why?.

 

Because it's a great product that results in 20"+ vacuum on every valvebody I've tested.

It's a $25 part that helps you sleep better at night.

Also, no factory AFL valve has checked out "good" in my experience.

 

Yes increasingly I am finding they leak more and more but then these units are 30 plus years old now on some and some rebuilt multiple times.
It used to be things like the AFL and BORE PLUGS and END caps were not a big deal . Which I still check the AFL then decide. I have just started o-ringing both bore plugs and the sealing end caps by default. Sme with the band pin bore most it seems leak like a siff . I have a new pin with end sealed off, I put it in and apply air through the 4th feed in case and most times get a considerable leak on case and 3rd accum side of the bore . The pins with the tefon from sonnax seal somewhat better. But My oringed version seals totally.
However I still do not have super long term durability proof on the nytrial rings I use. But had a recent with 30k miles mostly towing driving for a refresh . I did air test seal was still solid and the only note on the orings themselves was slight flattening. But the green coating was still on them.Of course with a close band clearance like I prefer they do not have to move very far.

 

AFL is pretty important. I have only had one VAC test marginally good and I still installed an oversized valve in it.

All of mine also got o ringed end plugs, and reverse and forward abuse bore plugs and valves from Sonnax.

Although I dont go as far as Frank, I still try and tighten these old VB's up as much as possible.

 

Just curious what your opinion is on blocking the
3-2 valves inboard is? I’ve seen it mentioned in several threads but don’t remember seeing it here.

 

I personally do not do this as I feel the 3-2 solenoid can be used to mitigate shift and downshift comfort in the tune and blocking it disabled this capability, Not knocking it just my opinion.

 

Been a few months without any discussion. These plugs that you make Frank, do you know if anyone make the in the aftermarket for those of us without lathes?

Also, on the clutches and steels, anything special about the brands everyone is using? I know most are using bw for 3-4 pack. Lastly is the hi perf blue bonded pistons good for use in the 1 piece cases?

 

Sonnax makes the Oring end plugs as does transgo. As far as I know only I make the oring bore plugs..
Clutch style and brand are less important than fixing the leaks by far. I generally use the ALTO GREENS SOME CALL THEM MYSELF.

 

Whats everyones thoughts on kolene steels vs standard? Plus has anyone had better luck with one brand/manufacurer vs another? Any new interesting mods that others may be testing that others might be intrigued by?

 

I have no preference and have used Kolene , Dont really see any advantage . If they are new and flat Im good . However most I use are raybestos and alto.

 

I have a question on the overrun mod. The aluminum slugs you make do they interfere with the vb when sandwiched together. May try to do this if having to dig into the vb or to just protect the sprag. Also on the sun gear is it still good practice to notch them either with two notches or four?

 

I cut little slugs from 3/16 aluminum rod and and then smack on each side with hammer, If done right should not interfere

 

I do the notches but is it helpful IDK but does not hurt. I just d 2 generally . What I would really like is to find a drill bit strong enough to make like 3 tiny holes through front sun gear, It would dump lots of oil into the front planet and thus sling in to the 3-4 for cooling. But it would need to be small and the sun gear is very hard. I have done it but only got like1 hole per drill bit if that.

 

Not sure how small and exactly where but used a carbide dremel bit as a drill after breaking an easy out once. Lasted quite awhile. Thanks for the info. Finding this transmision quite intersting. Which band width do you prefer on the drum? Does a wide band provide any benefit other than race application?

 

I use the wide band in stage 2-3-max. But really it's not needed till over 700 rwhp , But hey if you have a new drum why not? The cost between a quality wide and regular are comparable

 

Hi all , I do plan to continue adding things to this thread as I have time and of course will bump from time to time as yes I am a sponsor and at 300 a month need to show some return for it. But still primarily my post wil be about not sales.

 

I know its been talked to death but what would constitute using the monster sunshell vs beast sunshell, or sonnax smart shell? And to add to that using a 4l65e style shell with a bearing. Any benefits to any or all?

 

BEAST/MONSTER SAME ANIMAL as far as I am concerned. They both have served me well over the years, Seen 2 ever break, Though I have not used the late stock shell I am hearing works great too.
The sonnax the bearing is kinda "cool" , But I use it mostly to get the new low roller race for stage 3 and max . it too has served well over 1000 rwhp.
Some argue the beast and monster is not balanced, I cant prove but i did take time to mount up in lathe and spin them as fast as it can go. About 1600rpm and noted no vibration. I think if anything the weight and lack of support . Double bushings in the sungear, New bushings in reaction tube and all good IMO.

 

Double bushings in the reaction sun gear? The input sun gear already has 2 in the design so I'm guessing you mean the reaction? Photo?

 

The lower sun gear that splines with the sunshell. Wide bushing or double factory bushings to support the reaction tube