the install is a straight up bitch. everything in the directions and in the video contradicts each other. i didn't use the springs in the white box cause its not even in the video. there is one part where you have to remove some sort of metal c clip and remove a blue o ring. you can't even do it on an ls1 without dropping the transmission so i didn't do that either. only i actually even did was replaced a few metal poles and put 3 washers in one of the shift solenoids. the install was a bitch and i would never do it again. its not worth it at all. every shop i called and asked if they could do it, said they wouldn't cause of the same reasons i'm giving you. it is a waste of time, money, and nerves. good luck if you try it anyways.

 

I just got my TransGo from Thunder and I was wondering how hard these kits are to install? The directions look pretty straight forward and I will be sure to watch the video. I was wondering if everyone installs the high rev kit with the springs?(comes in white box in the kit)

Thanks.

Jim

 

Thanks for the heads up. Anybody else have problems with the install?

Jim

 

I would like to know, too. I've had my shiftkit for a few months. I can't find a trans shop I trust, heck my speed shop claims to have never heard of TransGo <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> I'm not too sure I want to tackle this myself.

 

well when i was looking for someone to install mine, i called our local ls1 place, more performance. they said they wouldn't do it. i also called MTI and asked if they did them or could help me, but they told me to call some other transmission shop. basically if you want someone to install it, it'll be around 300 bucks just because it is so time consuming. i guess its not really that bad if you know what you DON'T need to do. email me if you start and have any particular questions.

 

I've done maybe 15-20 of them. It's not that bad. When the video differs from the text, stay the text. The servo is a real bitch. It's on the pass. side of the tranny is is real hard to get to. Just take your time and have all the proper tools. BTW I don't install the box of springs either, thats something you do when the trany is out, but is not required. Worth the effort IMO.

 

What BigSam said. Take your time.

I planned every step and cross checked each step with detail tranny diagrams from the GM tech manual. Made sure that I knew when springs were each color. Whereever I was unsure I noted my question and spoke to Transgo tech support to clarify (they were great, but hard to get to).

Yes the 2-4 servo is troublesome. Lower the rear end of the tranny as much as possible, swinging the engine up on the mounts. It must be disassembled part-by-part if your tranny is not out of the car. Take your time and you'll be OK.

When you reassemble the valve plate and top/bottom gaskets, use 3 drill bits or small nails to line up at least 3 holes top to bottom when you place it back up to the valvebody and bolt in place. I have answered a number of posts where certain shifts did not work after the install, and this seems to be from misalignment of the plate and one of the gaskets, plugging a hole.

The video is good overall info, but it does not match the version of 4L60E's in our cars. Use the printed doc.

The clutch springs are only if you rebuild the tranny.

If you're not patient, and a good planner, I wouldn't recommend it. I'm kinda **** about planning, so it went slow, but was a great accomplishment for my first time. I double checked everything as I put it back in place. I had NO problems with my install.

 

I had a transgo installed on my 94vette 3.73 with a PI 9.5" converter by a nationally known racing trans builder. The charge to install was 175.00 in Wisconsin. The only problem was it took two tries to get it done right. After the first install, felt almost like I had a one speed, very soft shifts! Felt like I was towing my 18 1/2 foot Lund boat behind me! Wasn't downshifting correctly either. After the second attempt, shifts were finally crisp and firm, downshifted immediately after tapping the gas when cruising in OD. I doubt I'll put one on my 99Z28.

 

Let someone else do it. I followed the directions and made a small mistake some how. The result was a totally smoked tranny and a blown Vig3200 converter. It is costing me over $2000 to have the tranny built and the converter fixed.. I would have gladly paid $175 for an install. I learned a lesson the hard way. Transmissions are like women, very tempermental and hard to figue out.

 

if you have never had the valve body off of a tranny before, i would not recommend doing it yourself, unless you have someone experienced to help out.

 

Oh, cmon you guys. It's not all that bad.

I did mine myself in a garage on jackstands. Some tips :

Where the video differs from the written instructions, follow the written instructions. The video is ancient but gives good reference for most of the job.

The servo is on the pass side of the tranny and is a BITCH to work on. Use a prybar to push in the cap while removing the c-clamp. Remove the servo components one at a time, dissasembled. When you put it back together it will have to be one component at a time, too. PITA but doable.

Get some snap-ring pliers with long skinny ends. I had mine extended to the very end and they would barely fit up in there to pull the o-ring under the pressure regulator. When you put it back in, make sure the snap ring goes into the SECOND groove. If not, you'll be taking it apart again when you don't have a reverse gear. It should only have barely about 1/8" of play when pushed upwards with a screwdriver, or if you can see the first groove with a shoplight underneath the regulator you know it's in right.

The valve body replacement stuff is easy and straightforward. Just replace the pieces as shown in the video (or use the instructions if they differ). Mostly just spring replacements and adding washers to the shift mechanism for mass.

Be sure to use the right size drill bit when drilling the seperator plate, and that all metal shavings are cleaned off and it's deburred where you drilled. Make sure to torque the valve body bolts back in nice and tight to avoid fluid leaks at the seperator plate (not too tight, the housing is aluminum and can strip since the bolts are steel).

Hope this helps.

Happy driving,
BadAss30th <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />