Edward Stark

Alright. Lets start with that : We, the trucks have a really small servo in our tranny.
Its the V-6/V-8 servo. So i guess our 2nd feed hole is too small to handle sonnax super hold. Thats why i had low servo pressure when i installed sonnax and the shift from 1 to 2 was slower.
The overall shifts in our truck is smushy and lazy.
Preety much all we need is feed hole specs for a good, firm shifts.

Brando1118Burb

Thanks a lot vorteciroc. I've already learned a ton here in the last 24 hours. I appreciate the advice.
Intermediate Band
Sonnax Extra Wide Intermediate Band-77700-01K

Input Drum/Shaft
Sonnax Smart-Tech Input Housing kit w/ heavy duty input shaft (Sonnax 77733-11KA) 3/4 clutch clearance 040 (Dry) and forward clutch .050 (Dry)
(8) .067" frictions and (7) .095" steels Borg Warner
Stock reverse input drum.

vorteciroc

Target 0.060" for the 2-4 band (0.045" to 0.080" is an acceptable range to be in... grinding the pin can be difficult the first time).

3-4 Clutch, target 0.030" (0.030" to 0.050" is an acceptable range).

Forward Clutch, target 0.045" (0.020" to 0.060" is an acceptable range).

Reverse Input Clutch, target 0.050" (0.040" to 0.070" is an acceptable range).

Brando1118Burb

vorteciroc,
Thanks for this information. I know you and MaroonMonsterLS1 and others have asked for more information about my build so you can assist me better. I'm not trying to be difficult, I just may not know what kind of information you may require. I've tried to provide everything I can think of. Regardless....I'm super thankful for the information you all have given me so far. The internet really does bring us here.....if you google 4L60E transmission questions, the query results are littered with LS1Tech replies. You guys here really do know your stuff. .

MaroonMonsterLS1

For hole sizing,
1-2 shift I'd leave stock
2-3 go .100
3-4 go .093 with blocked accumulator.---I've tried to make the 3-4 in a 4l60e too firm...it's tough to make it overly firm
band release .093
throw away the checkball in the case if you block 4th accum
throw away the #6 checkball in the valve body (next to the bathtub)

DO NOT drill the small feedback holes in the "bottom left" corner of the plate. Transgo says to drill them .093...I don't drill them at all

That combo works well in heavier trucks with a slightly higher stall converter

Brando1118Burb

Thanks Maroon!! I appreciate this!!!!
I'll post back with a checklist of all the suggestions you all have helped provide for me so this can help other "heavy" 4L60E owners.
Just got finished with kfxguy's 4L60E build thread. That is an awesome thread that's also hilarious.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the kind words. Listen to Vorteciroc and MaroonMonsterLS1. They know their ****. Although I havnt had the chance to install my unit yet in the Camaro, my build is a product of their guidance even though I know its way overbuilt for the application but that was my choice. We are lucky they are active and willing to help the ones that are willing to put in the time and effort to understand this platform and transmission tech. Not just want a hand out for information

For the record and for others that might be following this thread OR come across this in the future. Removing #6 overrun check ball is NOT a good idea UNLESS you are using Sonnax 77754-41 HD 2-3 shift valve.

So....using 2-3 Shift valve - remove #6 check ball
not using 2-3 shift valve - do not remove #6 check ball

Also the spacers I made to block 3-2 shift and 3-2 control valves inboard the measurements arent gospel of what to use. Thats just what mine MICd to and I documented it. As long as you block them inboard with anything that can live in oil you will be fine.

Another word of advice, vacuum testing the VB and pump is probably one of the best procedures you can do to this platform and there is PLENTY of info roaming around here regarding this. MaroonMonsterLS1 also graced us with a great build thread to make a vacuum testing tool on the cheap and its pretty crazy what you might find and how it can possibly effect your build in the grand scheme of things and in a big way.

I have learned although the parts you might use for a build is important in some ways, but if one would spend more time learning the hydraulics of this unit, where the engineered problems are, how to fix them, how to look for problems, and how to fix those problems you will have a much better chance at building a mechanically and hydraulically sound unit then the guy making a 10 page thread on what frictions to use for the 3-4 and what gap to set them at.

Good luck with your build. Look forward to your updates.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

For conversation purposes, why would you not go to .110" for 3-4 shift and 2-3 shift on this one?

vorteciroc

I prefer to start out with conservative orifice hole sizes, like Maroon Monster suggested.
Especially if the rear suspension is stock/ old and worn/ loose, ETC...

The orifice hole sizes can always be increased if desired.
Should the truck have the rear suspension modified, more like a Drag Truck would...
Then I would consider larger orifice sizes.

