a4 + tc + gears
if its a manual, id do cam, then TC and trans at the same time, leaving the gears alone
if its an auto car... if its 2.73 id change rear gears first, if 3.23 then deffinatly stall then trans then cam just my .02
i was thinking 3.73
You could do them first, they make a big difference all by themselves.
Trending Topics
Just keep future mods in mind when selecting converters. Even with my daily driver I wish I would have gone higher stall on the converter. If you plan on doing 3.73's go with a 3500 stall or higher, with a STR of around 2.5. You will need drag radials!!
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
When choosing your cam and stall, make sure they will work well together. For example if you go with a large cam your going to need a high stall(4000up). One other word of advise, do some traction mods and don't even think about driving a stalled and cammed car without at least a drag radial. That is unless you like driving in the ditch.
1)Lid and Magnaflow catback-ran 13.54 best with optimum weather conditions on stock tires.
2)Added 3:42 gears-Ran a 13.25 on Dayton Daytona ZR street tires and good weather. Normal was 13.3's
3)Added 2600 SLP Stealth stall-ran a 13.15 and a couple 13.0's,but still could run street tires.
4)Added FLP LT Headers and after tune ran many 13.0's and a few what could have been 12.9's, but was during ET drags and I had to let off. Now I needed Nitto's to hook. I gained on the dyno right at 40 horsepower and didn't see much of a gain, have no idea why.
5)Removed 2600 stall and put in a Fuddle 3400 2.1 str stall and cooler, ran 12.696. This is with around a 3000 DA and hot out. With better conditions a 12.4-5 should be had. I've only had the stall in now for 3 times to track, so still learning. The 12.696 was launching easy at around 2,500 rpms and laying into it. 60' times went to 1.70-1.71. I am experiencing pwm and need a converter tune now, but happy otherwise.
But, thumbs up to your wheels since you changed them to black, they look great. 





BOSS APPROVED!