I'm using HP tuners MPVI2 pro and I need to know exactly what perimeters will influence the power while shifting. Can anyone tell me?

There are different menus for engine and trans torque settings and after hours of searching I cannot find any info on this very specific question. Perhaps only the trans TM will influence it?

Vehicle: 2003 Denali - CATs deleted, MAF deleted, 4" cold air intake
Goal: put 100% of the power to the ground while in gear but drastically reduce the power while the transmission is in the process of shifting - interested in fast shifts (don't care what they "feel" like)

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...tm-w-pics.html

Have you read this?
There is a section dedicated to torque management for the trans

 

Hello,
Yes, I read that and it's doesn't touch on the topic in my question. The answer might be as simple as: the engine torque management doesn't influence the trans TM except that it might be making more power before and after the shift so the trans TM needs to be increased when removing engine TM.

EDIT: I've removed both the engine and trans TM, I'm happy with the result in terms of the power the engine is putting down but it doesn't shift well now at WOT

I'd like to keep as much of the engine TM disabled and only change the settings that will apply at the moment(s) the trans is shifting.

 

I've been messing with hptuners and f body transmission tuning since 2005. The TM isn't why your transmission shifts bad now.
You need to disable ALL TM and tune other areas or even get into the transmission mechanicals to make it shift perfect.

If you want to post your tune file I'll tune it for free and guarantee I'll be right (at least on the tuning side) and/or I can tell you why it doesn't feel right.

TM doesn't save your transmission, it slows you down.

 

That is not true at all. Got a sticky in this section explaining it.

 

Jays, I like you on this forum and you usually share good info. But on this instance, I'm going to have to really disagree with you.
You're a smart guy. You know the difference between Static coefficient of friction and Kinetic coefficient of friction. Kinetic is always lower. Kinetic is the factor you have during a shift. When you have to engage the clutch. Then once it's locked up together...you have static.

A clutch that is engaged and stays engaged can hold alot of power compared to a clutch of equal size that has to apply during a shift. Think FWD vs Directs in a th400.

Anywho...if you can cut torque in half while the clutch pack is engaging...make it easy to get it to hold and reach the static coefficient of friction condition...then you can put back significantly more power and the clutch will hold.

Torque management often helps transmissions live much longer, makes them shift better (again...that clutch won't slip at half the torque...if you don't feel slip, that's a better shift), and ultimately doesn't cost you much time.

Lets presume the following: an F body that runs 11.0 in the 1/4 mile and has a transmission capable of taking Full power during all shifts (AKA zero TM)
If you added back a typical amount of torque management...I would be very surprised to see that same car do any worse than 11.2 VERY surprised

In principle...yes...you should just build a badass trans and be able to give it the sauce all the time
but for many people, torque management is a fantastic tool that can help them greatly

 

Thats about all I read, I'll read the rest later.

The th400 was introduced in what 1964. Thats maybe 34 years without TM. And I get your point I'm just not a do it by what the book says type of person. What I do is 100% real life what I have done.

I'll cut it short, I'm not looking to argue, but I will continue to run without TM on all my built transmissions, And even some that aren't built.
Not sure if you know but I don't build for customers, I build for me and maybe a friend here and there. So if something breaks it's not a legal issue. Yet I haven't had any zero TM related failures.

 

I don't rely on the internet. I've done so many things that people said wouldn't work but did work.

The internet is great at telling me that what I have already done for a long time will never work at all.

Don't let other peoples experiences rule your life.

 

I don't rely on the internet either....that's why I wrote the sticky. A built 4l60e doesn't need TM...a stock one does and I explain why.

 

This I can understand and I made mention of. But trust me, after tearing plenty down...torque management shows visible difference inside the trans.
Is it needed for a built trans...no.
But for a lazy trans or a trans that is closer to stock or a trans that someone wants to pour more power to than it is really meant to handle...then TM is a good thing

 

You're right, theres no arguement there.

I just don't like torque management.