Brando1118Burb

2BFAST,
Thanks for the advice and I'm reading between the lines there in your post. Let me assure you and everyone here: I'm learning. I'm banking what I learn will come out in my future posts. vorteciroc's diagrams and advice and Maroon's lengthy experience and advice are hitting me. Their value here is not lost on me or the rest of the internet, for that matter. My goal is to know the the functions of this trans and how things relate for diagnosis, conversation, innovation,etc.. I like to jump in and inevitably there are mistakes when you do that. But where there's mistakes, there's learning. The goal is to not have so many mistakes that the project becomes a disaster. That is why I ask questions on the forums like these.
Additionally, thanks for the spacer advice. Yes, I used your mic measurements as a marker to cut my spaces a little bigger and sand down accordingly until I can assemble with no movement. Again, a big thanks to all of you for the assistance!

Edward Stark

Thank you so much for this info!
Tomorrow, i'll do exacly what you said and update on what the results are

SSIINN

Edward, I need you to update this post on what your final decision is on spacer plate sizes. I'm currently building very close to the same thing. 02 a Yukon, 11.5:1 cr, 706 heads, TBSS intake w/90mm, 218/222 112+lsa cam, 10"2500 stall tci.
Damn near same trans part list. Used the Sonnax HP kit which includes most of what you listed. Have a 4l78 input drum, 8clutch 8 steel. Dis same thing you did went through all of Dana's posts, Maroon, iroc...im another heavy truck, little more than stock hp/tq. I'm down to just drilling holes, blocking 3-2 and assembly.
Oh corvette 2nd/Sonnax billet 4th as well.

Brando1118Burb

Sorry for the gap in time between posting. Been a busy several days.
From reading several threads on this forum and following Maroon's advice above, here is my 4L60E separator plate strategy so far. My plate is a stock Transgo as seen in the image above. I marked the 1-2 shift as stock because Maroon specifically suggested it. Otherwise, if it's not marked, I'm not planning on modifying it unless you all think I should. I'm open to any/all criticisms/suggestions. You will notice some of my designations have a number encircled near them. These numbers directly correlate with the list below and provide further explanation for the modification.
1. Heavy Duty 2-3 Shift Valve (Sonnax 77754-41)
2. Blocked off 3/4 accumulator with drill and tapped with plug
3. Blocked the 3-2 downshift and 3-2 control valves in the valve body
4. Enlarge hole for a quicker reverse engagement. I am planning on leaving the check ball in place. Any opinions on this?


The Transgo plate seems to have concavities already in place for proper check**** sealing. So I should be able to use the Torlon type b****


Also, just to reiterate some of the mods and attributes of my truck for convenience that may be relevant to the settings on the separator plate image above. Full list of mods for the 4L60E are at the beginning of the thread.
7000lbs 2wd 2003 Chevy Suburban
3:73 diff
3600 stall Yank converter 9.5"
Sonnax 2nd and 4th servos
6.0LS GM hot cam 11:1 compression, 243 heads.

I will be shooting for these clearances per vorteciroc's suggestions:
Originally Posted by vorteciroc View Post
Target 0.060" for the 2-4 band (0.045" to 0.080" is an acceptable range to be in... grinding the pin can be difficult the first time).

3-4 Clutch, target 0.030" (0.030" to 0.050" is an acceptable range).

Forward Clutch, target 0.045" (0.020" to 0.060" is an acceptable range).

Reverse Input Clutch, target 0.050" (0.040" to 0.070" is an acceptable range).



Aluminum spacers for both 3-2 valves (yes, I've placed the smaller yellow spring inside the AFL spring)


Transgo 7-CS springs in the overrun and 3/4 spring cages



Thanks!!

SSIINN

I'm a rookie, but can say since I just went through this Thursday, the TransGo plates are not prepped well for torlon b*lls. Take one set it on the hole, then take a flash light and put under at that ball, you'll see light. Some more than others. I still had to do a little work to get it better.

bbond105

Just place a steel 1/4" check ball over the hole and lightly smack it with a hammer. This should take the rough edges off and make it seal.

SSIINN

Yea that's what I did. Tap tap, check, tap tap check..

Brando1118Burb

SSIINN and bbond105,
Thanks guys. I will definitely do this procedure when It's time to prep the valve body separator plate. I've ordered and received my wire gauge drill bits. Hoping to get some of the professors to approve my separator plate thesis before moving forward. I'm going to work on getting my input and reverse drums assembled with wet clearances. I will post when complete.

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

Good looking build and fun to see someone learning the trade.

I still dont see Sonnax 77964-08K for your build. HIGHLY recommend these as they seal and reduce more leaks in the VB. Remember, the tighter you can get the VB and pump the better this unit will be no matter what parts you put in it.

Brando1118Burb

Hey there 2BFAST.
Rest assured ...these will be installed. I remember you and Maroon and others recommending this mod. I won't complete my build without them.

Edward Stark

How much of these we need? 2 or replace every cap with this one?