I seem to be getting some confusing information here. I see references to 300mm and 298mm pumps (assuming outside diameter of pump).
I also see reference to the two styles of seal you mention.
And I see references to two different pump shaft sizes. 1.5" and 2.0" (not sure what shaft exactly as my stator measures 1.75" (large end) & 1.36" (small end).

 

298mm vs 300mm references the input shaft design based on OEM converter diameter LS=300mm and LT1/SBC=298. I have never seen a reference to 1.5 vs 2.0" pump shaft.

 

Thanks think I'm getting this more sorted out in my head I'm asking questions of sellers on ebay. Somebody said there was a design change in 2004, this went to the paper gasket from oring. Should be version I have. Would be nice to know what casing numbers are what... Haven't figured that out yet.

 

There was a design change, it was around 04-05. All pumps have the paper gasket, the seal change was from an o-ring around the pump to a rigid seal that wedges in the front when you install the bellhousing. There is actually quite a bit of interchangeability in the pump halves as long as you get the one for whatever case seal you have. The stators are usually listed differently, but most late stators are really the same, but since they sell them with the stator tube attached, they use different part numbers. In the past I have just found the pump I need based on the seal, and changed the stator tube over. The last one I just bought a late model one with ISS and used the GM plug and stator tube that put in non-ISS models because that is what I found cheapest. I have to keep model year changes in mind because I dont do enough transmissions to keep cores around, so I have to know what I can make work. Im dealing with the wife's now, it's a 2007 but early enough that it uses the 2006 and down separator plate, but has the ISS sensor, and there was a reacton shaft change mid 2007 I had to deal with finding a replacement for

 

So is this case wear down in low reverse / back end of case normal / acceptable? There are some wear marks on one side of the case lugs where steels hit them over time.

 

My wife's is a little worse than that, i just deburred the lugs.

 

Run it, that is normal for a high mileage case.

 

My parts from Teal Automotive just arrived. Tearing down pump to rebuild and a whole new bag of worms to deal with...

Rotor Pocket: two small grooves, my nail barely perceives them. Sanding test was done with dry 400 grit sandpaper. Everything else is great on the outer pump cover. The rotor was in perfect shape when removed and other parts as well. Picture bottom of post. Video Linked below:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ES8...ew?usp=sharing

Reverse Boost Valve sleeve Stuck in Pump: both valves were actually stuck. I am soaked them in PB Blaster. The one came out but the boost valve sleeve is still stuck. I tried filling any ports I could see on the valve with PB blaster and soaking further.

I've also been tapping with a socket extension and hammer - probably unadvisable. Getting a little po'd at it. Started with a soft object and upgraded to a harder one. Specifically, the sleeve is stuck at the bottom of the bore. Everything else is free moving.

Unsure what to do next. Sleeve is stuck at bottom of bore. Everything else moves freely.

- Heat up in oven? Not sure if a few heat cycles would do trick... Can I use my propane torch on aluminum (concerned about heating unevenly?).
- Any way to hit it from the inside out?

Video linked below:

 

I just saw a pump ad on ebay saying to measure your stator diameter to determine if you have 298mm (1.5" dia.) or 300mm (2" dia.) pumps.

 

I got it worked out and ordered another pump.... Now I need to know how to get my reverse boost sleeve unstuck on current pump, (previous post).

 

Neverminded, I got some courage to tap a hole in the boost sleeve and it came out. I then did per directions 320 grit wet sand perpendicular to scratches and they all came out so pump seems good. Video of pump HERE

Question 1 Replacement Boost Valve Sleeve? I don't think my kit HERE came with a new boost sleeve for the pump. I'm going through parts and cannot find one. I still have the assembly from scrap pump... However, which one is better: Sonnax HERE, TransGo HERE, or OEM (if can buy OEM?)? I'll likely put new in the pump I rebuild.

Question 2 Hone Bore Boost Valve Bore? Part of my problem was the penetrating oil couldn't get down the bore. Curious, does that mean the bore needs honed a bit? Should I take a green scotch bright and lightly scuff bore up before reassembling?

Case question: I got another case from the parts supplier. It has the same pounded lugs for steels at rear of case so long story short, I'm going to use the better case. How do I know which one is superior? The donor transmission is a 5KCD and the other case I bought it a 5TDD. Which one would be better if they are not the same? (Does K denote from a 4wd truck?)

 

See answers in red

 

Thanks @bbond105 Looking at fitment here... Sonnax.com simply says fits 4L60E with not much more detail. Quick question, are these boost sleeves from sonnax kind of one bore fits all? I see several variations on the design of the boost sleeve and valve. I even have two designs that I pulled from the two different pumps (same year pump though).

