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Another 4L60E rebuild based on build thread research
Just want to say thanks to all those that have so graciously provided the information on this site in all the various build threads that I've come across. I now have a better idea in that the vehicle weight, stall size, band type, band clearance, 2nd/4th servo selection and setup, 1-2 piston type and 1-2 spring type and orientation of these in the 1-2 accumulator housing, 1-2 accumulator sleeve code, 1-2 accumulator spring in the VB, 3-4 accumulator setup, and separator plate hole sizes ALL work together in playing a role in shift feel. Hopefully the starting point selection will result in minimal adjustments needed, but that's where the fun comes in and learning what works/plays well together and what doesn't. If the line pressure is to high, will adjust components as necessary.
When I swapped to the 4L80E, I sold the built 4L60E unit that was in there locally that was previously in my car, but when the new owner wants a refresh and to have it hold a more power, I offered to take a stab at the rebuild. I'm sure it has some of the parts listed below in it already. Mileage on the 4L60E was so low with very limited usage along with perfect looking fluid and it never exceeding temps that I didn't bother to tear into it prior to selling. The plan is to modify it in the future as needed depending on what is in there while also doing some trial and error for dialing in the shift characteristics. Some folks want to see how much they can get out of the 4L60E before jumping to a 4L80E.
Application details are as follows:
4l60E core year: 2000
Vehicle Weight - 3600
Rear end gear ratio - 4.10
4L60E gear ratio - stock
Max RPM -7000
Intended use - street/strip
Stall Converter -3800
Stall size - 9.5
Electronic Shifted
No transbrake
Future RWHP of application – 700
Shift characteristics – smooth part throttle shifts and quicker and firmer shifts with more throttle
Power adder – turbo or super charger
So if I start with these components below, the plan would be to start with no spring in the 1-2 accumulator bore in the VB, see how it feels, and then start with a Transgo white 24oz spring if necessary and then peen/re-drill separator holes from the starting point values below and adjust servo pin length as needed to get the right shift characteristics with some trial and error before messing with the 1/2 accumulator springs and piston/spring configuration. Starting point springs are listed below.
2-4 Band - Alto Carbonate wide 057961C
Pin - Sonnax dual PTFE
Band clearance - 0.75”
Probuilt hardened accumulator pin
1-2 Accumulator Housing - Updated 24227711
1-2 Accum Piston Type - Trangso Aluminum 4L65-2ACM
Springs in 1-2 Acc Housing – Green Outer Spring 24219942 & Yellow Inner Spring 24220146
1-2 orientation: legs of piston facing toward accumulator housing with both springs between piston and accumulator housing
1-2 Accu sleeve code in valve body - C
1-2 Accu spring color/ounces in VB – as mentioned above, start with no spring, followed by 24oz white, then 56oz blue if needed
3-4 Accum Piston Type -Blocked, no piston
Spring in 3-4 Acc - blocked, no springs
Forward Accum Piston Type – Sonnax Pinless
Spring in forward accumulator - Stock
2nd Gear Servo Type - Sonnax 77911-03K
4th Gear Servo Type - Sonnax 77767K
Springs used in Servo setup - Stock V8 Fbody
Cut fluid relieve notches in servo cushion spring retainer
Checkball #1 - Deleted
Checkball #6 - Deleted
Checkball #7 – Deleted
New untouched VB to use as starting point
Band release - .101"
Rev input - .104"
3-4 clutch and 3-4 clutch signal - .110"
1-2 shift - .086"
2-3 shift - .139"
3-4 shift - .110"
3-2 shift to - .120”
Low/reverse - .093"
Forward clutch - .086"
AFL - stock
TCC - stock
Other separator plate hole sizes
17g – stock
20b – stock
20e – stock Target Max line pressure of 235 PSI
The rest of the build would be as follows depending on what all it has been done already.
