmissions. Car hasn't been driven much lately and after swapping in 3.90 gears and checking all fluids, I tried a little test drive. Won't shift through the gears. Can't even manually shift it.
Got the following codes:
P0785: Shift/Timing Solenoid
P1860: TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit
P0740: TQ Converter Clutch Solenoid
P0753: Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758: Shift Solenoid B Electrical

WTF is up with this?! It's like it's not plugged in at all! Now, I've never done anything with a transmission so I'm completely lost on all of this but it seems like its gotta be a single electrical problem and not several individual problems. Please help. Thanks in advance!

mrvedit

It either isn't plugged in or you have blown a fuse. Based on those codes, I am very confident the trans is not getting +12V to the internals.

Check the fuse first. Then see if you can pull up the connector without squeezing the sides - you cannot if it is snapped in fully.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

Maybe I missed something when looking at the fuses; I didn't see one for transmission. I'll look again. Where is the plug located?

mrvedit

I don't have a Gen 4, but I know there is at least one fuse for the trans.
I am referring to the plug on the passenger side of the trans; it can be very difficult to reach.

Dynamic396

Yep, mrvedit right. Your transmission is not getting any +12V power and you are stuck in 3rd gear.

The transmission gets its power from the "ENG CTRL" fuse. It should be in the fuse box under the hood. Check for power at this fuse; don't just pull it out and look at it. It's possible that you don't even have power to the fuse. I've seen quite a few ignition switch problems in those.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

So would the codes all only concern the transmission if its that fuse?

Dynamic396

That particular fuse powers up only the transmission solenoids and the EVAP purge and vent solenoids. If your PCM were to command an EVAP event, you would, most likely, get several codes for that as well.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

Well I deleted the EVAP. Obviously I did have a code for it as well as EGR and AIR...also removed long ago. This transmission issue is a new problem that didn't come up after those deletes. And the fuse itself isn't blown. I'll need to get a test light or multi-meter to check for power.

Dynamic396

Use a test light. A multimeter requires very, very little current to register voltage. They can get you into trouble when checking for things like this. I'm betting that your ignition switch has died...

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

replaced ignition switch without resolution. Someone suggested the ignition switch wiring harness. Tomorrow i finally get a day off work so I'll pull the plug out and test for voltage at the trans. All that aside, would it be possible to run a fused stand-alone power wire to the transmission's plug?

mrvedit

You simply need to put a volt meter on the +12V side of any solenoid, and if there is no voltage (as predicted), trace that back to figure it out.
Not to be critical, but if you don't have the experience to trace this out, I don't think you should be making any electrical mods to the car. Again, not to question you knowledge or abilities, but I don't want to suggest anything that might lead to a dead battery, melted wires or even a fire.

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

No offense taken but what would you have me do, burn the car for the insurance money? I need to fix my car and don't have a whole lot of money to go get raped by a shop. I know how to trace electrical connections but like I'd said, I don't have experience with transmissions and I know there are modules and other things involved beyond plugs, wires and fuses. So that's why I come on here and try picking the brains of those with the experience. Thanks.

mrvedit

It is simpler than you think. The harness going to the trans has 13 wires. IIRC, all but the +12V wire go to the PCM. The +12V goes to the fuse box, as Dynamic396 explained. Here is the schematic of the internals of a 4L60E:

http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/wiring.html

* As suggested, I would first ID the correct fuse and put a volt meter on it to ensure it has +12V on both sides.
* If you are sure the fuse is good, drop the pan and get the the voltmeter ready. Turn on the ignition. At least one side of each solenoid should read +12 volts. (One test lead on the trans case, other test lead sticking into the solenoid connectors.)

If you don't have +12V, it could be a bad connection in the trans connector or in the harness between the trans and the fuse box.
If you do have +12V on one side of each solenoid, then the problem is in the wiring between the solenoid and the PCM.