YES, I did reset TAPS before transmission installation.

 

Hi again,
I was thinking that maybe I should pack up and head over to GM trucks or "something trucks" because I feel like an idiot posting on a Camaro/Firebird site when I don't even own a car. I just like the advice given on this site. It seems that people know what they are talking about and most important, usually, I said usually, you can follow a thread to the answer, instead of being led straight into la la land, or waste your time on a thread that just turns into a thread with everyone arguing, which goes nowhere! Which, by the way, the only reason I am thinking I should stay here is I started something and now I owe the answers. I can't just leave, unless I should? I will search and see how many truck owners are on here? If not only me, then I'll stay. That's a warning, haha. Yes I am up in the middle of the night trying to figure this out. I have, well had a time frame to be done with this. That was months ago. Seriously since November 2018, every single day I have worked on this truck, some or most of those days have been all day and some all night. I gotta fix it, wish I already did. I m going to bother bbond105, find out what my palm reading is. Ha ha Im kidding, need to ask him about the outcome of pulling that connector might be? Maybe I will sleep soon?

 

What it means is that the trans is broken. The trans will work in reverse and 3rd gear without any electrical controls. Also unplugging the connector will cause the line pressure to max out. What is most likely happening is when you let the truck sit for a while all of the burnt clutches that are stopping up your filter drain out and when you start it up it will work for a few minutes before the filter stops up again. Have you checked the fluid lately?

 

1) tci convertors are the worst garbage you could buy. How people still buy them, I have no idea. If you gave me one, I wouldn’t put it in anything nor would I feel ok selling it to someone. Just my opinion based off of 5 failures.
2) 3200-3400 stall is not that big and won’t beat up your trans. Not sure how you come up with that.
3) stage 3 cam is never good for a truck unless your more worried about going to the track and don’t care about drivebility.
4) even if you have a 2000 stall you could have a slip code pop up. It depends on how loose it is
5) how do you think that because you have a 3200-3400 stall that you can’t cruise at 2000rpm? Do you know what lockup is? What it’s for?

What name brand is the convertor? You may have said it but like Maroonmonster said, your posts are sometimes hard to read because it’s like a novel with no breaks.

 

Ok, are you having a rough day? Because you immediately reminded me of my ex. wife! The TCI converter is not necessarily my friend, I don't love it or anything. I'm not trying to sell garbage and in fact, I have been led to believe that the bolt on style, is supposedly better in some ways. But never mind that thing, I am worried about the potential piece of crap that is installed under my ride connected to my motor. And yes, I do know what lockup is, but maybe you dont know what electronic transmission means? I am no tuning expert and this was before my hp tuner purchase.. Maybe 5 failures were not the stall converters fault? I dont know just saying? Am i being a smart ***? Well, kind of seeing as you felt you needed to come in here with some kind of know it all attitude.<aybe you know lots, but why would I want to ask you about anything that you know? How wise do you think a 3500 stall on a stock transmission with 160,000 miles on it is? It was installed for maybe two weeks max. Dont get me wrong, I loved the stall. My truck sounded frikin bad ***. I love to launch off the line, but it wasn't the right fit for what I wanted in a non-race vehicle. The motor was also tired, another reason for rebuilding the top end. I hope this is not too long of a post for you, I'm just trying to reply to your comments. I do agree that no, matter what size stall, its different than stock. And with electronic everything its much different than a mechanical type trans. Sorry about the difficulty of reading my posts, I'll try to get better, maybe ?

 

Well before I came on here to defend myself, I actually had a reason? Oh ya, you know what that reason was? It was to hopefully post something that would help someone else, not bring out the critics?! If there is something else I have learned about my electronic truck, it would be that it's not like the old days. Electronic sensors can make us think our engine is toast or transmission is toast. In the old days that would have been true, but if you try to use that same old logic with a new electronic vehicle ( any auto made after what 1993?) you will only fool yourself. The transmission in my case seems to be broken. But I'll bet its only electrical, or in the tuning? Something is just not reading something else correctly? Like, for instance, the throttle actuator very well could part or all of this problem because my TPS is not reading correctly. Hec, that in itself can make the computer cut fuel to my engine or even put me into limp mode. It's crazy how it works. Anyway today I was gathering info on the p1870 and here is what it specifically says . For Gm depending on size/model whatever, here is the definition of what sets off the p1870. " When the vehicle exceeds acceptable RPM parameters, Before shift occurs, this transmission DTC code will be set. To me, that makes me think even more so, that it is only a setting that I can adjust in the tune. Now only if I knew what setting/s would accomplish this? Then get this, once that DTC has set, the PCM elevates the transmission main line pressure and stops converter clutch apply. Is anyone hearing this? This is the kind of thing that makes people think an electronic transmission is toast when it, in fact, is not? I will take a break now . Thanks for some of the input. CyA