 

I can say that disabling all TM and TC on my 200K worn out 4l65e trans caused it to start slipping, at least it is very slow to drop into the gears at WOT, and now it builds heat much, much faster then before removing it. It shifted "ok" before and clearly NOT OK after disabling TM/TC (traction control) a very clear cause and effect....hence this post.

I'm going to restore and increase the TM setting that will influence the power applied while shifting and anyone else thinking about disabling TM on an old worn out trans should not, based on my own experience.

It's EZ to say just get a built trans and disable TM but I working on a daily driver that's 6,800 LBs and there is zero point in rebuilding the trans if its not broken....it would break in maybe a couple weeks if I left TM disabled.

 

By the way!!! This is the info I got from HP tuners forum. - Credit goes to user Tiron

Trans > Torque Management > Torque Reduction (Normal for normal, Performance for tow/haul mode)

That is the table that determines how much power to pull during a shift. This table is percentage of engine torque to pull during a shift event. I do not feel like it reflects actual torque very well, at least on my LQ4 truck, but try adding 10% to this whole table and see how it feels for you. If you really want the fastest possible you could set this whole table to 100% and lower the minimum spark (more below) -- I tried this on my truck for a bit but eventually changed it back to something a little more civil. Part throttle shifts were pretty choppy at that setting (full throttle shifts felt nice though). You can also use this to set up shifts differently in tow mode, use tow mode like a sport button.

Abuse mode on that same screen protects from driveline shock / neutral drops. It may engage while in gear from a stop as well, not sure on that. I always disable it and set the RPM very high (4000 or so).

Trans > Shift Pressures > Upshift (Normal for drive, Performance for tow mode)

This one controls the trans line pressure during the shift. My truck has a 4L80, but I run the tow mode pressures in the normal table as well.

Engine > Torque Management > Spark Retard vs Torque Reduction

This is the table that actually changes how much timing is pulled based on the torque reduction request. Use this along with the first table to determine / control exactly how much timing is removed.

Engine > Spark > Advance > Minimum Spark > Spark Retard Limit

If your timing pull gets too high, you may run into this minimum timing value. Stock value on my truck is -10, I probably wouldn't go lower than -15.

Engine > Torque Management > Abuse

I always turn the abuse RPM way up here as well. Not entirely sure when this limiter kicks in, but raising the RPM to 4000 or 5000 will probably get it out of the way.


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let me know if you can add anything that might help me pull power during the shift without removing it while its in gear

 

So do you still want to put 100% power to the ground? Looks like you can't with that old worn out transmission.

Sometimes people make no sense.

 

can't do it with a broken trans from disabling TM either...

 

So you want to limp your worn out transmission along or delete tm and have it live.

Upshift Pressure Modifier.

You can watch the pressure on the gauge, pressure goes up, you know the shift is coming, then it shifts, pressure goes back to normal.

I didn't read any of the links but I bet that wasn't mentioned.
Don't you think adding 75 psi during a shift would help?

Well it'll help a transmission live, but it's not going to add friction material to your worn out clutches.

See how it goes both ways. You can pull torque during the shift OR you can add pressure during the shift.

BTW thats clever how you acted like you wanted to learn about transmission tuning and all that when you were actually trying to limp a worn transmission along.

Sure people can slam me for suggesting 100% TM delete. I wonder how they feel about tuning a worn transmission to limp the rest of the life out of it.

 

Yea, disabling TM breaks transmissions. Get a clue (in the real world)

 

I've never had to rebuild a 4l60e with the tuning I've done, so maybe you should get a clue. Ignorance must be bliss for you huh??

 

You get off on talking ****, you have no point. **** off.

 

Weird considering you started all this crap with your "TM sucks" BS. Not sure why this is such a hard concept for you. If you already have a broken trans or want to build it to go racing, sure you don't need TM. On a street car or stock trans, not everyone wants to go spending thousands or a ton of hours rebuilding their trans. TM flat out WORKS if you have a clue. Please, continue wasting money where you don't have to.