New build, new Jakes B82 converter built to gas specs on an 8.1 vortec in motorhome.
Filled the unit properly per jakes videos and yes the stick was verified 1/4 above the rail - Selecting any gear trans would engage but acted like a high stall converter but after a few throttle buzzes and going thru the gear range everything tightened up normally, converter would grab and it could overpower the brakes when power braking it. No harsh application of any gear other than the slight clicks of the fwd clutch apply nor any unusual delays
Then after several more minute I am back to having a high stall converter - Have to buzz it up to 1800 and the RV starts to creep - this is in any gear and only with 150 degree fluid temps. When the fluid is cold/ warm it wont even creep ( i did not attempt to hammer on it) .
When you select reverse or drive you do feel and hear a normal shift engagement just doesn't go anywhere.
pressures
Park idle = 80# 90 # around 1700 rpm
Reverse idle =40 # (about every 5 seconds it cycles to 90 # for a few then drops to 40 # ) I didn't do the full 2 seconds but a quick 3/4 throttle hit and got 310#
Neutral idle = 40#.... cycles to 90 same as above
4th idle = 40# part throttle hit 210# ( think I might have had a couple 90# cycles but not as prevalent as PRN)
1,2,3 = 80#
No lag whatsoever on the gear selection pressure dip.
The unit is 1995 with 21k miles and was VERY clean with almost no wear ( I could have left it as is but i bought the kit) .
I bought the rebuild kit from Jake and it looks like they threw the larger 210 pound PR spring in by mistake? ( I used the Sonnax 32400-01K boost valve kit which "should" not have raised pressures on top of the PR spring like the LB1 does)
I did the dual feed, blocked off 3rd accumulator and left the piston and spring, drilled the .093" hole in the line pressure to converter charge circuit ( per instructions) , feeds are .086, 096, 082 nothing crazy and opened up the reverse feed orifice slightly to lose some of the dual feed reverse delay, Sonnax roller fwd hub. Sonnax tcc valve , sonnax AFL kit and had a trans shop do the reaming/install, o ringed end caps on pump and VB wherever i could get them and new pump gears.
Any ideas ???

 

Oh and also tried overfilling a quart or 2 and 1 qt low and no difference

 

Looking at the pressure kinda all over the place and way low at times, I would guess you have a pump or pr valve issues , This thing does not have the transgo presure relief in the valve body missing or not seating does it?

 

First post as a sponsor ^^^^^

 

hell no on the transgo relief valve mess ! Lol

 

Good and made sure someone else didnt and a hole there now?. But in that case I would first check my PR valve whatever it is I am pretty sure is going to be inside the pump..

 

Yeah I double checked for any molestation of the unit as far as mods etc and it appears it is all oem and never been opened up. The RV salvage yard I got it from wasn't BS ing .e when they said it had 21k miles.

 

This morning I disconnected the harness plug and I am getting 205-210 psi in all gear ranges and I can blip the throttle in reverse and get 315 like right away vs having to raise the rpms much higher when disconnected....... but vehicle still will not move anywhere

 

Hmm Pressure with no movement forward or reverse. The Hydraulics are pretty isolated between forward and reverse so that is off table I can't Think of a commonality.
Pull pan check that Manual valve is connected, My next thought would be converter issue. You have pressure to the line in case else you would get nothing off pressure port..
Frank

 

Just disconnected the cooler in line into a bucket.... no friggin flow ! Makes sense as the thing was running for awhile and I only got up to 95 degrees on the temps - system readings and external gauge.
* The trans was installed with a new 40k cooler and everything functioned fine - I did blow out the old fluid prior to reinstalling the unit.
No I was especially diligent about that manual valve as I saw tons of posts about people not getting that right plus I am seeing the pressure dips when selecting each gear.
Wondering if something is screwy with the pressure regulating valve or a hemorrhage in the valve body keeping the PR valve from doing its thing?
Converter is brand new

 

valve assembled wrong in the pump blocking flow to TC? bad TC? have you called jakes?

 

Nah not yet - figured I would try some basic troubleshooting first so I have some data on hand in case they have questions and try the community out here.
Kinda hard to dic up the PR valve and sleeve assy as they will only go one way but then again there are people that can fk up an iron ball with a rubber mallet lol

 

No cooler flow but you have line. Yes I would look at the PR VALVE and the converter regulator valve. could be stuck or something , No cooler flow also meansno conveter feed which would explain no movement. IMO issue is in pump.

 

Well don't I feel like an idiot today - dropped the pan and the TCC valve was hanging in the breeze !
I usually am pretty **** about positioning and seating any kind of retaining clips or rings out of habit as they are all over every aircraft we work on.
Bich is I looked up the bore and the bore sealing plug is cocked so hopefully nothing is damaged..... out comes the trans.
Is there anything else in the unit that could have gotten damaged from this that I may need to dig further than the pump? I used Hy-Guard low vis and it is tinted black with just a slight amount of sludge in the pan, no debris or anything and have heard this is normal from friction material settling in?

 

Well that would vent the converter feed and cooler . as for checking stuff hard to say if it didn't slip much probably ok , Me I would probably take a quick look through the whole thing as long as its out, But your call.

 

Nah you are absolutely right- it's all cakewalk once the pump is out will post if any other goodies are trashed.
Thanks for taking the time to help out and good luck with your new gig!

 

if you don't want to get corn holed again in a remote place it may be a good idea to teardown for piece of mind. i am not sure how the converter would fair with no flow. it sounds like you poured in 1/2 to 1 quart in so its not like you drove on it completely dry. it sucks but i've been there too. took me a while to learn with transmission work: "maybe it'll get better if i drive it around the block" nope it didn't, teardown and replace the clutches/bands. also having a pressure gauge on first start is a must. soon as you do something and pressure is low or zero stop what you are doing, do not try to rev it to see if it starts to work, try another gear, etc. the problem needs to be corrected before you continue. the no cooler flow is a hard one to detect but as I'm warming up a unit i will place my hands on the cooler lines and even the cooler itself if it is accessible. if they get hot, then there's a pretty good chance it's flowing. if they're cold something then something wrong.

 

I'm tearing into it as we speak- the 4th and overrun plates are spotless.
Yes I did pour 1/2 qt in converter and the trans did come alive and work normally for awhile then started doing the slipping thing and that's when the gauge went on and I had to keep running it thru the gears and revving it to get readings - I never drove it or did full throttle pressure tests just winged it high enough to see a general reading.
Now things make sense with normal 150 temps last night but this morning when I tried to disconnect the harness I never got past 95 degrees - the added pressure probably forced the valve completely out of the bore and that's where all flow stopped.