 

Funny. I thought you sounded like my wife too by taking **** the wrong way. I’ll remove myself from the convo. I was trying to help and maybe in a slight smartass kind of way, that’s just me. I’m like that in person, it helps to weed out the thin skin and sensitive people. I built a bunch of these transmissions too by the way. So that may qualify me as a know it all? Anyways, good luck to you on figuring it out.

 

No, you don't need to take your post away. It's good, and I don't mind. You woke me up. Haha. No seriously, I won't act that way. Thanks for your input. I'm not exactly happy with myself, to be quite honest. I haven't exactly purchased the best things, even though I thought and spent the money on what I thought were the best? Live and learn. My biggest mistake is Monster. Oh man, my patients are all gone after waiting two months for a transmission. Then I get it and its a piece of crap. I am not even going to bother contacting them. They are bad business and advertise their lies somehow every day. The other part that doesn't allow for mistakes is the emissions here in Kalifornia. Yes, wish I could just pack up and move, but it's not so simple. I apologize for being a smart ***. I'm sure you do know more than me. It is just a matter of getting to know you. And because of your reply, Now I do. So stick around and set me straight, I'm ok with it .

 

I Just wanted to say that everyone that has chimed in, has in some way helped me. Everyone! Thank you, even the stuff I don't like to hear, thanks for making me hear it.
Now bbond105 has helped me to see that this transmission does indeed have a mechanical problem. Meaning that it's no different than the rest of the garbage that Monster Transmission throws together. I have figured out what their"process" is. The one that they make such a big deal of. Oh, 1st we look over your order and make sure blah blah, then we send it through blah blah, then blah blah blah blah. It is all a delay tactic, so they can take their time to send you what they should have countless numbers of on their racks. There are more 4l60e/4l65e transmissions than any other transmission, yet they needed to take two months to get me one. I knew I made a big mistake the moment I pressed submit, to pay for my order. Because it was at that moment that I realized to myself, hey hold on a second, where is my shipping date? TOO late! As soon as I hit that button, I was guaranteed to have to pay money, no matter what. Instantly, even though they do nothing for the first two weeks, they will charge you a restocking fee. So although I figured a transmission in a few days, I had no choice but to wait for its arrival no matter how long it took. And to top it off, I had already gotten rid of my core so my new Transmission was coming with absolutely no warranty. What a surprise. Why not just throw together anything because if it breaks what are my choices and what will they lose other than another customer. They lied to me over and over again. They sent a broken transmission to me and there is nothing I can do about it as far as making them make it right. I would not have them touch a thing of mine ever. Even if I had a warranty from what I've read and been told good luck. At the least, you will be waiting for another few months and I am sure paying even more money to get something right that should have been right the first time. Yes, I do blame myself, so no need to tell me I am an idiot. My truck has been down since November 2018. Still, it goes nowhere. I will drain the fluid today and report back. CyA

 

I forgot. The actuator that was supposed to arrive on Thursday is MIA? It is somewhere unknown to everyone. But they have been paid already. The wonderful world of shipping and the web. So last night I tuned for my transmission just because. This is before I accepted the fact that its toast. I only tuned under the transmission section, and even then I only changed a few parameters per info I have. I wrote the tune to my truck and got in and started it. Holy crap, it started and the way it revved up and the feel of my pedal was like a new truck? The response was immediate no lag but I was in park not moving. But I could tell the difference in the way it responded and sounded. I got all excited thinking, yes, finally the right direction, oh and the transmission seemed to work?( just for a few seconds it shifted through the gears, while still at a standstill, it wanted to move). I shut it off and thought ok. Time for a test drive. I restarted it a little while later and once again it sounded like crap and guess what no gears. Not going anyplace so forget the test drive. So back to starting over. I have the GM process of elimination to follow so I will be starting that soon. I am bummed because I have a really big reason that I needed my truck to be up and running(like I had it running beautifully in October 2018) for tomorrow. This whole time I needed it for Sunday the 9th of June 2019. Monster transmission stalled me by more than two months and now because of the crap they gave me, has ruined my plans. I thought no problem I would have been done months ago and I would have if not for monster and my ignorance for ordering from them in the first place. I will keep you updated.

 

I am back, but luckily for anyone reading this, I won't have time for something tooooo long to write. haha. You know, it sucks to spend your time and money (hard earned money) on something, anything and to have it unfinished. I mean at least when we die we won't give a #@$%/. But I'm alive so I do give a @#$%! I drained the fluid from the transmission and it is fresh and clean. No odor and looks brand new. No pieces of anything anywhere. I guess I'm thankful for that, but I don't know? What I do know is that I will perform two separate possible cures. Well, one is a test and one is a reset. I will do the easiest thing first of course. I will reset TAPS. The reason being if the DTC p1870 changes line pressure then I want to be sure it is not interfering with my line pressure now. Not knowing exactly when what does what, or when what stops doing what, I thought I'd give a try to reset the transmission adaptive pressure, just like you have to do when you put a new transmission in, or mess with your transmission, like as in with a torque converter. Even if that works the next thing I will perform is what GM refers to as The M32 Road Test. Just like the DTC codes its the process of elimination. I know it works because that's how I fixed my p0300. It takes patience and techII scan tools and all, which I have plus I have hptunerspro. The problem for me is deciphering what it all means and sometimes I need something to compare to. Thats where I will leave off on this post. If I ever do find the solution, I'm coming back. I will post as I find anything new and I promise to follow through till it is fixed or I'm dead or well you get the point. Can't leave this post unanswered now can I? My truck is being replaced by a Filipina. haha What I mean is well never mind. (No I am not getting rid of the truck, that I know of)haha. They are jealous of each other, because who I spend my time with more. She arrives tomorrow... Hint Hint. Maybe this is why my truck is not running right?
CyA

 

Howdy Ho Neighbors, (haha)
Didn't think that I'd forget about you did you? (Actually, with the way I seem to be forgetting things these days, I'm kind of surprised myself that I actually remembered something).
In my last post, I ended it with somewhat of a warning that I was not going to have as much time to spend on my Truck, because of ummm other things.
However, right now I escaped just long enough to bore you with my latest findings. Keep in mind, I have not spent much time on this truck situation at all for the past 17 days, but who's counting?Hahahehehoho. Seriously now, here is the latest 411 for you. Yes, this has been eating away at my mind daily. Even if the transmission is toast, I am not yet ready to accept that as an answer. I mean it is possible seeing as it was thrown together by a bunch of %$#@holes.Maybe it is garbage, but to many things that tell me otherwise. So I do have my reasons for hoping it is something somewhat simple, yet realize it may not be easy to find? Even though it seemingly has the P1870 code, I have to keep in mind that it did work in the beginning. I am starting to think it may have to do with pressure/fluid or warm up/closed loop? Some of these things have been mentioned on this post by others before today. I can get into my truck right now (has not been started since last night), start it up and put it into any/every gear and it moves as it should. Yet over the next 1-2 minutes of time, the movement becomes less and less until it moves no more. In order to move it before it won't move at all, I have to rev it way up high of course, like its slipping away or like it has no fluid in it? Then if I wait 5 or 10 minutes and try it again, it will move but still at higher RPMs only. Apparently, it takes a little while for whatever to get enough fluid through or cool down enough to repeat the working process for another 2 minutes or so? Or maybe to wait for the next key on to put me into some sort of limp mode? I also understand that the reason for this(truck not moving) could actually be the p1870 code? It put pressure into the lines and who knows what else because of the TCM/PCM thinks it knows whatever and is trying to protect the transmission? Maybe it's in limp mode I do not know? I have re-tuned some things and tried. I have put it back to stock and tried. Same thing. The bad thing about putting back to stock is it throws p0300 codes cause of the cam. I think anyway? What a frikin mess! Oh yes, I did end up finally receiving the throttle actuator and installed it but can't tell if anything is better or worse because I need to drive it to get some monitors to set until then I am limited on info. Even my HP pro tuner can only do so much. It will probably end up being a pressure valve or something? I will have to pull the transmission out again for the 5th time or maybe it's the 6th time? There are many things I need to check over, especially the things that I could have screwed up like wiring or connectors, or maybe a pinched hose, or who knows, maybe the torque converter? Could just need something specific tuned like for the stall speed converter or the different first gear ratio?
MY NEW QUESTIONS ARE: I am really interested in knowing what it is that makes the commanded gear different between my tech2 and truck readings? I have a different tech 2, not my HP tuners and I did some tech 2 testing and my commanded gear on my truck read 4th gear but according to my tech 2, it was supposed to read that it was in 1st? Yes under the same conditions as the tech 2 required. I figure that is why my 2-3 solenoid was off instead of on like its suppose to be? This could very well be key to pinpointing the actual cause and thus finally a fix? Ya right! Anyways, I will keep updating until either the truck kills me or I kill the truck....Oh, just one more thing, I wish I'd never touched anything on my Truck! CyA

