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So I took another look at it and even with no waveplate, with 6x .077 steels, and 6 frictions, my clearance was actually just under .040. I added back the waveplate, and went back to 5 frictions and steels(a combo of .090 and .077 steels and now my clearance is .053 which I think is good.
I'm going to try to pick up a waveplate tomorrow and take a crack at the forwards. If the old steels were in decent shape, is it a bad idea to use 1 or 2 if need be to get the clearance right or should I just pick up another couple of new steels? Thanks for the help everyone!
If your power level stays low... 5 frictions (when dual-feed) in the direct clutch pack will hold just fine.
You should be eliminating the 3rd Accumulator, when dual-feeding the direct clutch (and ideally eliminate the waved steel-plate in the direct as well).
0.053" clearance is fine for the direct clutch.
You can obtain an early THM400 Direct apply piston that has been machined for some more clutch clearance (CK even sells them, but you have to call and ask) if you want to play with 6 frictions (not a big deal in this situation).
So it sounds like I should be good with 6x .077 steels, 6x frictions, and no wave plate with that setup. I was hoping I would have enough room for 6 by switching to the molded piston and .077 steels but I guess not. I can definitely get the ck piece.
I already have a block off plate for the accumulator delete from Jakes Performance.
Should I leave the wave plate(I have the concave version not the wavy version, on the forwards? Is 5 clutches and steels ok for the forwards?
Thanks for all the help. I'm just trying to do it right the first time!
However that piston may have too much material machined off of it.
Call them and explain which components you have... they will give you a piston that has been machined to the correct height.
However that piston may have too much material machined off of it.
Call them and explain which components you have... they will give you a piston that has been machined to the correct height.
Thanks! I spoke to them this morning. They said it is out of stock currently but the year shouldn't matter. I'll use the concave cushion plate I was using in the direct for the forward and get that set in the meantime.
So I tried to put together the forward clutch tonight. I put in 5x frictions and 5x .077 steels with a waveplate and there is 0 clearance. I can't even get the snap ring to seat. Just seems like something is off. I'll try to get some .060 steels to get close to .050 clearance.
Looks like you are using a bonded steel forward apply piston (good).
The piston may not be all the way down in the bore of the drum...
That smaller bonded seal that goes into the forward drum:
Can sometimes keep the forward piston from going all the way down.
Also when you replaced the seal in the photo... did you install it all the way?
Double check that all of your steel plates are 0.077" thick, and that all your friction plates are the correct size.
You can also try a "Traditional" waved-steel plate instead of the "Concave" Bellville steel plate.
If no luck... you can get two 0.060" steel plate to replace two of the 0.077" steel plates...
Last edited by vorteciroc; Sep 5, 2020 at 12:11 AM.
The forward clutch can have less clearance than 10 thou. per clutch (0.050") as it is only released for use in the Reverse gear range.
You can get by with 0.020" total clearance in the forward clutch if need be (the waved steel also takes up some of the clearance, compared to when it is flattened out from the clutch being applied).
Looser clearance than 0.060" can start to make shifting from Park to Forward more harsh.
I actually left that seal out because it wouldn't seat all the way. I did confirm the piston is all the way down. I'll grab a new wave plate and some .060 steels next week.
I actually left that seal out because it wouldn't seat all the way. I did confirm the piston is all the way down. I'll grab a new wave plate and some .060 steels next week.
Omitting that seal is definitely going to make shifting in to gear from park or neutral more firm/ harsh.
You definitely want a waved steel plate in there, and minimum clutch clearance to prevent too firm of an engagement.
I picked up a thinner wave plate and some .060 steels. I have the clearance set at .025 with the new wave plate. Is that ok or should I loosen it up with the wave plate in there? Thanks
On another note. Is there any way around buying the 4th clutch lip seal tools? Can I just use the existing seals if there are in good shape? I'm trying to avoid buying too many special tools that I might only use once.
Your "shift-kit" requires NO plug for the direct clutch "Dual-Feed" modification.
Jake's kit essentially eliminates a hole in the separator plate instead of using a plug.
No "Special Tools" are needed for the 4th clutch piston seals... Installing this piston can sometimes be a pain in the *** though...
You will need to use one or another type of "Tradition Auto. Trans. Lip-Seal tool".
Here is a video of Cameron installing the 4th piston with one type of Lip-Seal tool:
I got a new sprag for the reaction carrier as the springs in the original one were worn out. I got one with feet first but I exchanged it for one without as that is what was in there originally.
I test fit everything last night. It fits in the reaction carrier great and also fits around the race on the center support just fine. When I try to insert the center support into the reaction carrier, it will not go in for some reason. Am I missing something or do I just need to wiggle it more?
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