4L60E Trans-Brake or not
Any one running a trans-brake 4L60E??? if so what brand?? How do y'all feel about a trans-brake on a 4L60E???
And I already promised @2BFAST He could be one of the first on Tech to try one out
So once we get to that point I'm sure he will have some feedback for the page
I'm currently just trying to get caught up on customer's projects we have at the shop now to get them ready for race season. Then it'll be full speed ahead on the Trans Dyno to get the brake dialed in.
If you're needing one sooner @Jake's Performance should be releasing theirs soon. I believe it'll be only to professional builders.
It's a billet reverse manual pattern deal that looks gorgeous.
I have a GM car 12 bolt, Eaton Tru Trac posi, Richmond Ring and Pinion, Quick Performance 30 spline axles w/ 1/2" wheel studs, ARP bearing studs, LPW aluminum diff support cover w/ axle tube deflection support brace kit, and chromoly driveshaft yokes w/ 1350 spicer joints
Last edited by 2BFAST; Mar 15, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
If you're needing one sooner [utag=183592]Jake's Performance should be releasing theirs soon. I believe it'll be only to professional builders.
It's a billet reverse manual pattern deal that looks gorgeous.[/QUOTE]
I saw that one looks real good and it should for $1800...
https://shop.jakesperformance.com/shop/ols/products/4l60-reverse-manual-transbrake-valve-body-12-launch
Last edited by Tranzman; Mar 15, 2024 at 09:03 AM.
One good mod for it, though you will have to do some tuning, its slow to apply which is why i think the flash burn happens , Turn off electrical codes for the force motor and install a relay or SCR that interupts circuit to the force motor causing max line comes on much faster and does away with the added complication of anticipating it on the line . Just wire the SCR or relay to interupt when brake switch pushed.
Look forward to MaroonMonsters as it sounds to be similar to the idea I wanted to do when I was working at a former employer but they didnt wanna put the time into it as I am sure Maroon Monster will agree things like this require weeks if not months of trial and error in study, testing Trial error calibration then real world trials to get ready .But I am sure his will be awesome and look forward to it. In my interactions with him while limted he certainly knows his stuff.
My big issue with the Rossler is size and the required extra deep pan which can be an issue with some cars and trucks due to ground and exhaust clearance issues.
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One good mod for it, though you will have to do some tuning, its slow to apply which is why i think the flash burn happens , Turn off electrical codes for the force motor and install a relay or SCR that interupts circuit to the force motor causing max line comes on much faster and does away with the added complication of anticipating it on the line . Just wire the SCR or relay to interupt when brake switch pushed.
Look forward to MaroonMonsters as it sounds to be similar to the idea I wanted to do when I was working at a former employer but they didnt wanna put the time into it as I am sure Maroon Monster will agree things like this require weeks if not months of trial and error in study, testing Trial error calibration then real world trials to get ready .But I am sure his will be awesome and look forward to it. In my interactions with him while limted he certainly knows his stuff.
My big issue with the Rossler is size and the required extra deep pan which can be an issue with some cars and trucks due to ground and exhaust clearance issues.
I have to agree with you on maroonmonsterls1. That's why I am pretty quiet on the forum. I work on OEM builds most of my life. It's just been the last 15 years that I got into performance builds. My knowledge in base is small in comparison to you, @vorteciroc , @MaroonMonsterLS1, @B2fast and others.
So I just glean information...
Thank you gentleman!
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1+2 leave
No button needed for reverse
Standard pan depth
Standard Filter will fit
Retain epc function
etc
I have the first prototype in my personal vehicle and will be making revisions on the dyno in the future
I do hear what your saying about the shock to a drive-train/rear-end.
Essentially the same way that I would years back with THM350 Transmissions.
Trans-Brake:
-Raybestos Brown High-Static (From the Blue-Plate Line) Frictions in the Low-Reverse and Reverse-Input Clutches.
-Extra-Firm Return-Springs in the Reverse-Input Clutch with Custom Spring Retainer-Plates and Over-Sized Snap-Rings (Style with Eyelets instead of Stock Lock-Ring Design).
-Firmer Springs in the Low-Reverse Clutch.
-Remove Check-Ball from Capsule in the Feed for Low-Reverse Clutch.
-Delete Waved/ Cushion Steel Plates.
-Close-Up the Clutch Pack Clearances and use Turbulator Steel Plates (Consider Nitrided Steel Plates as well).
-Delete the Feed-Bleed Design Circuit for both the Low-Reverse and Reverse-Input Clutches.
-Drill new Full-Time 0.060"Bleed Holes for both the Low-Reverse and Reverse-Input Clutches.
-Use Solenoid, Brake Line Tubing, and dill some Passages for Reverse-Input Circuit.
-Create an additional Exhaust path from Reverse-Input Circuit into a Void Chamber of Valve-Body.

SORRY.
The above is for a THM700-R4...
I made a mistake (My mental health is really still an issue for me).
I will update this soon for a 4L60E.
(some additional small changes and both Abuse-Valves need to be addressed).
Last edited by vorteciroc; Mar 16, 2024 at 02:44 PM.
Essentially the same way that I would years back with THM350 Transmissions.
Trans-Brake:
-Raybestos Brown High-Static (From the Blue-Plate Line) Frictions in the Low-Reverse and Reverse-Input Clutches.
-Extra-Firm Return-Springs in the Reverse-Input Clutch with Custom Spring Retainer-Plates and Over-Sized Snap-Rings (Style with Eyelets instead of Stock Lock-Ring Design).
-Firmer Springs in the Low-Reverse Clutch.
-Remove Check-Ball from Capsule in the Feed for Low-Reverse Clutch.
-Delete Waved/ Cushion Steel Plates.
-Close-Up the Clutch Pack Clearances and use Turbulator Steel Plates (Consider Nitrided Steel Plates as well).
-Delete the Feed-Bleed Design Circuit for both the Low-Reverse and Reverse-Input Clutches.
-Drill new Full-Time 0.060"Bleed Holes for both the Low-Reverse and Reverse-Input Clutches.
-Use Solenoid, Brake Line Tubing, and dill some Passages for Reverse-Input Circuit.
-Create an additional Exhaust path from Reverse-Input Circuit into a Void Chamber of Valve-Body.

SORRY.
The above is for a THM700-R4...
I made a mistake (My mental health is really still an issue for me).
I will update this soon for a 4L60E.
(some additional small changes and both Abuse-Valves need to be addressed).















