5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

Can we expand this to how much it costs to have a 4L80E that supports 1300 rwhp?

Jakes level 5 4L80E with D3 transbrake 4L80-3A = $4150
4L80E converter triple disk = $1100
MWC lightweight tubular 4L80E crossmember = $175
Nelson Racing Harness = $89
Cost to flash with the 4L80e segment = $100
6AN hose and fittings = $56
6AN x 1/4 NPSM 4L80E Banjo cooler fittings = $50
Lokar dipstick tube Lokar XTD-34L80FM36 = $126
Chromoly Driveshaft Strange 3.5" with Sonnax Yoke - $614
Transmission cooler
Fluid/gasket/filter

Optional
Custom pan =?
TransGo Vacuum Modulator 48-MOD = $150

My PST aluminum 3.5" for my 4L60E and S60 rear measures 41 5/8" from seal to center. That's edge of the seal (not output shaft) to the centerline of the rear U-joint. To handle 1300 hp, I'll need to upgrade to a strange chromoly U1704 with the Sonnax 1350 series Yoke and chromoly welds. I'm looking at $614 for the driveshaft alone. This driveshaft will be shorter, but I plan to get an exact measurement. Anyone running a S60 rear with the 4L80E that has the measurement?

roysatikas

just pulled my 350/700R4 from my 91’ Camaro and I’m doing an L92/6L80E swap. Squeezing both cheeks wondering if that trans is going to fit? Is the “4” and “6” trans the same external dimensions? Nice job on your install, it’s giving me Hope!

planning on a UMI K member and modifying my UMI 700R4 trans mount with DS loop and TQ arm to make this happen, is that a custom fabricated trans mount?

Thanks again
Roy

also thanks to everyone on this site for sharing info. I’ll be sure to share as I work my way through 👍

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

6l80es aren't even close to fitting

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

Bumling this up for the tons of posts on fbody empire of people looking for this info

psicko

Awesome info Mavn. Never knew those banjo fittings for the trans even existed.

Innovate

iTrader: (2)

How much power are theses 80e's supposed to hold stock or stock rebuilt?

vorteciroc

-Stock (completely OEM): 300 - 400
-Stock ( with free Mods*): 700 - 800
-Rebuilt (maximum effort): 1,500+


*free Mods include: removing two seals and plugging a hole.

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

Good info.

Fah Cue

iTrader: (2)

I'll never do it again. It sucked. I did it in my driveway on my back. I hated every second of it.
I also put the engine and transmission in at the same time. Also hated that. I also installed the Chris1313 pro stock ram air, which also sucked lol. I'm replacing the fuel pump this weekend with hot wire and booster kit. I'm sure that'll be fantastic.

So anyway, it went fairly straightforward. Got the engine and trans landed at home in a few hours.
That's when the fun started. Since it went it together, I had to tilt the works at least a dozen times for test fitting, clearancing, grinding, cutting cursing and smashing cut off wheels. After I got the bracing cut for the plug, I ran the cooler lines.
This car has a small cooler on it tied into the factory cooler. The hard lines got bent and squished during install, so I took them out and by passed the factory cooler. I bought a much bigger cooler that I'm going to run. (During a 20 mile test drive trans never got hotter then 183 with the small cooler).
I was told a 4l60 trans mount will work if it's flipped around or whatever. Well kinda. It worked but I had to elongate the mounting holes. Real pain in the ***, especially with the metal spacer that comes with the mount.

I reused the 4l60 shift arm with no modifications needed. The stock shifter also was used, but with the mounting holes opend up a little.


So now the purpose of my post.

I won't go into detail here, but I will say, I'm not too happy with this company whom I've spent over 5k with over the years and how this has all gone down.

​​​I bought an adjustable torque arm the 7th or 8th of June. I just got it today. Told #$-)+ at this place, that I have a relocation cross member for an 80 swap. I'm using their cross member. They sent me the clamshell urethane torque arm mount, not the square one that's needed.

