First 4l80e build. Here we go!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
I was able to get the boost valve out And installed the new one. Thanks for the tip about pushing it from the back! I was also able to get the direct and forward assemblies installed which feels like a big step forward! I set up the frictions and steels in the 4th clutch and came up with .065 clearance. That sounds good to me so I will soak the frictions so that I can do the final assembly. I started working on the pump as I needed to drill a hole and put a new seal. I took a look at the bushing, and it's completely roasted. So crispy! I will grab a new one tomorrow and install that. Feels good to be on the homestretch with this thing.
I still need to assemble the last few pieces and then measure the servo travel and adjust if necessary, install the new TCC regulator valve kit, and do some valve body mods!
Is there a way to measure front endplay without and specialty tools?
Thanks again for everyone's help along the way!
Some more pics!
https://imgur.com/a/kU04ODx
I still need to assemble the last few pieces and then measure the servo travel and adjust if necessary, install the new TCC regulator valve kit, and do some valve body mods!
Is there a way to measure front endplay without and specialty tools?
Thanks again for everyone's help along the way!
Some more pics!
https://imgur.com/a/kU04ODx
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
Last night, I installed the tcc regulator kit, cleaned up the valve body, and air tested all the clutches. Everything looks good. Tonight I'm going to try to measure front endplay. Can I do this with the direct and forward assemblies installed? I saw a few articles which mentioned possibly leaving the clutches out.
If everything looks good. I can get pretty close to buttoning this baby up! Thanks again for all the help along the way!
If everything looks good. I can get pretty close to buttoning this baby up! Thanks again for all the help along the way!
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
Test as is
Not sure what you have rear endplay set to...when rollerizing the output I find .005 +/-.002 is a good place to shoot for
Then you want front endplay to be about .007 +/- .001 WIDER than the rear
so, for example...if rear endplay is .004.......then you'll want front endplay to be about .010-.012
There are different thickness thrust washers availible that go against the pump. OR, if you have a lathe and you're rollerizing the fwd hub...use how much you cut off of the hub as your method of changing endplay
The thrust washers are in steps of .011 I believe. So, if you need to choose between two thicknesses...for front endplay, err on the loose side a bit
Not sure what you have rear endplay set to...when rollerizing the output I find .005 +/-.002 is a good place to shoot for
Then you want front endplay to be about .007 +/- .001 WIDER than the rear
so, for example...if rear endplay is .004.......then you'll want front endplay to be about .010-.012
There are different thickness thrust washers availible that go against the pump. OR, if you have a lathe and you're rollerizing the fwd hub...use how much you cut off of the hub as your method of changing endplay
The thrust washers are in steps of .011 I believe. So, if you need to choose between two thicknesses...for front endplay, err on the loose side a bit
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
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From: Tucson, AZ
So I went to check the front endplay tonight. I have the transmission hanging on the stand. There is a stop, and then if I lift really hard, it goes a lot further. So either I'm at .012 which is perfect, or 0.085 which is way too much. Do I have something really screwed up?
Here is a video of me checking it:
https://imgur.com/a/CDKEQk5
Here is a video of me checking it:
https://imgur.com/a/CDKEQk5
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i think that first movement would be the input shaft to overrun sun snapring play and the second would be the front endplay.
.080 is a lot.
for a sanity check, pull the pump off. place a pump gasket on the case and use a 10" straight edge from the cooler feed hole at the 9 oclock position to a pump bolt hole at the 4 or 5 oclock position. you should be able to lay the thrust selective washer on the overrun housing face and check front endplay with a feeler gauge. I shoot for .015 here as gasket compresses a bit when you torque the pump down (18ft/lbs)
.080 is a lot.
for a sanity check, pull the pump off. place a pump gasket on the case and use a 10" straight edge from the cooler feed hole at the 9 oclock position to a pump bolt hole at the 4 or 5 oclock position. you should be able to lay the thrust selective washer on the overrun housing face and check front endplay with a feeler gauge. I shoot for .015 here as gasket compresses a bit when you torque the pump down (18ft/lbs)
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
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From: Tucson, AZ
I just checked it and the overrun housing actually sits above the gasket mounting surface in the case. I'm thinking maybe the forward or direct clutch is not seated all the way?
I know Wood is not a good straightedge but everything I have is over 12". I will pick up a shorter piece tomorrow but the wood illustrates the point.
I reinstalled the forward and direct and it looks ok. Any ideas?
Here are some more pics/videos:
https://imgur.com/a/HnegpCc
I know Wood is not a good straightedge but everything I have is over 12". I will pick up a shorter piece tomorrow but the wood illustrates the point.
I reinstalled the forward and direct and it looks ok. Any ideas?
