Flashing SES light,converter not locking up!
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I have a flashing SES light and the converter is not locking up for me. It all started after i did the KR resitor but i don't think it has anything to do with it. Here is what happens,clear the PCM and drive the car for about 2 miles in OD and converter does not lock up,after the car is in 4th and not locking up the SES light starts to flash. It takes about 2 to 3 miles to trigger it! It seems that the PCM is trying to learn why the converter is not locking then throws a code. The car idles fine and runs fine just have the lock up problem. Could it be a shift selinoid or lock up sensor?
We did find a PCM wire that had been scared up a bit and thought that was it but after fixing it still have the same problem. I won't be able to get a TechII scan till monday or so. Has anyone else out there had this problem?
[ November 16, 2001: Message edited by: StreetStalkerZ ]</p>
We did find a PCM wire that had been scared up a bit and thought that was it but after fixing it still have the same problem. I won't be able to get a TechII scan till monday or so. Has anyone else out there had this problem?
[ November 16, 2001: Message edited by: StreetStalkerZ ]</p>
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I'm sure (and I hope) I'm wrong here, but a flashing SES light often means a broken valve spring. But as long as the car's running smooth, that wouldn't be it.
I've had LOTS of experience with the converter not locking up, and it never threw a code.
I've had LOTS of experience with the converter not locking up, and it never threw a code.
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I had a pcm issue this summer and I had an ses light that went on while my pcm was messing with my tranny. I thought my tranny was going because it was acting up but as soon as I got the pcm fixed everything went back to normal. an ses light is usually something related to emmissions.
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HI there,
A flashing SES means that you are having a misfire in the engine.
When this occurs, your PCM will NOT allow your torque converter clutch to engage, this is a default protection.
I am sure you will see a P0300 code in the PCM, along with a possible knock sensor code.
Besttoyou, c4c5
A flashing SES means that you are having a misfire in the engine.
When this occurs, your PCM will NOT allow your torque converter clutch to engage, this is a default protection.
I am sure you will see a P0300 code in the PCM, along with a possible knock sensor code.
Besttoyou, c4c5
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I think the flashine SES light has something to do with an emissions related fault code. Once that happens it might put you in "limp home" mode thus affecting some tranny functions<---Maybe <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
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Not sure on the specifics of the KR resistor mod, but check your ground wires. I forgot to hook up my ground for my tach and got a flashing SES light. <img src="images/icons/shocked.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
Justin
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[quote]Originally posted by c4c5specialist:
<strong>A flashing SES means that you are having a misfire in the engine.</strong><hr></blockquote>
A flashing SES is a "Catalytic Damaging Misfire"... ever since I had a cams (plural) installed, I've had this issue on and off.
Usually only happens at idle. I got it last night while cruising, but I'm thinking it's time for new plugs. <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
I have hidden the problem most of the time, happens only once or twice a month now, except for last night driving home... it's a PITA, probably electrical...
<strong>A flashing SES means that you are having a misfire in the engine.</strong><hr></blockquote>
A flashing SES is a "Catalytic Damaging Misfire"... ever since I had a cams (plural) installed, I've had this issue on and off.
Usually only happens at idle. I got it last night while cruising, but I'm thinking it's time for new plugs. <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
I have hidden the problem most of the time, happens only once or twice a month now, except for last night driving home... it's a PITA, probably electrical...
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[quote]Originally posted by c4c5specialist:
<strong>HI there,
A flashing SES means that you are having a misfire in the engine.
When this occurs, your PCM will NOT allow your torque converter clutch to engage, this is a default protection.
I am sure you will see a P0300 code in the PCM, along with a possible knock sensor code.
Besttoyou, c4c5</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yep what he said. Your PCM will not engage the torque convertor lock up with a misfire code....
<strong>HI there,
A flashing SES means that you are having a misfire in the engine.
When this occurs, your PCM will NOT allow your torque converter clutch to engage, this is a default protection.
