01 Camaro going T56 to 4l80e. I see that everyone cuts out the tunnel brace for the main electrical plug on this swap. My question is, with this being a unibody car, does doing this weaken anything by cutting into this brace?

Does anyone have any pictures of "boxing" in the brace after cutting it to keep the strength?

If you didnt have to cut the brace, does anyone have any pictures of BFH the area to fit the plug?

 

Yes, always.

But in this situation, usually not too much... depending on how happy of a cutter you are!


Realistically you should have at least one pair of sub-frame connector is your car...
and you can always add bracing from there.

I frequently move the torque arm in these cars to an independent cross-member attached to the sub-frame connectors.

 

Thanks for your input. The car has weld-in BMR subframe connectors already.

I have owned the car 10 years, it is pretty low mileage (40k) and I didnt mind beating in the wheel wells and rolling the fenders to fit the 28" tires on, but I'm second guessing cutting the bracing now. I bought a good 80e core to build, and now that I have seen it in person its alot to fit in a small space on these cars.

Would it be crazy to go buy a sponsor built 4L60E and go with that instead?

I'm thinking of staying N/A for awhile now with my cam only setup approx 400 hp and go with a FTI 4000 Hard Hit stall and just enjoy the car. Later down the road instead of nitrous do a fun turbo build on the car and shoot for 550-600 hp.

This car is only driven a couple times a week to go get ice cream or go for some "spirited" driving.

I'm open to opinions!

 

For a 4th-Gen F-Body...
A properly built 4L60E is great (Pro-Built Automatics for example) for your planed power level.
Especially as Turbochargers are generally the least harsh power-adder for the engine, transmission, differential, Etc.

 

Pictures of the BFH area? How about a video? Even better!

 

Thanks 5.7stroker!! I'm not sure how I missed that video, but that was exactly what i needed to see to help make my decision. I think this thread may help alot of people on the fence about this swap!

 

Sure thing! I came across it the other day.
The one thing that I suggest that is not mentioned in that video is that it would be better to use a 90 deg hose end fitting on the rear (Cooler Return) port and also a normal straight fitting on the front port. This is better than using 2 banjo fittings which are more restrictive. Better flow.
Also for the dipstick tube, definitely go with the madman over the lokar. It will be easier to fill.

 

Thanks again for more good info. Between actually seeing how large this trans is in person, and finding out exactly how much needs to be modified on the car to make it work, I've decided to go a different route with the car now.

I'm going Th400 or a built 4L60E the verdict is out on which one still.

 

TH400 if the lack of OD is not a concern. 3000 rpm at 70mph with 3.23 gears and 28's will get really old really quick on a street car. Sure there's gear vendors, but $$$
4L60E if you are keeping it under 700 hp or so (some guys have taken these built 4L60E's even further but still a gamble)

The reason why I went 4L80E is because I wanted something that can be electronically shifted at 1200 hp and hold up. That being said, to make the conversion work in an F-body at that power level the expense adds up quick!

3.5" Chromoly driveshaft with a billet yoke
Conversion Crossmember
Converter
SFI flexplate
Trans cooler and lines
External Wiring harness
Dipstick tube
4L80E segment swap

That's another $2300 right there LOL

 

I really feel that the size increase from a THM400/ 3L80 to a 4L80E is not all that much...

Try stuffing an Allison 1000 model Transmission in that car!
LOL!