Transmission cooler install- Pictures
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Transmission cooler install- Pictures Do it once, do it right. I keep hearing of all the leaks and problems people are having with transmission coolers with hoses and barbed fittings. I don't want to worry about it once I do it. The factory cooler lines are hard piped, and permanent, plus they help to dissipate heat, so shouldn't the aftermarket cooler be the same? Here's how I did mine.
I bought some 1/2 mild steel flat stock from Home Depot and bent it up to the width of the a/c condenser coil.
I then placed the metal braces in place on the condenser coil, placed the cooler over them, and marked the mounting holes. I then drilled them out to the diameter of the bolts I was using.
I then cut the heads off the bolts and TIG welded the bolt to the straps I made.
I then mounted the cooler to the condenser coil using lock nuts.
Finally, I bent the 3/8" hard lines (in this case brake lines) flared the ends and installed the new lines.
Add some fluid and that's it. Took me the afternoon and it's done right.
I bought some 1/2 mild steel flat stock from Home Depot and bent it up to the width of the a/c condenser coil.
I then placed the metal braces in place on the condenser coil, placed the cooler over them, and marked the mounting holes. I then drilled them out to the diameter of the bolts I was using.
I then cut the heads off the bolts and TIG welded the bolt to the straps I made.
I then mounted the cooler to the condenser coil using lock nuts.
Finally, I bent the 3/8" hard lines (in this case brake lines) flared the ends and installed the new lines.
Add some fluid and that's it. Took me the afternoon and it's done right.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Very nice. 
However, the factory does use rubber lines/clamps as well on one hard line going out of the cooler and back to the trans. It's a flare end on the hard line going to the rubber hose. That is where I spliced into mine for the aftermaket cooler. Then I put a barbed fitting to splice the other end (bought a better fitting than what came with the kit, made a much tigher fit into the hose) and the cooler already came with flare fittings for its input/outputs. I used 5/16" Goodyear hose (Goodyear is a lot thicker on the outside than other brands of 5/16" trans hose is, allowing greater clamping force without bottoming out the clamp) and fuel injection clamps to hold all the lines together. Bascially I scrapped all the worm gear clamps and the crap 11/32" hose that came with the B&M kit and used better hardware.
Never had any leaks doing it that way, ever. On the other hand, I used to have leaking issues when I used the 11/32" hose over the factory hard line (too big) or the worm gear clamps. I think those two items are what cause most people to devlope leaks.
However, the factory does use rubber lines/clamps as well on one hard line going out of the cooler and back to the trans. It's a flare end on the hard line going to the rubber hose. That is where I spliced into mine for the aftermaket cooler. Then I put a barbed fitting to splice the other end (bought a better fitting than what came with the kit, made a much tigher fit into the hose) and the cooler already came with flare fittings for its input/outputs. I used 5/16" Goodyear hose (Goodyear is a lot thicker on the outside than other brands of 5/16" trans hose is, allowing greater clamping force without bottoming out the clamp) and fuel injection clamps to hold all the lines together. Bascially I scrapped all the worm gear clamps and the crap 11/32" hose that came with the B&M kit and used better hardware.
Never had any leaks doing it that way, ever. On the other hand, I used to have leaking issues when I used the 11/32" hose over the factory hard line (too big) or the worm gear clamps. I think those two items are what cause most people to devlope leaks.
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Very nice.
However, the factory does use rubber lines/clamps as well on one hard line going out of the cooler and back to the trans. It's a flare end on the hard line going to the rubber hose. That is where I spliced into mine for the aftermaket cooler. Then I put a barbed fitting to splice the other end (bought a better fitting than what came with the kit, made a much tigher fit into the hose) and the cooler already came with flare fittings for its input/outputs. I used 5/16" Goodyear hose (Goodyear is a lot thicker on the outside than other brands of 5/16" trans hose is, allowing greater clamping force without bottoming out the clamp) and fuel injection clamps to hold all the lines together. Bascially I scrapped all the worm gear clamps and the crap 11/32" hose that came with the B&M kit and used better hardware.
Never had any leaks doing it that way, ever. On the other hand, I used to have leaking issues when I used the 11/32" hose over the factory hard line (too big) or the worm gear clamps. I think those two items are what cause most people to devlope leaks.
However, the factory does use rubber lines/clamps as well on one hard line going out of the cooler and back to the trans. It's a flare end on the hard line going to the rubber hose. That is where I spliced into mine for the aftermaket cooler. Then I put a barbed fitting to splice the other end (bought a better fitting than what came with the kit, made a much tigher fit into the hose) and the cooler already came with flare fittings for its input/outputs. I used 5/16" Goodyear hose (Goodyear is a lot thicker on the outside than other brands of 5/16" trans hose is, allowing greater clamping force without bottoming out the clamp) and fuel injection clamps to hold all the lines together. Bascially I scrapped all the worm gear clamps and the crap 11/32" hose that came with the B&M kit and used better hardware.
Never had any leaks doing it that way, ever. On the other hand, I used to have leaking issues when I used the 11/32" hose over the factory hard line (too big) or the worm gear clamps. I think those two items are what cause most people to devlope leaks.
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Thats is a very nice install indeed. Although I havent had any issues with leaks or anything else with mine, I am considering replacing the entire cooler, seems too small for the trans braked-4000stalled-TH350. Might have to attempt to do something very similar to your install, just much larger... Maybe I should swap the trans to the condensor and the condensor to the cooler 
install looks great, but one thing IMO i would have used spacers between the two, to help let some heat out,and some air in. Friend did a simular thing that you showed, but used coke bottle caps as spacers on the top/bottom/sides to help let air in and out. but your install makes mine look cheap lol great job on it.
Originally Posted by REDWS6ROCKET
man you make me feel like i duct taped mine on.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Texas
Looks very good, nice job on it.
Have you ever done 37 flare on seamed brake tubing (looks like the 3/8 brake tubing from Autozone)? The last time I did it the seam came apart, and leak really bad. I brazed my ends on.
Have you ever done 37 flare on seamed brake tubing (looks like the 3/8 brake tubing from Autozone)? The last time I did it the seam came apart, and leak really bad. I brazed my ends on.
