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I got a very similar kit. I opted for the one with new pistons. That being said, I ended up using the direct piston from cp. I would buy this kit and then buy whatever pistons you need on top of that so you don't have extra parts.
I took another look at the direct piston last night. I must have been more tired than I thought the other night when I was working on this. I did not have the inner direct piston seal installed. I think it is kinda odd that the ck piston kit did not come with seals. I will call today to see if they have the correct part numbers i need for the seals. That should help tighten things up
These types of pistons, more often than not... are sold without seals.
It seems to be very common for a seal somewhere to be forgot on DIY builds...
LOL! I find this, when I tear down units that a DIY builder could not get working...
I just sent out an experimental 4L80E in a 3,500 HP Drag-Week car.
I expect that he will be swapping-out the Over-Drive section a few times (I gave him 3 spares).
Check out the size of the pinion for the 9" Ford style Diff that I just installed (12" ring-gear on the far right).
9" Ford Pinions from left to right: 9.5" ring-gear, 10" ring-gear, 12" ring-gear.
Fair enough. So far I have not been able to find the seals anywhere local. Transtar can only sell them in a kit that's $50. It seems like my best option so far is to order them online for $25 shipped. Oh well
What is your address?
I've probably got 100 on a hook if you need some
Have you stopped by a local trans shop and made friends? Most are good guys that will help you out if you ask...just be sure to also ask for some of their business cards so you can hand them out to locals that may need some work done.
So since I picked up a .070 wave plate, I installed the intermediate clutch pack after soaking the clutches in atf overnight. After putting it together, there is no clearance. I know it previously measured at .115 without the wave plate which should leave me at .045 now. I'm thinking the "wave" in the plate might be .045. Is this ok?
So since I picked up a .070 wave plate, I installed the intermediate clutch pack after soaking the clutches in atf overnight. After putting it together, there is no clearance. I know it previously measured at .115 without the wave plate which should leave me at .045 now. I'm thinking the "wave" in the plate might be .045. Is this ok?
Generally clutch-pack clearances should be measured/ inspected while the clutch plates are dry.
The better friction materials will absorb the ATF (not all that dis-similarly to a sponge) and grow... reducing clearance, and skewing a clearance measurement (WET).
Also the "waved" steels (or even waved frictions) are states in terms of plate thickness... (0.070" here) but are actually taller (meaning thicker over-all from wave-crest to wave-crest).
Thus the "waved" steel plate actually takes up more clearance than the 0.070" noted plate thickness.
You can apply pressure to the entire clutch-pack with your hand (compressing the waved steel) to get a better idea of the clearance with the waved steel being flattened-out.
With the clutch-pack compressed... you should have a measured clearance closer to your 0.045" calculation, less clearance taken up by the wet friction material.
With 4 BW HE frictions being used in the intermediate clutch... 0.045" clearance will be fine.
The BW HE friction material makes for a good clutch in the intermediate location... it helps soften the 1-2 clutch; protecting the intermediate sprag.
For example; using flat, plain, tan paper frictions in the intermediate clutch, will produce a harder 1-2 shift (there is not need to do so... there are better ways to change the feel of the 1-2 shift).
As another example; when using a 36-element intermediate sprag... I will go to a more aggressive friction material here; and not worry about the intermediate sprag.
Just a word of warning to anybody reading my last post, right before this one...
There is a huge effort in the transmission building industry, to try and make people think that some clutch materials are a magical solution in order to make a transmission work!
There is too much "Hype" around clutch materials (kolene treated steel plates as well).
There are some instances where clutch material can make a decent difference...
But in general the hydraulics are far more important than the clutch material.
In most situations; with the hydraulics done properly... most any clutch material should be able to work.
The same goes for kolene steels... I rarely use them, except in a few specific use cases.
Another example of where a certain friction material can make a difference is:
In some situations; when using a trans-brake THM400, I will use OEM GM-Allison clutches as they are very aggressive, and can improve the performance of the trans-brake. These frictions will often eat up the steel plates before the friction material ever wears.
The friction plates from an Allison AT540/ AT543/ AT545 4th clutch, will interchange with the THM400 Forward/ Direct friction plates.
Thanks for the explanation. I felt confident in my measurements so I went ahead and soaked the clutches. I guess I should have double checked after I got the wave plate. Is it common to basically have no clearance when you factor in the wave? My thinking is that as long as here is some give with the wave plate, I should have the clearance I need. Thanks again for all the help. This has been such a great learning experience.
Another example of where a certain friction material can make a difference is:
In some situations; when using a trans-brake THM400, I will use OEM GM-Allison clutches as they are very aggressive, and can improve the performance of the trans-brake. These frictions will often eat up the steel plates before the friction material ever wears.
The friction plates from an Allison AT540/ AT543/ AT545 4th clutch, will interchange with the THM400 Forward/ Direct friction plates.
are these the "waffle frictions" ? I use those in the direct and GPZ's with a wavy plate in the fwd for ck-style 80e transbrake (fixed line pressure)
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