Anything I can do to make this work?


I'm an otr truck driver. I only have a little bit of time to do anything on the weekends. Last weekend, I drilled out the rubber from the factory clamshell and rigged together something that worked to get the car drivable for a leak test. It worked for that 20 miles lol.

So am I fucked again waiting and dealing with this company?

I just got the engine going. I need to put miles on it.

Thanks for the read, insight, help whatever

vorteciroc

What are you trying to say?

You keep going off on tangents...

1. You have a 4th gen F-body and did a 4L80E swap from a 4L60E.
2. You purchased a transmission cross-member and torque-arm from a company (that you will not say who it is) and they do not fit or work as intended???

Or are you just complaining that you were sent an incorrect part (torque-arm mounting bushing)?
If that is the case... I have news for you; I receive parts in the mail every day and about 35% of the time... something was sent incorrectly...
Now with businesses and employment suffering (From the virus)... that percentage has gone up to about 65%.

Do you need our help to fix something... or are you just looking to vent?
Venting is fine.
Your statements were lacking in clarity.

Fah Cue

iTrader: (2)

A little of both actually. The frustration got to boiling over I suppose 😔
I was venting because I spent way to much time completing this swap and because it took almost 5 weeks to get the torque arm. It had nothing to do with the virus. It was a inventory error, then a powder coating issue, then it didn't get shipped out. Just a giant hassle.

So the mount they sent can be used for either a factory clamshell mount or the relocation cross member which is what I have. I did not know that. I guess I missed that part when I was researching this swap.
​I was hoping to see if anybody knew if this was the right bushing or if it could be used, before I set fire to this turd.
​​​​​I talked to the right guy and he explained it to me on how it fit and why they use this style bushing now.

I'm just tired of crawling my fat *** under this thing lol

You have no idea the tangents I went off on attempting this swap LMAO.

Thanks for the reply and not giving me **** for venting.

vorteciroc

It's all good.

What did you purchase?
Do you want to post photos, so some of us that are familiar with the products can share their experiences or knowledge?

Fah Cue

iTrader: (2)

To be brutally honest, I had every intention of taking lots of pics, and documenting it as I went.
That **** went out the window the first day lol.
No help, 90+ degrees, on my back. Pics were the last thing on my mind.

This is my third f body. And all of them have had BMR stuff on them. No change here. I bought ta001, which is the long adjustable arm. It came with the mount. Glenn took care off everything that other people dropped the ball on and stepped up to get this handled.

So this mount is compatible with the factory clamshell style, and it'll work with the relocation cross member.

The only thing I can offer, which admittedly isn't much, is that it installs the same way as it would had you utilized the factory clamshell.

Dan45

iTrader: (6)

can you explain the how to on theses free mods please?

Dan45

iTrader: (6)

can you explain the free mods in detail please?

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ons-guide.html

Devin320

sorry to bring this old forum back up but I want to know is the new converter a must or can I get away with the stock 4L60E one.

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

If you are swapping in a 4L80E, you can't use a 4L60E converter. You need a 4L80E converter.

Devin320

thank u

FranksCustomTrans

As stated you will have to usE a 4l80e converter , on a side note OMG at the RTV on that pan,
Personally I do see the advantage of this swap at this time.
1- Most any junk yard 80e now will need a full rebuild, bushings, probably AFL VALVE and TCC valve addressed , probably a pump , almost certainly a direct drum and likely a center support this I am finding with the cores I get , People do not just throw away the vehicles these came in they generally because of price run them till they will go no more.
2-The ratios are not ideal for performance use and rotational assemblies heavy.

3-Today The 60E is built and parts and know how available to make them handle really big power , I know this for a fact. I have built many that years ago people would have said no way to the power they are and have been doing daily.

4-Yes to build one to handle the big power cost a bit more but not really time you get into the cost and effort to do the swap .

Just my unsolicited thoughts lol since this old thread came up .