Transbrake on daily driver
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From: Louisiana
Transbrake on daily driver So as some of you guys know I've recently had to pull my short block for rebuilt but that's another discussion. Question here is is it worth putting a transbrake on my turbo truck that I do daily driver often. Long story short it should be close to 800 wheel when I get it put back together and im considering putting a transbrake on it while I have it pulled apart. What are the pros and cons from doing this to a street ride and how hard is it to actually do? My route would be send the transmission back to frank but I'm just curious.
The pro is more consistent dragstrip launching without worrying about pulling through the footbrake. The cons are absolutely everything else. Unless dialing in maximum dragstrip performance is your main goal, I would save the money and effort for whatever next big problem arises. But that is just my opinion. I live 90 miles from the nearest dragstrip, so my priorities are always skewed more toward street driving.
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From: Louisiana
The pro is more consistent dragstrip launching without worrying about pulling through the footbrake. The cons are absolutely everything else. Unless dialing in maximum dragstrip performance is your main goal, I would save the money and effort for whatever next big problem arises. But that is just my opinion. I live 90 miles from the nearest dragstrip, so my priorities are always skewed more toward street driving.
in most transbrake applications, especially D3 units, line pressure is raised very high to ensure the correct function of the brake action. as you can guess, constant high line pressure has few negatives. It can accelerate wear if the pump is not set up correctly. It will for sure make even the low throttle shifts very hard. You can soften the low rpm shifts a few ways. If you're using a modified stock pressure regulator and boost valve, you can create a small bleed orifice in the EPC dummy plug to further drain line pressure at low rpm. At higher RPM the orifice can't bleed much pressure compared with the volume the pump is moving at that RPM. I had my brown malibu set up this way. To fully engage the brake you needed to give it some RPM...it wouldnt hold at idle rpm and pressure. Ryan Badass 68 has set up a few units that keep the EPC as a bleed and has them on a relay to close completely when the brake is active. I'm in the process of adding that option to the units I sell.
I have a D1 style brake on my daily and with some tinkering it does really well. Most of the time it's undetectable. At the track I launch in D1 and then bump to D3 and let the computer handle all the upshifts. I would point most daily/street type users to a D1
I have a D1 style brake on my daily and with some tinkering it does really well. Most of the time it's undetectable. At the track I launch in D1 and then bump to D3 and let the computer handle all the upshifts. I would point most daily/street type users to a D1
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: Louisiana
in most transbrake applications, especially D3 units, line pressure is raised very high to ensure the correct function of the brake action. as you can guess, constant high line pressure has few negatives. It can accelerate wear if the pump is not set up correctly. It will for sure make even the low throttle shifts very hard. You can soften the low rpm shifts a few ways. If you're using a modified stock pressure regulator and boost valve, you can create a small bleed orifice in the EPC dummy plug to further drain line pressure at low rpm. At higher RPM the orifice can't bleed much pressure compared with the volume the pump is moving at that RPM. I had my brown malibu set up this way. To fully engage the brake you needed to give it some RPM...it wouldnt hold at idle rpm and pressure. Ryan Badass 68 has set up a few units that keep the EPC as a bleed and has them on a relay to close completely when the brake is active. I'm in the process of adding that option to the units I sell.
I have a D1 style brake on my daily and with some tinkering it does really well. Most of the time it's undetectable. At the track I launch in D1 and then bump to D3 and let the computer handle all the upshifts. I would point most daily/street type users to a D1
I have a D1 style brake on my daily and with some tinkering it does really well. Most of the time it's undetectable. At the track I launch in D1 and then bump to D3 and let the computer handle all the upshifts. I would point most daily/street type users to a D1
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Joined: Mar 2023
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From: BERWICK PA
General drivability with the ROSSLER brake is not an issue, I do raise the IDL line a little to help brake come on faster but also mitigate the N-D engagement by using a weaker spring in the FWD accum.
But overall you will feel little difference with the brake for daily driving.
One concern rossler even states do not hold the brake more that 5 seconds at WOT temps in converter and pump can skyrocket (remember any energy not transfered to the wheel is HEAT). So lets say you stall to 4000 rpm with brake and you make 600 hp at 4000 rpm , You now have with brake applied a 600hp heat pump which can result in damage to the pump, bushing and seal. Also a hose to direct oil from overflow on top of trans just in case should be installed to direct oil away from exhaust out to frame rail just in case or to a catch can.
Also note with my VB setup the brake will function in D3 M2 and M1
The only other notable thing I have noticed over the years is heavy use of the brake does cause some searing of the rev input frictions and clutch plate erosion on the drum at splines but never seen a failure here just noted when doing restores on TRANSBRAKE UNITS. But unless you are a very heavy user nothing to be concerned with.
But overall you will feel little difference with the brake for daily driving.
One concern rossler even states do not hold the brake more that 5 seconds at WOT temps in converter and pump can skyrocket (remember any energy not transfered to the wheel is HEAT). So lets say you stall to 4000 rpm with brake and you make 600 hp at 4000 rpm , You now have with brake applied a 600hp heat pump which can result in damage to the pump, bushing and seal. Also a hose to direct oil from overflow on top of trans just in case should be installed to direct oil away from exhaust out to frame rail just in case or to a catch can.
Also note with my VB setup the brake will function in D3 M2 and M1
The only other notable thing I have noticed over the years is heavy use of the brake does cause some searing of the rev input frictions and clutch plate erosion on the drum at splines but never seen a failure here just noted when doing restores on TRANSBRAKE UNITS. But unless you are a very heavy user nothing to be concerned with.
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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From: Louisiana
My tuner should call me within the next day or two and give me and update on my block. As long as the block isn't trash and I have to spend and arm and a leg on it then I think I'll go ahead and pull the trigger on this then. I don't drive the truck often enough for it to be a concern. I have a daily driver and a company truck so this is more of a weekend drive or trip to the track sort of vehicle. I'm expecting to be buying piston and rods, just hoping no damages to the block.
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Joined: Mar 2023
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From: BERWICK PA
Rossler actually sends waves to replace the bevel . The bevel does not work well as it slow the release as part of the apply .
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Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
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