Daily Driver Mod Recommendations Please
Daily Driver Mod Recommendations Please Lets see. I just bought my Z in June and have the mods listed (Thanks to Ls1Tech). Its got the 2.73 gears in it right now, and according to most of you A4 guys out there a new TC is the way to go. I will be getting some Jet Hot long tubes this month, then will jump on a new TC and set of gears to go with it next month and need to know whats involved.
My car is my only car and daily driver, so i dont want the gas mileage to dip too low and i dont want it to be uncontrollable, so i need some advice as to what brand/stall to look for and what size gears to go with to help my street performance. I would like to get a good increase in performance without pushing it. I drive about 40-50 miles highway a day. Thanks techies!
My car is my only car and daily driver, so i dont want the gas mileage to dip too low and i dont want it to be uncontrollable, so i need some advice as to what brand/stall to look for and what size gears to go with to help my street performance. I would like to get a good increase in performance without pushing it. I drive about 40-50 miles highway a day. Thanks techies!
My car is streetable/daily-driven and I went with a Super Yank 3500 along with a Stage2 TransGo shiftkit. In terms of gas mileage being one of your restraints, I'd go up to 3.42's max...some may not agree, but that's my POV. I have the stock 3.23's with my setup and I ran a 12.3 this weekend on baby nittos, not stalling it up at the line.
My TCI3000/2.2 cost me no gas mileage and is very
streetable (call that a plus, or a minus, as you like).
I just went up to 3.42s and the difference from 3.23s
was not too noticeable; under the "every little bit helps"
theory you ought to go for a set of these, used, low
miles.
streetable (call that a plus, or a minus, as you like).
I just went up to 3.42s and the difference from 3.23s
was not too noticeable; under the "every little bit helps"
theory you ought to go for a set of these, used, low
miles.
man get yourself a yank, even if your not gonna race it, it is just a better built convertor! check out there website it is on the right hand side since they are a sponser. but if your just lookin for a cheap way to get some extra, then a tci or a vig will do you great!
Do a Converter & then Gears, That was my Point of attack..The Yank 3500 or 3800 with 3.42's will do you good I just switched to a Vig 3800. I won't get track times until next weekend
I just switched to a Vig 3800. I won't get track times until next weekend Trending Topics
So whats involved with installing a converter? I am supposed to get tranny cooler too right? Will i need some tuning for the transmission as well? and after i get a set of gears will i need some more tuning? Would it be better to have both installed at the same time and then tuned?
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Originally Posted by grimm2420
So whats involved with installing a converter? I am supposed to get tranny cooler too right? Will i need some tuning for the transmission as well? and after i get a set of gears will i need some more tuning? Would it be better to have both installed at the same time and then tuned?
Yes you should get a good sized trans cooler, and I would also recommend a trans temp gauge if you can fit that into the pricing.
Yes I would wait till you have done both gears and converter and then get it tuned.
I would do a 3200-3800 stall w/3.42 gears. My car ran pretty good with a Vig3600 and 3.42 gears in the past. We pulled some high 1.5 60 easy and the car was putting down very low 12's and high 11's with just bolt-ons. But there are many converter options out there. Check out our sponsors Yank & TCI---------->
You really need to consider how you are going to tune,
for the changes you plan. Headers, and the converter,
both will want some tuning. I would actually put the
tuning bit ahead of both, because the stock transmission
shift programming is really lame and you probably stand
to gain more -street- horsepower / acceleration from
a decent set of shiftpoint settings (WOT and part throttle)
than you do from headers, and properly managed shifting
will do better at getting and keeping you in the powerband.
A higher stall, higher STR converter will pay off, off the line
and "fill in the gaps" when shifting is not what it should be.
And if you have moved to a peakier HP/TQ setup the
converter can keep you on that peak. But at the same time
a converter "exposes more suckitude" in the stock program
transmission settings.
How are you going to get long tubes past Cali smog test?
If you have a way, probably best not to say
But you may
have a problem there and want to reallocate your mod money
to stuff that won't bite your *** regulations-wise.
for the changes you plan. Headers, and the converter,
both will want some tuning. I would actually put the
tuning bit ahead of both, because the stock transmission
shift programming is really lame and you probably stand
to gain more -street- horsepower / acceleration from
a decent set of shiftpoint settings (WOT and part throttle)
than you do from headers, and properly managed shifting
will do better at getting and keeping you in the powerband.
A higher stall, higher STR converter will pay off, off the line
and "fill in the gaps" when shifting is not what it should be.
And if you have moved to a peakier HP/TQ setup the
converter can keep you on that peak. But at the same time
a converter "exposes more suckitude" in the stock program
transmission settings.
How are you going to get long tubes past Cali smog test?
If you have a way, probably best not to say
But you mayhave a problem there and want to reallocate your mod money
to stuff that won't bite your *** regulations-wise.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
[QUOTE=jimmyblue] I would actually put the
tuning bit ahead of both, because the stock transmission
shift programming is really lame and you probably stand
to gain more -street- horsepower / acceleration from
a decent set of shiftpoint settings (WOT and part throttle).
[QUOTE]
I went against the grain and did gears before converter because most of my driving is in town and the 2.73's were a drag. If I were you and doing a 50 mile commute, I would start with the converter, do some tuning, keep the high gears, and see how I liked it.
tuning bit ahead of both, because the stock transmission
shift programming is really lame and you probably stand
to gain more -street- horsepower / acceleration from
a decent set of shiftpoint settings (WOT and part throttle).
[QUOTE]
I went against the grain and did gears before converter because most of my driving is in town and the 2.73's were a drag. If I were you and doing a 50 mile commute, I would start with the converter, do some tuning, keep the high gears, and see how I liked it.
Last edited by RevGTO; Oct 9, 2004 at 06:03 PM.
I did my track performance mods in this order (And was very happy with it, and would do it again just the same).
1. Lid :
2. Smooth Bellows:
3. 3.73 Gears (Then needed Drag Radials):
4. Predator Programmer
5. BFG Drag Radials
6. Longtube Hooker Headers with ORY
7. ST3500 Stall Converter (HUGE!!! AWESOME!!!)
(Got B&M Tranny cooler and TransGo shiftkit, also got a temp gauge.)
I would definatly do things in that order. the gears helped me almost as much as the stall converter (not as much, but diddnt have as much of a toll on drivability either... I think you should do gears, then the Stall. )
1. Lid :
2. Smooth Bellows:
3. 3.73 Gears (Then needed Drag Radials):
4. Predator Programmer
5. BFG Drag Radials
6. Longtube Hooker Headers with ORY
7. ST3500 Stall Converter (HUGE!!! AWESOME!!!)
(Got B&M Tranny cooler and TransGo shiftkit, also got a temp gauge.)
I would definatly do things in that order. the gears helped me almost as much as the stall converter (not as much, but diddnt have as much of a toll on drivability either... I think you should do gears, then the Stall. )
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