I am sure you will see a P0300 code in the PCM, along with a possible knock sensor code.
Besttoyou, c4c5</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yep what he said. Your PCM will not engage the torque convertor lock up with a misfire code....
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Wonder where the misfire is coming from? Plugs are about a month old(TR6s cold plugs)and the car feels strong <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
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Welp you guys were right! Hooked up the Tech II tonight and picked up that cylinder 5 was throwing a misfire code so i changed the plug (plug was foul looking) and snaped the plug wire up ALL the WAY. Seems it backed off a tad and finally did the plug in. Guess i'll drive the car tomorrow to make sure all is well but that is what the code was. Thanks guys <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
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Well looks like I found this thread to late. I had the same thing happen to me ohh well. <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
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Welp thought it was simple like a plug wire or plug but still got the flashing SES light,so i yanked the valve cover off the drivers side since #5 was showing all the bad signs and found a broken valve spring <img src="images/icons/frown.gif" border="0"> Not what i wanted but it's all part of the game i guess.
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[quote]Originally posted by StreetStalkerZ:
<strong>
i yanked the valve cover off the drivers side since #5 was showing all the bad signs and found a broken valve spring.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
So even with a busted valve spring, your idle and power felt ok?? I had a lot of misfires on #5 and swapped plugs, coil pack, wires, & injectors and I still have ATAP showing misfires.
<strong>
i yanked the valve cover off the drivers side since #5 was showing all the bad signs and found a broken valve spring.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
So even with a busted valve spring, your idle and power felt ok?? I had a lot of misfires on #5 and swapped plugs, coil pack, wires, & injectors and I still have ATAP showing misfires.
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[quote]Originally posted by Ragtop 99:
<strong>
So even with a busted valve spring, your idle and power felt ok?? I had a lot of misfires on #5 and swapped plugs, coil pack, wires, & injectors and I still have ATAP showing misfires.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yep! car idles like always with no signs at all and power seems like always but im sure im down on power cause i would not take the car over 2100 rpms till i found out what was wrong. Car would not lock up no matter what.
[ November 23, 2001: Message edited by: StreetStalkerZ ]</p>
<strong>
So even with a busted valve spring, your idle and power felt ok?? I had a lot of misfires on #5 and swapped plugs, coil pack, wires, & injectors and I still have ATAP showing misfires.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yep! car idles like always with no signs at all and power seems like always but im sure im down on power cause i would not take the car over 2100 rpms till i found out what was wrong. Car would not lock up no matter what.
[ November 23, 2001: Message edited by: StreetStalkerZ ]</p>
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Ragtop,if your spring is fine pull that pushrod out on the #5 cylinder and see if it is not slightly bent.
[ November 23, 2001: Message edited by: StreetStalkerZ ]</p>
[ November 23, 2001: Message edited by: StreetStalkerZ ]</p>
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My latest flashing SES light was from my belt slipping off the idler again. I didn't notice it in time, so it shreaded the belt when I was in the middle of nowhere. <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> My spare belt I gave to PSJ a few weeks before too. <img src="images/icons/shocked.gif" border="0">
Ever since the motor was last worked on, my belt somtimes wants to come off the idler. Never had a problem stock, or after the first time the motor was out of the car.
Got a Goodyear Gatorback on there now, instead of a Kelly-Springfield. Hopefully it will work a little better. Should probably check the torque on the balancer too... but the car is almost ready for hibernation. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />
Ever since the motor was last worked on, my belt somtimes wants to come off the idler. Never had a problem stock, or after the first time the motor was out of the car.
Got a Goodyear Gatorback on there now, instead of a Kelly-Springfield. Hopefully it will work a little better. Should probably check the torque on the balancer too... but the car is almost ready for hibernation. <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />
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ok i had the SAME EXACT PROBLEM ON THE SAME CYLENDER, however i pulled the plugs/ wires and replaces with new, checked springs and pushrods, guess what still havnt found the problem, im thinkinf messed up valve, any comments <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">