New bushings, overhaul kit, bearings, washers, etc
Steel plate kit - Transtar 74139EA
Friction kit – Borg Warner B74119B
Piston kit – A74960EHPK
Drum - 4L79.com drum kit
3-4 stack – 8/8 that comes with the 4L79.com drum
Superior K070
Superior K0136 directional switch valve
3-4 springs - Sonnax 77763-01
4L79.com apply plate
New backing plate 24212460
3-4 Clutch pack clearance of 0.025" - 0.030"
Rev Input Clutch wave Alto 74131BK
Some debate on shaft selection at this power level. Might go with Sonnax.
Output Shaft - 4l65 induction hardened/shot peened
Input Shaft - 4l65 induction hardened/shot peened
Transgo C-7S spring kit (comes with HD2)
4 pinion OEM planets
Shell - Sonnax 77749-02K
Reaction Shaft - Sonnax 74602-01K HD
Sprag clutch hub - stock
Reverse Input Drum - Refinished OEM
Tack weld the low/reverse drum snap ring in place
Low/reverse roller clutch 28571AM
Forward 29 Element Sprag 4L60E - 50120BW (Dual cage)
Drill 4 - 6 .125" (1/8") holes in the brass retainer that makes contact with the overrun hub
Sand inner race where the sprag rides to mirror finish
Roughen up outer race w/ 36 - 50 grit sandpaper in the direction of rotation
Transgo PR valve 4L60E-PR (pending vac check)
Transgo Boost valve 4L60E-BOOST
Transgo 700 PKH pump rings and pump spring
13 vane slide, 10 vane rotor, dial in clearances
TG Separator plate
Sonnax HD 2-3 valve 77754-41
Tune the PCM to no longer force a 1-2 upshift electrically
Block the 3-2 Down Shift (#389) and 3-2 control (#391) valve inboard
Convert TCC to ON/OFF
Low overrun spring - use TG yellow
Central valve bodies .001" oversized AFL valve or ream with larger oversize as needed pending inspection/vac test results
Replace AFL spring with the spring that was in the 3-2 downshift bore for 5-7 PSI gain
Transgo reverse abuse plug 4L60E‐ABUSE‐BP
Sonnax 77964-08K o-ringed end plugs
Sonnax Torlon Check ***** 10000-08 (plate prepped for proper check ball use)
Replace all electronics except 3-2 and TCC solenoid (not needed ON/OFF setup)
Vac test check pump and VB
Total endplay .005"-.012"
C-7S springs
No other VB mods other than what is above
No other case mods other than what is above
No slots in the sun gears
No enlargement of lube holes
Yeah... I like to plan ahead.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 03-07-2023 at 08:14 PM.
Just want to say thanks to all those that have so graciously provided the information on this site in all the various build threads that I've come across. I now have a better idea in that the vehicle weight, stall size, band type, band clearance, 2nd/4th servo selection and setup, 1-2 piston type and 1-2 spring type and orientation of these in the 1-2 accumulator housing, 1-2 accumulator sleeve code, 1-2 accumulator spring in the VB, 3-4 accumulator setup, and separator plate hole sizes ALL work together in playing a role in shift feel. Hopefully the starting point selection will result in minimal adjustments needed, but that's where the fun comes in and learning what works/plays well together and what doesn't. If the line pressure is to high, will adjust components as necessary.
When I swapped to the 4L80E, I sold the built 4L60E unit that was in there locally that was previously in my car, but when the new owner wants a refresh and to have it hold a more power, I offered to take a stab at the rebuild. I'm sure it has some of the parts listed below in it already. Mileage on the 4L60E was so low with very limited usage along with perfect looking fluid and it never exceeding temps that I didn't bother to tear into it prior to selling. The plan is to modify it in the future as needed depending on what is in there while also doing some trial and error for dialing in the shift characteristics. Some folks want to see how much they can get out of the 4L60E before jumping to a 4L80E.
