Tranny help???
My question is..how in the hell do these clutches get burned up? Something just doesn't seem right. Now my car is at MTI and my transmission is at Century. They told me they could fix the problem but it was just a bandaid. Looks like I am forced to buy the stage one kit for around $2400, this after dropping nearly $7G at MTI. I'm not a happy camper. I thought it might have been the converter, but MTI said the converter was fine... by the way, this car is my wifes and she babies the **** out of it. Sorry so long, any ideas???
I built a V-8 S-10 from the ground up. It started out mild, it had a 700R4 that I built to stock specs.
Then I added heads and cam, a major power difference and it would slip during the 2-3 shift.
This would have burned up the 3-4 clutch in no time.
Someone online told me the stock clearances for the 3-4 clutch are no good for performance use. Mine was set at .090. Well within stock specs and it's the same on a 4L60E.
I did nothing but pull the trans and reduce the 3-4 clearance from .090 to .038.
Problem solved.
Never slipped a bit with the weak engine.
Now you do have a VCM contolled trans so that may be a seperate issue.
if you babied it and never really got up above 3200+ RPMS, then your converter would have never truly locked up and your tranny would in an essence be slipping the entire drive home of I think you said 180 miles. Just a thought
and I did not see that you had a cooler on the tranny.... need one of those as well
coker
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Yes the trans doesn't say , oh different heads and cam time to burn up.
It's the added power.
If your trans is barely holding on and you go and add 100+ hp then you're going to find it's weak spot. And from what I've seen the 3-4 clutch is a weak spot even in stock form with stock engines. Even if it lasts for 300,000 miles chances are real good the 3-4's will be what went first.
Yes the trans doesn't say , oh different heads and cam time to burn up.
It's the added power.
If your trans is barely holding on and you go and add 100+ hp then you're going to find it's weak spot. And from what I've seen the 3-4 clutch is a weak spot even in stock form with stock engines. Even if it lasts for 300,000 miles chances are real good the 3-4's will be what went first.
I agree with century that over filling wouldn't be that big of a deal......It's real easy to say your 3/4 clutchs are burned, and I'm sure your flattered to think that something you built(or Had built) is sooooooooo powerfull that it blew through your 3/4 clutchs. But thats where it stops.
These Transmissions have 8 to 11 external (to the transmission)electrical controllers that controll the transmission, Line rise and shifting....All of them MUST be working flawlessly, and together for proper line rise to be achieved.(how many of these controllers are disturbed when you have heads and cams installed)? How many post start out just like this one??? How many have you said my stock transmission lasted 100,000 miles,,and my built transmission only lasted me 2000 miles???? You take the old tranny out and install the new one right back into the same ole shitty controll system and expect it to work......It's not these transmissions folks it's the controllers. Simply put.....they suck .....at best.
Clutchs just don't burn because new heads were installed. Clutchs burn like crazy because of low line rise.... fix that and you'll fix these transmission problems...... Jus my two cents...It is not intended to slamb anyone....... I hope this helps Dave






