BTW, along with installing the stall, ill be installing a B&M 24k cooler, Trans Go shift kit, and trans temp gauge. Should i remove TM to get ful leffect and if i do that, should i upgrade my trans while its out?

 

I would recommend instead of the shift kit, get your PCM tuned. (they will probably mess with TM then) it make a world of difference in my car.

And I say, don't upgrade the trans until you have to.

 

Ok so can i get the shift kit and pcm tune or is it one or the other? Def a pro dyno tune is going to happen after the install. Can someone list what ishould do so i get max performance and reliability? Thanks

 

A pro dyno tune will cost around $350-500 and not really worth it with just a converter. I think what you meant to say is a basic tune which does not dyno the car at all it is just used as a load. around 150 dollars. shift kits are a whole other argument, some people say get them some say dont. "Shift kits dramatically raise transmission line pressure to increase shift firmness. Increased shift firmness will not increase performance, but create unnecessary stress on the transmission and other drive-line components." quote yank website. You could just call John from fuddle and get the right answers instead of just posting and getting mixed responses...When are you going to get this converter?

 

i will be ordering this converter as soon as i can get $550 in my hand, lol. Possible in the next week or few.

 

One thing to keep in mind...

If you do plan on installing a race built transmission, don't listen to anyone who says "don't upgrade until you have to", or "don't fix it if it isn't broken".

Well, most transmission builders require an exchange (sometimes with core charge) and I don't think they would be happy with you sending them a broken transmission.

I would never touch TM on a stock trans, reason being I would rather not bust it up. Others may say otherwise but that's my opinion.

I am doing transmission/converter/flexplate/mount/cooler all at once to keep things simplified with only ONE go of labor and no more. But that's just the way I like to do things.

 

i saw told to get the TM deleted when the stall goes in, otherwise the computer thinks your trans is slipping, in which case the computer trys to adjust for it and in the end it fries the trans

i had the TM deleted back when i was still running the stock convertor, had no problems then, and have no problems now

the way i looked at it was, the LT1 F-bodies didnt have TM and they had the same transmission with no problems, i didnt think i "really" needed it

 

hmmm, whats a good bullet proof 4l60-e for roughly600 hp cost? And instlalations and what not. The car is daily driver, wont be beat on much, i get on it a few times when im out but it wont see the track, maybe once a year or so. I just dont wanna blow stuff up and am worried from hearing some stories about stalls. What are my chances really of having problems if i properly install it and get a good dyno tune?

 

$1500-2000 for the transmission, with exchange.

 

ah, ill wait til she blows, haha. Anyone think ill have any problems? Very slim chance or is there a decent chance ill screw something up in the trans/verter?

 

should be fine on the street the track is wha kills the trans/rear those low 60ft's are what kill them...

 

Ok i should be good than since i will hardly be at the track ,lol. So shift kit or no shift kit? And delete all of TM or jsut some?

 

I can't believe 6 pages and no arguments just great ideas. what is the TM? I was thinking thee same thing going with the 3800 2.1 STR, I see where you wouldn't want to lock your converter up to early otherwise your not maximizing your rpm range. I would think locking it up using the rpm's instead of mph would be a better gauge too maximixe everything. I might go up to a 373 gear eventualy and I know any bigger converter i'll loose time in wheel speed or parts in my tranny keep the thread going.
Nelson

 

TM is the torque management. Basically a restricter o nthe trans from allowing full power to put as least stress on it as possible. With full TM from the factory, you wont maximize the performance from the stall. Its just how much should i take out, all of it or what so i get my performance but dont eff up my trans.

 

I went with Pro Built Automatics "modded" shift kit and had him set it up for street use (I went with one washer) The part throttle shifts are quick and crisp (reducing slippage= less heat) and at WOT they firm up just right, but not even close to being harsh. I wish you were closer man, my setup is pretty similar to what you want You will get mixed reviews in the whole shift-kit thing, but I did plenty of reading and research on them and I think if they are installed and setup properly the will help the life of the trans. Give Dana at pro built a call (search) and he will give you all the info/advice you can take in As far a the TM issue goes i'm not going to completly eliminate mine but take a majorty out. Jimmyblue is the man fot that info.

 

You wouldnt happen to be a MI F-Body member would you? If so ill prolly see you at a few meet up picnics. Anyway, im still thinking about the shift kit. Any input on TM?

 

i didnt do the tuning of mine, so i dont know/remember the specifics but i think i have TM 100% gone

 

and any signs of your tranny wearing at all?

 

friend put a high stall conjverter in his t/a and just used his tuner to change shift points and tune it up. feels just like a shift kit with no worries that the shift kit will **** it up!

 

was going to drop the pan come summer, change the filter, check the magnet for excessive metal shavings
but i got a trans with the stall at the same time
i have yet to have any trans problems (noises, grinding, slipping, ect...) on either trans

i was told to flush the trans fuild regualarly as in once a year or every 15K miles, its been proven to keep the trans alive longer