Application details are as follows:
4l60E core year: 2000
Vehicle Weight - 3600
Rear end gear ratio - 4.10
4L60E gear ratio - stock
Max RPM -7000
Intended use - street/strip
Stall Converter -3800
Stall size - 9.5
Electronic Shifted
No transbrake
Future RWHP of application – 700
Shift characteristics – smooth part throttle shifts and quicker and firmer shifts with more throttle
Power adder – turbo or super charger
So if I start with these components below, the plan would be to start with no spring in the 1-2 accumulator bore in the VB, see how it feels, and then start with a Transgo white 24oz spring if necessary and then peen/re-drill separator holes from the starting point values below and adjust servo pin length as needed to get the right shift characteristics with some trial and error before messing with the 1/2 accumulator springs and piston/spring configuration. Starting point springs are listed below.
2-4 Band - Alto Carbonate wide 057961C
Pin - Sonnax dual PTFE
Band clearance - 0.75” Aim for 0.60 on the clearance
Probuilt hardened accumulator pin
1-2 Accumulator Housing - Updated 24227711
1-2 Accum Piston Type - Trangso Aluminum 4L65-2ACM
Springs in 1-2 Acc Housing – Green Outer Spring 24219942 & Yellow Inner Spring 24220146
1-2 orientation: legs of piston facing toward accumulator housing with both springs between piston and accumulator housing
1-2 Accu sleeve code in valve body - C
1-2 Accu spring color/ounces in VB – as mentioned above, start with no spring, followed by 24oz white, then 56oz blue if needed
3-4 Accum Piston Type -Blocked, no piston
Spring in 3-4 Acc - blocked, no springs
Forward Accum Piston Type – Sonnax Pinless
Spring in forward accumulator - Stock
2nd Gear Servo Type - Sonnax 77911-03K If you use this servo start out very conservative with feed hole size.
4th Gear Servo Type - Sonnax 77767K
Springs used in Servo setup - Stock V8 Fbody
Cut fluid relieve notches in servo cushion spring retainer
Checkball #1 - Deleted
Checkball #6 - Deleted
Checkball #7 – Deleted
New untouched VB to use as starting point
Band release - .101"
Rev input - .104"
3-4 clutch and 3-4 clutch signal - .110"
1-2 shift - .086" Maybe too much for2nd Gear Servo Type - Sonnax 77911-03K
2-3 shift - .139"
3-4 shift - .110"
3-2 shift to - .120”
Low/reverse - .093"
Forward clutch - .086"
AFL - stock
TCC - stock
Other separator plate hole sizes
17g – stock
20b – stock
20e – stock Target Max line pressure of 235 PSI
The rest of the build would be as follows depending on what all it has been done already.
New bushings, overhaul kit, bearings, washers, etc
Steel plate kit - Transtar 74139EA
Friction kit – Borg Warner B74119B
Piston kit – A74960EHPK
Drum - 4L79.com drum kit
3-4 stack – 8/8 that comes with the 4L79.com drum
Superior K070
Superior K0136 directional switch valve
3-4 springs - Sonnax 77763-01
4L79.com apply plate
New backing plate 24212460
3-4 Clutch pack clearance of 0.025" - 0.030"
Rev Input Clutch wave Alto 74131BK
Some debate on shaft selection at this power level. Might go with Sonnax.
Output Shaft - 4l65 induction hardened/shot peened
Input Shaft - 4l65 induction hardened/shot peened
Transgo C-7S spring kit (comes with HD2)
4 pinion OEM planets
Shell - Sonnax 77749-02K
Reaction Shaft - Sonnax 74602-01K HD
Sprag clutch hub - stock I had trouble with the inside ears ripping off. Could have been from the sprag slipping but I replaced it with the Sonnax Hub and new sprag races and problem went away.