Here are some more pics/videos:
https://imgur.com/a/HnegpCc
Last edited by Novapat67; Oct 25, 2020 at 07:29 PM.
yeah that forward and direct definately look seated. have a look at the overrun clutch assembly. i show how it *should* look in this post here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20288515
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20288515
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
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From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by truckdoug
yeah that forward and direct definately look seated. have a look at the overrun clutch assembly. i show how it *should* look in this post here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20288515
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20288515
I took the shaft out of the overrun and wiggled it and got it to drop down one more. After reinstalling everything, I've got about .014 between the selectable washer and the straightedge. I have a metal one getting delivered tomorrow so I will check it one last time before buttoning it up. Whew!
The first pic is of how it was sitting. Still needed to drop down more.
https://imgur.com/a/i3afFqH
Last edited by Novapat67; Oct 26, 2020 at 11:54 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
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From: Tucson, AZ
The saga continues. I have now broken off 2 of the 4th clutch bolts. I have gotten both of them out. I was torquing them to 18 lbft when they snapped. It almost seems like the 4th clutch is sitting a little low.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 66
From: Tucson, AZ
In a total bonehead move, I realized that I never installed the output shaft seal and snap ring. So, unfortunately I will have to disassemble the whole thing. Fortunately, I am getting very good at assembling it haha.
Last night, I checked the endplay using truckdoug's method and got .014 between the selectable washer set on the overrun and the bottom of the straightedge.
I dropped the pump in place with the gasket but it didn't seem to drop down all the way. I torqued down all the bolts to seat it. I measured the endplay again and am getting .040. Very weird. I can't turn the turbine shaft but if I spin the output, it moves smoothly with some resistance. Is that ok?
I will recheck everything again once I reassemble the whole thing with the snap ring and seal in place.
Here is a vid of checking the front endplay with the pump torqued down.
https://imgur.com/a/mOrAyhh
Last night, I checked the endplay using truckdoug's method and got .014 between the selectable washer set on the overrun and the bottom of the straightedge.
I dropped the pump in place with the gasket but it didn't seem to drop down all the way. I torqued down all the bolts to seat it. I measured the endplay again and am getting .040. Very weird. I can't turn the turbine shaft but if I spin the output, it moves smoothly with some resistance. Is that ok?
I will recheck everything again once I reassemble the whole thing with the snap ring and seal in place.
Here is a vid of checking the front endplay with the pump torqued down.
https://imgur.com/a/mOrAyhh
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
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From: Iowa
In your video, notice how there are two "bumps" when you are lifting the input shaft.
The first bump looks like about 15 thou
Then the second bump takes it to 40
The first pump is the snap ring slop. The snap ring on the input has some gap before it hits the OD carrier.
So, your real measurement is .040-.015=.025
The first bump looks like about 15 thou
Then the second bump takes it to 40
The first pump is the snap ring slop. The snap ring on the input has some gap before it hits the OD carrier.
So, your real measurement is .040-.015=.025
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
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From: Tucson, AZ
I see what you mean, that makes sense. I think I still have a .010 Metal shim left over from setting up the roller bearing for the output shaft. I can just put that under the selectable pump washer. How easy to turn should the turbine shaft be?
Thank you for your help!
Thank you for your help!
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 347
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From: Tucson, AZ
To save myself from tearing the whole transmission apart again, I was able to tap the output shaft seal in with a little bit of assembly grease, a piece of pipe, and a dead blow hammer. It went right in smooth and I have the snap ring in place.
Since I am waiting to hear back out the front endplay, I figured I would take a look at the servo travel as that is one of the last things I have to figure out. It is looking like I have 0.125 of travel. I know under .100 would be better but I'm not sure if this is ok. I could always put a little weld on the end and file it if need be.
Here is a video of me measuring the travel. If I had an old servo cover, I would have used that to make a tool but I didn't want to buy one for a one time use.
https://imgur.com/a/7nYGfsU
Since I am waiting to hear back out the front endplay, I figured I would take a look at the servo travel as that is one of the last things I have to figure out. It is looking like I have 0.125 of travel. I know under .100 would be better but I'm not sure if this is ok. I could always put a little weld on the end and file it if need be.
Here is a video of me measuring the travel. If I had an old servo cover, I would have used that to make a tool but I didn't want to buy one for a one time use.
https://imgur.com/a/7nYGfsU
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
They make different thickness pump washers.
That would be preferable to the shim, but the shim should be OK
Checking servo clearance needs to be done with the servo totally disassembled with only the servo and pin together.
Remove the accumulator, spring, and the spring on the servo pin.
Your clearance "starts" when the seal is totally captured in the sealing bore. Once you can no longer see the seal...count that as zero and go from there.
.100 will be fine.
That would be preferable to the shim, but the shim should be OK
Checking servo clearance needs to be done with the servo totally disassembled with only the servo and pin together.
Remove the accumulator, spring, and the spring on the servo pin.
Your clearance "starts" when the seal is totally captured in the sealing bore. Once you can no longer see the seal...count that as zero and go from there.
.100 will be fine.