going from 2:73 to 3:73...worth it?
However, you aren't going to blow your engine because you used stock pushrods. They might bend would hardened ones wouldn't, but that isn't a huge deal and likely won't end with an engine going

so pretty much what im saying, is if racing is important to you, do the gears BUT if it was my car i would save up for the 12 bolt because i dont have enough money to be messing around with constintly breaking the 10 bolt. i would rather save and do it once and do it right...imo. If its your dd and u want it to be streetable, keep the 2.73s itll make ur 10 bolt last a lot longer.
im not takin sides, its just how you look at it and from what perspective. it can easily argued both ways.
as far as the correct order in which to mod your car (digging it up from several pages back), that is another endless argument. its all on what u want and ur preferences. in MY case i chose:
1) Lid + CAI
2) Full Exhaust
3) 3500 Stall
4) ??????
But that was my choice. i dunno if its the right choice or what but I like it.
I've been modding and racing 4th gen F-bodies since 1995. I'm not an expert, but I like to speak (post) from personal experience. That makes me a lot less full of **** than some members here.
This whole debate depends on what the individual car owner wants to get out of his/her car. Me, I'm all about quickness in a drag race when it comes to my '94 Z28 and I find myself identifying with Monicaz28 in her comments. Of course, my '94 is not a daily driver... far from it. So, I can't exactly call a guy a pansy if he doesn't want to mod the hell of out his means to get back and forth to work etc. That having been said... mod the snot out of that bitch!! 3.73's, at least a 3500 stall, tranny cooler, sticky tires, LCA's, torque arm, QA-1 shocks, etc. etc. etc.
If I'm going to take a specific car to the track pretty often, then I really don't care much about gas mileage. I want to be quick.
So, there have been some statements in here that just make me think
If stall +gears means you can't hook up, get some serious tire! If the serious tire won't hook, get some more suspension mods, set the pinion angle and scale your car! Just do it. This isn't the Toyota Prius lovers forum, this forum is for enthusiasts who like power and speed.
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things ive learned from this tread, choco is an idiot and im still in love with monica, and possibly blkz28spt oh and s346ks car is slow :-p
bottom line is this: gears will net you a better result on the street than headers, and probably at the strip as well.
bitch.
bitch.
i don't think i've ever heard anyone say a 12-bolt is a waste of money in an automatic car. i didn't think anyone else was dumb enough. considering an LT1 car bone stock with an auto tranny can easily break a 10-bolt with any type of sticky tire, i'm SURE i can. torsen differentials blow all the time and a buddy of mine with a blue SS auto w/3.73's had a bad axel and he never so much as touched any tire but a street tire and went to the track a whopping once.
My 10-bolt in my '94 A4 was immediately fortified with a girdle when I decided to begin bracket racing it... in 1995 (!) I raced it very regularly every year on DR's or MT ET Streets, probably an average of twice a month, except for 2.5 years when I lived in Europe and the car was in storage. So... my 10-bolt survived hundreds of drag strip launches on DR's. Car was hardly stock either. It ran mid 12's for years and then I got it down to a best of 11.90 with my 355 motor (11.40 on a little spray). Last year it finally came out, still working fine, when I dropped the 385 LT4 stroker in and decided it would be stupid to take it to the track with the 10 bolt.
it doesn't look hard but you never know. maybe i'll get my differential fluid changed one day and slap one on in the process.
it doesn't look hard but you never know. maybe i'll get my differential fluid changed one day and slap one on in the process.
They are simple. Take off your diff cover. Drain oil. Clean gasket surface. Install girdle in place of diff cover, using some quality RTV with a new gasket (or reuse old one if you feel lucky). Set the preload on the carrier bearing caps to 60 in-lbs with a micro torque wrench. Tighten down the locking nuts on the preload studs, making sure you do not turn the studs (keep the allen wrench in them to hold them still) and you are done.
Really?
here is some more info for you that you dont know, its not the axles, or spider gears or anything else that breaks, its the housing that breaks in most cases.
you still dont have any idea of what you are talking about dude