Reverse Input Drum - Refinished OEM
Tack weld the low/reverse drum snap ring in place
Low/reverse roller clutch 28571AM
Forward 29 Element Sprag 4L60E - 50120BW (Dual cage)
Drill 4 - 6 .125" (1/8") holes in the brass retainer that makes contact with the overrun hub
Sand inner race where the sprag rides to mirror finish
Roughen up outer race w/ 36 - 50 grit sandpaper in the direction of rotation
Transgo PR valve 4L60E-PR (pending vac check)
Transgo Boost valve 4L60E-BOOST
Transgo 700 PKH pump rings and pump spring
13 vane slide, 10 vane rotor, dial in clearances
TG Separator plate
Sonnax HD 2-3 valve 77754-41
Tune the PCM to no longer force a 1-2 upshift electrically
Block the 3-2 Down Shift (#389) and 3-2 control (#391) valve inboard
Convert TCC to ON/OFF
Low overrun spring - use TG yellow
Central valve bodies .001" oversized AFL valve or ream with larger oversize as needed pending inspection/vac test results
Replace AFL spring with the spring that was in the 3-2 downshift bore for 5-7 PSI gain
Transgo reverse abuse plug 4L60E‐ABUSE‐BP I like the Sonnax forward/reverse abuse valve kits.
Sonnax 77964-08K o-ringed end plugs
Sonnax Torlon Check ***** 10000-08 (plate prepped for proper check ball use)
Replace all electronics except 3-2 and TCC solenoid (not needed ON/OFF setup)
Vac test check pump and VB
Total endplay .005"-.012"
C-7S springs
No other VB mods other than what is above
No other case mods other than what is above
No slots in the sun gears
No enlargement of lube holes
2007 4L60 E NEW TRANNY I HAVE KICKING AROUND MINE HAS BLOW 3 4 ON MY 09 SIERRA WHAT DO I NEED TO CHANGE 09 HAS INTERNAL NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ETC CAN I SWITCH THE VALVE BODY AND HARNESS ? id really appreciate any help
-Good to know that the Sonnax 2nd gear servo over the corvette servo will most likely require a smaller 1-2 hole size on the plate than the .086" I was originally planning for.
-Will go for 0.60 clearance on the band.
-74574-HD and new sprag races it is!
-Will swap the trango part for the Sonnax forward/reverse abuse valve kit
-Good to know that the Sonnax 2nd gear servo over the corvette servo will most likely require a smaller 1-2 hole size on the plate than the .086" I was originally planning for.
-Will go for 0.60 clearance on the band.
-74574-HD and new sprag races it is!
-Will swap the trango part for the Sonnax forward/reverse abuse valve kit
Thanks again!
My trans had broken the hub twice, so I replaced both sprag races and added the Sonnax hub. So, I'm not sure which part fixed the problem. The trans had the Sonnax 2-3 shift valve installed and I'm sure that added to the stress on the hub. A lot of people say the Sonnax hub is not needed. That was just my experience with one trans, not saying it is needed or not.
2007 4L60 E NEW TRANNY I HAVE KICKING AROUND MINE HAS BLOW 3 4 ON MY 09 SIERRA WHAT DO I NEED TO CHANGE 09 HAS INTERNAL NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH ETC CAN I SWITCH THE VALVE BODY AND HARNESS ? id really appreciate any help
Please start a thread of your own so that we can keep this thread on topic.
My trans had broken the hub twice, so I replaced both sprag races and added the Sonnax hub. So, I'm not sure which part fixed the problem. The trans had the Sonnax 2-3 shift valve installed and I'm sure that added to the stress on the hub. A lot of people say the Sonnax hub is not needed. That was just my experience with one trans, not saying it is needed or not.
Understood. I’ll most likely purchase those parts as well just to be on the safe side.
I thought the sonnax 2nd servo required larger plate hole sizes due to its increased area ? So they need to be more conservatives ? learn new stuff everyday....
i will be very carefull with my words, but if i rememmber right, the 2-3 and 3-2 has to be the same size.
This is what I used the last time I did my transmission
2-3 shift feed hole to .155"
3-2 hole to .120"
Band release .104"
Note you should block the 3-2 control valve to use the larger 2-3 feed hole and band release hole.
This is what I used the last time I did my transmission
2-3 shift feed hole to .155"
3-2 hole to .120"
Band release .104"
Note you should block the 3-2 control valve to use the larger 2-3 feed hole and band release hole.
when blocking the 2-3 or 3-2....do the feed holes still need to be as big? seems without leakage the more conservative hole sizes would get plenty of fluid
-Soak in HOT Water for a few Minutes.
-Use New Clean Plastic Funnels (near the size of the Object that the Rings fit) to gently stretch the Sealing-Ring.
-Use New Clean Electrical-Tape (while the Seal is Wet) and lightly wrap the Seal slowly tighter until fully in the Groove.
-Leave for a few minutes... then Remove, and all done.
Purchase these Seals separately from Aftermarket Transmission Parts Distributors.
Hyperlink below is a Retailer for anyone to Buy from: Seals
when blocking the 2-3 or 3-2....do the feed holes still need to be as big? seems without leakage the more conservative hole sizes would get plenty of fluid
My feed hole sizes are for a car that is putting 460 hp to the wheels with a 4000 stall torque converter and 4.11 gears. May want to back off those numbers a little for a street car with a 3200 stall converter. Then again, I haven't heard too many people complain about 3rd gear hitting too hard.
Forward 29 Element Sprag 4L60E - 50120BW (Dual cage)
Drill 4 - 6 .125" (1/8") holes in the brass retainer that makes contact with the overrun hub
Sand inner race where the sprag rides to mirror finish
Roughen up outer race w/ 36 - 50 grit sandpaper in the direction of rotation
I have been doing a ton of reading here from Posts that I could not give my full attention to, or completely missed out on...
Due to Health Issues, Medical Appointments, ER and Long Hospital stays/ admissions for several days at a time, Surgeries, Physical and Mental Therapies, Etc.
I accidentally missed a few minor things in the 1st Post (I have a very bad habit of very poorly "Speed Reading" on the Forum when I am in significant Pain and/ or suffering in other way from Lupus.
Sorry Guys.
I know this Thread has been quiet for approximately 8-Months...
However it was well done and full of Information by a Member that has been here to learn and build.
He has successfully Learned a ton!
...And he has been successfully Building!
I just had a few Comments to make on the 3 Sections Quoted from the First Post of this Thread.
FIRST: Regarding Check-*****, I believe this was a "Typo"... Putting Check-Ball #7 instead of #2.
The #7 Check-Ball is actually the Check-Ball Capsule (in the Servo Bore) for the Intermediate Servo Assembly.
This should NEVER be Removed/ Omitted or Plugged-Off.
I believe the OP's intention was to list Check-Ball #2 as Omitted and Plugged in the Separator Plate (I could be wrong, I am giving him the Benefit of the Doubt).
Second: Regarding the Input-Sprag Preparation.
Do NOT Roughen-Up the Outer-Race Surface for the Rollers of the Sprag with 36 - 50 grit sandpaper.
In the past doing so was recommended, However this is no longer the case.
Instead Prepare the Outer-Race identically as the Inner-Race... Follow the recommended Instructions included in the 1st Post.
Third: Regarding the Separator-Plate Preparation for use with Torlon Type Check-*****.
There is no Error here.
However the Preparation of a New Separator-Plate can be Time-Consuming, especially for the New/ Novice Builder.
The Only Check-Ball that really benefits from being changed to a Torlon Type Check-Ball, is 2nd-Feed for the 1 - 2 Up-Shift.
It's the only Separator-Plate Hole that I have ever seen Worn-Out, even with 300,000 Miles on a 4L60E.
03-07-2023, 08:06 PM
Another 4L60E rebuild based on build thread research 