 

Tip: maybe cut the story telling down to about half. I lost interest about half way. No offense.

1) have you dropped the pan? Yes or no? No story needed. Just kidding. Or am I? Lol

2) if you have not dropped the pan, I’ll make a prediction. You’ll have a nice black and grey mess at the bottom. The cold movement is typical of a burnt trans.

3) could be the pump but I doubt it seriously. Sounds like burnt clutches. When the trans is pulled apart, whoever is doing it will likely find a cut oring, missing oring, leaky valve body or weak or incorrectly assembled pump.

 

Yes I know, I know. Yes the pan was dropped and the transmission fluid looked absolutely brand new just like when i put it in just a couple months ago. Nothing in the pan. Thinking its Torque Converter, missing or as you say cut o-ring, or the pump. Something that is either restricting fluid flow or getting hot quickly, or possibly bad wire connect? Maybe fluid is restricted and not enough flowing through the lines while it is running and then after it sits for awhile enough fluid is built up with pressure to allow the trans to work for a few minutes? Any iudeas about the commanded gear vs tech 2 ? As in what would make me have a commanded gear of 4th instead of 1st like it should be?I have searched and so far cannot find anything about it ? Anyway thanks for the feedback. CyA

 

Day Number??? Ha ya, I'm trying to block out the fact that my ride is still sitting in my garage collecting dust! Just here to leave an update and also to say thanks to the brilliant minds that have shared past experiences through replies and posts and that kind of thing. In some strange way, they have made me think about all of my mistakes, and how my choices have affected my outcome. Haha, I'm kidding, I don't need help making mistakes, I admit it. Seriously thanks to, MaroonMonsterLS1, bbond105, Jaysssz28, and Kfxguy for your input and views. No, I'm not handing out cash rewards or anything. My latest update is as follows. Started all over again from stock tune. After about 5 minutes I had enough and got pissed off and decided that I was going to have to force myself to go back to the basics. Check wires and connectors and tackle my DTC engine codes before i even think about the transmission. In a way Jaysssz28 was right. Without really realizing it, I think I was trying to tune out a problem. So today i also noticed a loud clicking noise when I turned on the key. I figured it was the TPS sensor on the side of the throttle body. I was kind of correct, except it was not just the TPS sensor, it was the throttle body mechanism with the gears that the TPS controls. My TB was flopping around not opening or closing all the way. I do have another ordered and most of all, this is the problem behind pretty much all of my DTC codes and possibly my p1870 code as well. Cause if the TPS isn't working correctly, it can cause misfires which in turn can cause the p1870 code. Yes too true, believe it or not, one thing can and does lead to another when it comes to our computerized rides...........I will keep you updated. I don't want to get excited or anything, but this could be "THE PROBLEM"! The root cause of many other problems .. I can only hope. CyA L8ter