Next, I'm reading Dana's post HERE on rebuilding the pump. I've pressed out the stator and have the new one in the freezer.

I also VERY carefully checked BOTH mating surfaces of pump. They are flat to within 1.5 thousands. I also did a flashlight test with straight edge. I did this test multiple times. I recommends flat sanding on granite surface down to 400 grit. My concern is, could I possibly get any flatter than 1.5 thousands? I'd think I'd probably cause more harm than good... Would you do this step?

Thanks!

 

Just a word of warning:

Over the last two or so years...
Many of the 4L60E Transmission-Family Pressure-Regulator Boost Valve and Sleeve Sets from TransGo, have not fit well/ properly.

If you run into this issue, DO NOT FORCE THE SLEEVE INTO THE PUMP HALF!!!
Anyone doing this, should at least own inexpensive Vernier/ Dial-Calipers...
So measure the Sleeve OD, and the Pump-Bore ID.

If the dimensions do not allow for proper fitment...
RETURN THE PART!


If you guys stay in any part of the Automotive Parts World long enough...
You will see plenty of **** batches of Parts from time to time.

 

The link to your rebuild from Dana says that it comes with a .500 TransGo boost valve and sleeve. If it fits properly I would use that. The TransGo Valve and sleeve will fit both early and late pumps. Just follow the instructions.

Sonnax uses a different valve and sleeve for the early and late pumps. Boost Valve Sleeve for early style with "long" boost sleeve, 1.907" length. Summit part # SOX-4L60E LB1 Boost Valve Sleeve for late style with "short" boost sleeve, 1.810" length. Summit part # SOX-4L60E-LB2 If using a Sonnax valve for hi-performance use the .490 valve.

If you have a granite plate you can sand it flat, .0015 is not that much. If you don’t have a granite plate I wouldn’t worry about .0015. You could make it worse.

 

@bbond105 dang I looked at list on kit and missed it. There are shoot many parts here finally stumbled onto it in one of little boxes.

@vorteciroc I did a test fit and slid in. Is a tight fit but similar to old sleeve fitment. so seems to be a good part not from bad batch. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Weiner, the cases can be grouped by just thinking of old Chevys: C&K trucks are full-size, think of K5 Blazers, the K is 4WD, and a C10 truck is 2WD.This also will include GMC Sierra, Cadillac Escalade, GMC Yukon Denali, etc. Many had 4L65E's if they had 6.0L engines. They supposedly had hardened input shafts, an extra 3-4 clutch by making them and the steels slightly thinner, and have 5-pinion planetary sets which many/most here don't think they are better than 4-pinions.

Then think of S&T for the mid-size: S10 2WD can be multiple brands, like Chevy S10, GMC S15, Olds Bravada, etc. T is the same but 4WD. S10 Blazer & Jimmy 4WD, GMC Sonoma, Olds Bravada 4WD/AWD, Isuzu Trooper 4WD, etc. It expanded to GMC Envoy, Chevy Trailblazer, Saab 9-7X, Isuzu Ascender, Buick, etc. If you go with a T, look for V8's like 5.3L as many are 4.3 V6's thru 2005 or 4.2 straight 6's in the Envoy/Trailblazer/Ascender of this millenium.

2nd digit K's or T's are always 4WD. Short of a code saying it's a 4L65E, the full-size and mid-size often use the same 4L60E. Best choice would be the one with the best service record and least miles or least damage/abuse. Hope this helps.

 

Sanity check, I need another stator. Are they all the same for 300mm pumps...

Not sure if better to buy OEM or Sonnax either. I'm looking at this here: https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2502-st...shaft-assembly

Backstory, everything was going perfectly installing new stator in pump case. Got it in, cooled it off, and started torqueing in the three torque head screws.

One screw stripped! Wow these stator screws are complete junk (at least mine are). Despite being VERY careful and having the right socket it stripped!

I went to extract it with a lot of painstaking effort to not nick anything and well I nicked the shaft where reverse input drum rides...

I think god made swear words for this sort of thing!

 

I think if you polished that spot it would be okay. There is still plenty of surface area for the bushing to ride on.

 

Yeah, I'll just buy another one. I think even the sonnax is $60. Double checking with Dana... but I think I can snag a sonnax?

It wasn't that hard to install. Really quite amazing, just left the stator in the fridge overnight, then put the outer pump case in oven and it literally fell into place.