First 4l80e build. Here we go!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
First 4l80e build. Here we go! After reading lots of threads and watching hours of YouTube vids, I am ready to give this a go. My engine will only make 450hp or so to start but I would like to go turbo someday and I didn't want to blow up a 4l60e. Im on a tight budget so I am going to take a crack at this myself.
Thanks to clinebarger for the informative posts and truckdoug for the helpful YouTube vids.
Here is the plan so far:
-Dual feed using Jakes Performance recalibration kit I already have
-Upgrade to a stronger intermediate clutch spring assembly
-Replace whatever clutches and seals I need to along the way
-Tighten up the friction clearances
-rollerize the output and possible rollerize the forward hub.
-Sonnax tcc regulator valve kit
-Sonnax line pressure booster kit
-HD intermediate snap ring
If there are any other must-do modifications or anyone has any other input, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!
Here is what I am starting with. It's a 1994 4l80e:
https://imgur.com/a/iZecaWo
Thanks to clinebarger for the informative posts and truckdoug for the helpful YouTube vids.
Here is the plan so far:
-Dual feed using Jakes Performance recalibration kit I already have
-Upgrade to a stronger intermediate clutch spring assembly
-Replace whatever clutches and seals I need to along the way
-Tighten up the friction clearances
-rollerize the output and possible rollerize the forward hub.
-Sonnax tcc regulator valve kit
-Sonnax line pressure booster kit
-HD intermediate snap ring
If there are any other must-do modifications or anyone has any other input, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!
Here is what I am starting with. It's a 1994 4l80e:
https://imgur.com/a/iZecaWo
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
I'm wondering if these clutches even need replacing. I can still see the writing
https://i.imgur.com/tJEtbAQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tJEtbAQ.jpg
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
the OD clutches and the overrun clutches will likely have the writing on them in 90% of 80e's you pull apart
For a customer unit I will always replace.
For a personal unit...those clutches will go another 100k miles
For a customer unit I will always replace.
For a personal unit...those clutches will go another 100k miles
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Thanks! I really appreciate it! Since this is the first time having one apart, I just don't know how good ones are supposed to look. I will pull the remaining frictions tonight and post up another pic. I suppose I can set the clutch clearance by using thicker steels if necessary. What do you usually shoot for regarding clearance?
Last edited by Novapat67; Aug 10, 2020 at 03:29 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
I was definitely surprised how it looks inside as I was told it was sitting in a field under a tarp for several years and had an inch thick layer of mud all over it. Can't judge a book by it's cover!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Trending Topics
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
The friction plates are cheap enough...
The ones you have look decent, but they are the older design/ material for the Forward, Intermediate, and Direct clutch packs.
I would recommend at least purchasing the newer material (High Energy Borg-Warner) friction plates for those 3 clutch packs.
The ones you have look decent, but they are the older design/ material for the Forward, Intermediate, and Direct clutch packs.
I would recommend at least purchasing the newer material (High Energy Borg-Warner) friction plates for those 3 clutch packs.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
I also do not recommend using the Forward, and Direct apply pistons that you have.
Sometimes they work perfectly for a long time... and other times they crack out of no where!
There is an updated design (Steel instead of cast Aluminum) for these also.
Sometimes they work perfectly for a long time... and other times they crack out of no where!
There is an updated design (Steel instead of cast Aluminum) for these also.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
.010 per clutch for fwd/int/dir
use the green high energy as stated
When vortec mentions the steel pistons, he is referring to what are commonly called "molded" pistons. Where the lip seal is molded right onto the piston. may be easier for you to find them that way.
For the directs, a molded piston, with 6 frictions and 6 of the thin forward (.077) steels will fit like a dream and usually nail the clearance with no other changes
use the green high energy as stated
When vortec mentions the steel pistons, he is referring to what are commonly called "molded" pistons. Where the lip seal is molded right onto the piston. may be easier for you to find them that way.
For the directs, a molded piston, with 6 frictions and 6 of the thin forward (.077) steels will fit like a dream and usually nail the clearance with no other changes
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
I also do not recommend using the Forward, and Direct apply pistons that you have.
Sometimes they work perfectly for a long time... and other times they crack out of no where!
There is an updated design (Steel instead of cast Aluminum) for these also.
Sometimes they work perfectly for a long time... and other times they crack out of no where!
There is an updated design (Steel instead of cast Aluminum) for these also.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
center seal on the fwd drum does NOTHING other than slow the apply rate of the piston. Helps keep parking lot shifts from neutral to drive softer.
That's it.
Direct drum center seal splits two separate hydraulic circuits.
Removing that seal and plugging the center support feed will "dual feed" the clutches.
Otherwise...yes...use a 1997+ paper/rubber and friction kit.
That's it.
Direct drum center seal splits two separate hydraulic circuits.
Removing that seal and plugging the center support feed will "dual feed" the clutches.
Otherwise...yes...use a 1997+ paper/rubber and friction kit.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
center seal on the fwd drum does NOTHING other than slow the apply rate of the piston. Helps keep parking lot shifts from neutral to drive softer.
That's it.
Direct drum center seal splits two separate hydraulic circuits.
Removing that seal and plugging the center support feed will "dual feed" the clutches.
Otherwise...yes...use a 1997+ paper/rubber and friction kit.
That's it.
Direct drum center seal splits two separate hydraulic circuits.
Removing that seal and plugging the center support feed will "dual feed" the clutches.
Otherwise...yes...use a 1997+ paper/rubber and friction kit.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
I picked up a rebuild kit at the local transtar and grabbed an extra clutch and friction while I was there. Just waiting on a few parts to come in on Tuesday and then I can jump right in!
What is that cylinder around the output shaft? I have not seen that on other 4l80e's I've looked at.
Here are some pics:
https://imgur.com/a/CkUAfKf
What is that cylinder around the output shaft? I have not seen that on other 4l80e's I've looked at.
Here are some pics:
https://imgur.com/a/CkUAfKf
its a sleeve with an o ring that seals on the outside of the yoke. works really well in conjunction with a breather-hole type slip yoke to prevent fluid seep when the car is raised or parked on a hill
i usually remove them and weld the hole on the yoke.
i usually remove them and weld the hole on the yoke.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by truckdoug
its a sleeve with an o ring that seals on the outside of the yoke. works really well in conjunction with a breather-hole type slip yoke to prevent fluid seep when the car is raised or parked on a hill
i usually remove them and weld the hole on the yoke.
i usually remove them and weld the hole on the yoke.
Also, thank you so much for all your videos on YouTube. They are super helpful and have given me the confidence to tackle this myself!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by truckdoug
usually only see that sleeve on fully splined output shafts, but i don't know it all
they are very easy to remove. couple soft boops with a deadblow and they'll come right off. you do have to remove them to get at the rear case seal and thrust bushing/bearing