Ive looked at almost every single post and still dont quite understand how to actually plumb the new cooler inline with the stock cooler.

Cooler has two ports..
Trans has two lines
Where do i connect the feed and return to? Lol like all these posts (if you follow them word for word) they are saying to unplug the top line from the radiator then put a fitting into that port then connect the two "lines" together and that blows my mind... sorry if anyone can barney style this for me. That would be great. Also the trans feed/stock cooler/radiator/aux cooler/return thing confuses me too.

 

Bypass the stock cooler all together

 

I'd prefer to keep it in the loop, just in the off chance it gets a little nipply outside.

 

Found this, so pretty much i leave the top port and line alone, and just introduce the new aux cooler to the return port and line... wow if thats the case, why didnt all the posts just say that lol?

 

You could do it that way, but I just left the factory fitting in the top port of the radiator and used a doubled barbed connector (with fuel injection style clamps) to connect the factory rubber line to the aux cooler rubber line, then connected the other aux cooler rubber line to the factory (flared) hard line with the original factory clamp. No need to actually cut or modify anything. I've had it set up this way for 18 years, no issues.

The image pictured above does not appear to depict 4L60E cooler flow/routing.

 

So if you leave the factory fitting in the top port, and connect that top line to the aux cooler hose. What did you do with the open top port on the radiator? I guess this is what is confusing me.

 

There is no "open top port" in the method I described above. The factory top connection point is a hard line that's threaded into the radiator, it stays in place and does not need to be removed (at the radiator) for this method. A couple inches down from where this line threads into the radiator, there is a compression fitting which connects said hard line to a rubber hose. That rubber hose then connects back to a hard line several more inches away (near bottom of engine bay) with a removable factory clamp. That's the factory setup.

So, what I did (and described above) was to splice into the upper (return) line at the point where the factory rubber hose connects to a hard line with a removable clamp (near bottom of engine bay). Remove clamp, pull off rubber hose and install a double barbed fitting into said factory rubber hose (I believe it was 3/8"?), then connect one of the aux trans cooler rubber lines to the other side of that barbed fitting (I used fuel injection style clamps on both ends of the barb). Then, the other rubber line coming off the aux trans cooler would connect to the factory hard line (which is now exposed, since you removed the factory clamp and hose to install the barbed fitting), which is already flared, and you can either reuse the original factory clamp or another fuel injection style clamp. So the trans fluid now runs through the factory cooler, into your aux cooler, and then back into the trans.

I never actually removed the factory line from where it threads into the radiator at any point to do this, so there is no "open port". I just disconnected said line down lower, where it's is clamped, and spliced in there. I hope this better explains the setup.

The only reason why you should have any "open ports" to cap off on the radiator is if you wanted to completely remove the factory trans cooler from the circuit.

I know some folks like everything to be threaded, but I've had no problems using the barbed fittings and FI style clamps on mine for the last 18 years.

 

Thanks I understand now. So for the cooler itself, the bm 70274/264 is like 130 bucks could I just use this instead?

Hayden Automotive 678 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler

It will be a 3600 stall.

 

I've always liked the B&M stacked plate ones myself, but I my Nova has a Hayden (I think?) tube-in-fin style from a previous owner many years ago. It's been good too. I've never tried the Hayden version of the stacked plate style though.

 

You'd be better off with the Hayden 679. It's a little bigger and has a 30k gvw rating which should be good for a 3600 stall. It's a great budget cooler that comes with all you need to install it.

 

Hayden is okay for connection with the OEM cooler together.
However, I really like the LPD in hotter climates or for those who is bypassing OEM cooler.
For example : tru-cool 4589

LPD Stands for low pressure drop. What it basically does is lowering the pressure and oil flow in the radiator itself and brings it back on the output.
What it does is the oil stays more time in the radiator and the airflow cools it way more efficient.
LPD is a monster of a cooler solution.

 

I agree 100% and I'd always recommend a stacked plate cooler if anyone is ok with spending more. I run the Tru Cool H7B (same as B&M 70274) on its own with 6an lines and live in the northeast, so it's more than enough for me even with a 4000 stall. Just seemed like OP is looking for budget solution which the Hayden 679 perfectly fits the bill for.