 

1870 is an easy fix drop the valvebody and replace the TC valve made by transgo

 

I see many problems so let me just throw some basic trouble shooting ideas that I have not seen mentioned (must admit I didn't read all of it though)
I assume you have HPtuners

I didn't see anywhere yet that you
1. checked the transmission fluid level is properly full, and warming to 150-165*F and not exceeding 180-190*F (most automatics). If its over or under full it will create all kinds of problems so this needs to be done properly. You can't check the fluid when the transmission is cold or has been sitting either. Make sure you know how to properly do this
2. checked the transmission pressure using an appropriate gauge. There is a gauge port on the side for a specific kind of trans-pressure gauge and when using computer control transmissions and especially with shift kits, the pressure needs to be monitored manually so that the trans can be properly tuned.
'they say' (i've done it) that you can do this 'by feel' but that isn't recommended for beginners.
3. verified the converter pull out (distance between converter and engine the converter 'pulls' towards the flexplate) is set properly (this can lead to pump issues)

From what I can tell you are struggling because this stuff is new and its emissions state. I hate to say this but the emissions factor doubles the complexity of tuning an engine in my opinion. If you can get rid of all that junk anyway possible I think the engine would seem much more simple.

Some basics suggestions:
A. Take some time to read the megasquirt, AEM, and Haltech tuning manuals if you get a chance. The HPtuners software is very well done piece, but the factory computer is perhaps three to ten times more complicated than a traditional stand-alone. It could be said that the factory ~$80 computer is much more difficult to deal with than a $2000 stand alone systems.
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/
http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/...ull-Manual.pdf

B. take a look at basic electronics beginners courses, learn resistance, current, voltage, capacitance, what a transistor/diode/transformer is, take what you learned from the manuals about triggers, throttle position voltage, temperature sensor resistance, maf sensor frequency, and put it all together conceptually will make your life much easier for diagnosing problems

C. learn how to utilize the scanner effectively will help dramatically
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...8776#post78776
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...e-tuning-guide

D. search around the internet for some handy tuning guides and similar posts to help learn how engines work better
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2746266

 

Kingtalon, Thank you!

 

I have to apologize once again. The terms I used regarding the throttle body. The gears which operate the butterfly/throttle plate is where the problem rests. The plate was binding not fully opening or closing. The smell of fuel was very strong. It also made the air intake give wrong readings. Seeing as I already replaced the TPS Actuator, the TPS, the MAF, the MAP, the connectors and wiring to most of these, and tested the accelerator pedal sensors, which were fine, there was not much more for me to check, except for the Throttle Body itself. At this time, this is what I am waiting for to fix the problems. I'll keep you updated. Thanks again for the replies, they all help in some way. CyA

 

To answer some of the things you mention. I am not to new to this stuff, except the electronics end of things. I have been learning the testing procedures and how to use the multimeter in many applications, that's my weakest point. The emissions most definitely make this much more difficult, no doubt about that. I am no stranger to the logic based procedures that GM gives when investigating trouble codes. I have spent at least a year reading posts, threads, books, listened to ad watched videos and on and on, still learning much. I have been involved with mechanics since 5 years old, just not as a career. I have purchased some good tuning guides and even though my brain is ready to explode with information, I continue to desire more and more knowledge. I do own the HP tuners Mpv1 2 pro, also a handheld tech 2 scan/reader/writer, plus an Innova 31003 reader. Yes, I have dropped the pan, even though its a new transmission, checked the fluid, checked the converter(which I will probably replace anyways now, just because), checked electrical connectors(will be wiring in a new pigtail the correct way on my neutral safety connector also known as the range switch connector, and continue to test sensors and connections until I find the root cause of the problems . I honestly believe that most if not all of these problems will be fixed with the new throttle body. If someone doesn't know how the throttle body can have anything to do with the P1870 code, just read a post r two before this one. Thank you for the input and I will definitely follow up on your advice. The problems with the pressure in the transmission at this time is because of the P1870. After that is repaired I will be monitoring the pressure. I have a trans. cooler already installed a year or so ago. Trans. temp has not been a problem yet. I'll be back. CyA