Trango shift kit. Yes or no?
Trango shift kit. Yes or no? Hello yall i need some advice. Im going to have 3200 stall installed.Should i insatll a trango shift kit at the same time?Is this neccesary?What is the ups and downs about this trango kit?This is going on a every day driver. Im going to be adding a trans cooleer also.i currently have 50,000 miles.Is it a pain in the *** to install this shfit kit?Is it worth it?Looking forward to some response.
98 Trans-Am Lid/Lts/Truduals/freemods/suspension.chassismods.
98 Trans-Am Lid/Lts/Truduals/freemods/suspension.chassismods.
Last edited by 9833211; Apr 26, 2004 at 08:05 PM.
Do it. I have had 2 different cars with these shift kits and the B&M Trans cooler and the transmissions have lasted longer than they should have. Heavy Nitrous use and no problems. Just get a trans temp gauge and don't beat on the car when it's flaming hot and you will be fine. The shift kit shifts nice and firm and will extend the life of the trans. It will limit the amount of slip during the shifts. If you don't do it the shift kit at all will feel very sloppy during the shifts and there is a possibility that it will slip and hit the limiter depending on your application. Easy install, be prepared to get messy.
Tim
Tim
Originally Posted by TooSlowFiveOh
Do it. I have had 2 different cars with these shift kits and the B&M Trans cooler and the transmissions have lasted longer than they should have. Heavy Nitrous use and no problems. Just get a trans temp gauge and don't beat on the car when it's flaming hot and you will be fine. The shift kit shifts nice and firm and will extend the life of the trans. It will limit the amount of slip during the shifts. If you don't do it the shift kit at all will feel very sloppy during the shifts and there is a possibility that it will slip and hit the limiter depending on your application. Easy install, be prepared to get messy.
Tim
Tim
I just did a build on my 20,000 mile trans because with my 3200 it shifted like a pig. I put a beast sunshell, kevlar band, stainless billet servo and used the race/high stall setting. WOW! Happy day and I went to a 4000 stall as well.
Do it now or do it later, but do it.
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Go to http://www.pro-built.net/index.cfm?f...t&productid=91 this should give you what you want. If you have any questions on this, let me know?
Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
Go to http://www.pro-built.net/index.cfm?f...t&productid=91 this should give you what you want. If you have any questions on this, let me know?
Thanks for the information. It is really good to see a company like yours post in this section. Maybe you can help all of us get a better understanding of what happens in a transmission.
Why do some converter manufactures recommend NOT installing a shift kit with their performance 10” converters?
Thanks
John
Originally Posted by samz28
eh thats what a transgo shift kit says on the box man.
And who makes a 10" for the fbody? my tci was a 9"
And who makes a 10" for the fbody? my tci was a 9"
They are also made reference to as either 245mm or a 258mm.
The next time I have a transmission question I will be sure to look on my Transgo box first.
John
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From: Atlanta, GA
yeah i wish the folks that make the kit would explain exactly what each part they give you does. It would mean alot. I'm sure whoever invented the kit has an idea (or hope so).
lol.
i know after the kit the car slams the 1-2 shift pretty hard feels like a small thud even though im not on it, kinda like if i was granny shifting (loose verter) and just dropped the hammer (cluch pedal) at low load. I did not feel that before maybe its all in my head.
lol.
i know after the kit the car slams the 1-2 shift pretty hard feels like a small thud even though im not on it, kinda like if i was granny shifting (loose verter) and just dropped the hammer (cluch pedal) at low load. I did not feel that before maybe its all in my head.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Cleveland, OH
Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
Go to http://www.pro-built.net/index.cfm?f...t&productid=91 this should give you what you want. If you have any questions on this, let me know?
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On 1996 & later 4L60E's, "do not" grind on the manual valve. Take the checkball out of the low/reverse apply feed hole in the case, leave the retainer, just remove the checkball. This will allow the low/reverse clutches to apply (assuming there is not to much clearance in this clutch pack) first before the reverse input clutches come on, resulting in a smoother engagement.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 86
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From: Cleveland, OH
Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
On 1996 & later 4L60E's, "do not" grind on the manual valve. Take the checkball out of the low/reverse apply feed hole in the case, leave the retainer, just remove the checkball. This will allow the low/reverse clutches to apply (assuming there is not to much clearance in this clutch pack) first before the reverse input clutches come on, resulting in a smoother engagement.
And one more question. This will be my daily driver. Should I still use the kit you recommended? Or do you have something that is not as agressive?
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I set each kit up so that it will match your vehicle. This information is needed. What rearend gear ratio do you have?, which torque converter & stall are you using?, what has been done to the motor?, what kind of driving do you do?, (street, street/strip, road racing), etc.
