I've got a 2000 WS6 with 57k on it. The tranny fluid has never been changed. The mileage isn't terribly high but the fluid is almost 7 years old. The tranny has had zero problems.

I've read all through this forum about there being sporadic problems when fluid is changed for the first time on high mileage vehicles. I'm sort of on the fence on this one because the mileage is low but the fluid is old.

Your opinions?

Also, I've searched but I have yet to find a link to a good writeup on how to change the fluid. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

excluding all the bs, you should learn what you need to know from this thread. there's a link that tells how to change the fluid. and yes, do go ahead and change it. tranny fluid is supposed to be changed every 50,000 miles

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/546881-how-much-atf.html

 

actually in severe duty driving it should be changed around 15,000 miles........also the problem with changing old .....if the fluid is black it is ot a good idea to change it becuase it is ready to go anyway.....if your fluid still has a redish brown tint to it then it is ok to change it you will not have any problems.......the problem with changing black fluid is the ntranny has adapted to running with this fluid when you put the new fluid in it it washes away the varnish buildup and makes the clearances like in the valve body too much and there fore you get the going tranny

 

i've heard stories similar to this before. im actually starting to believe it now

 

Thanks guys...I came across that thread already. It seems there is still much debate on this subject.

Like I said...I'm not concerned about the mileage....it's the age of the fluid that concerns me.

I think I'll stop at the parts store tonight and pick up the filter and do it tonight.

 

i have been building trannies for about 10 years and i have built so many trannies with about 200 miles after a oil change it is not even funny.......it is actually recomended that if your fluid had 65,000 miles on to not even change it just save up to get a build done when it goes becuase 75 percent chance if you change it it is going to start to fail

 

let me know how it goes..i have 54k on mine about to hit 55k in a bit, im the second owner got it with 46,500 almost 2 yrs ago. The fluid looks in good shape (still has the redish brown color) Dont know if it was changed at the dealership.

 

change it now you will be ok it has probably been changed before during servicing at factory so you will be ok but i would change it now that way you know when it has been changed or go get the srvice history of the car

 

We changed the fluid in my brother' s A4 with 50K+ miles on it and the color was normal. Everything is still good after adding a stall. I' m sure you' d be okay. Of course, I am not a tranny builder though. JMHO.

Good luck.

 

I couldn't find a write up, so this may help...

drive the car a few miles to warm up the fluid;

lift up the car at least 18" off the ground all around (be safe, use jackstands);

a speed wrench/brace helps bolt removal to go quicker, but you have to lift the car about 2ft to be able to use this;

you may find it easier to first suck as much fluid out from the fill tube using a fluid pump ($10 or so from Autozone) before dropping the pan (doing this makes almost no mess), unless you have a drain plug for some reason;

wipe around the edge of the case where it meets the pan to remove any loose dirt;

as you undo the pan bolts, tie the shift cable/bracket to the exhaust pipe with string so it's clear out of the way;

if pan is stuck, lightly tap it with a hammer, or gently pry the edge at a corner with a screwdriver being very careful to not damage the gasket surface on the case, aim the screwdriver parallel to the pan rail;

after the pan is off, carefully pull and twist off the old filter;

if you want to change the filter seal, see post #5 of this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/547267-how-remove-trans-filter-seal.html

lube the new seal with ATF before you put it on, tap it in using hammer and long socket;

lube the outside of the neck of the new filter with ATF or vaseline;

carefully push the new filter on and make sure it's all the way on, taking care to not break it's neck;

take the magnet out of the pan and wash/clean it;

wash the pan bolts with brake clean;

clean/scrape off ALL the old gasket from the pan and trans. (be careful to not gouge the aluminium gasket surface); make sure both surfaces are clean (Sears sells a gasket scaper that works good);

clean the sludge/oil out of the pan using brake clean, clean the outside of the pan, clean/wash your hands also; let the pan dry (blow compressed air, or allow to air dry);

if the bolt holes on the pan stand proud, carefully flatten/level them using a clean hammer, supporting the pan edge on a bench or vise; don't swing the hammer too hard, don't overdo it; blow out any debris that may have fallen into the pan from hammering;

place the magnet in the pan (see rectangle outline), try to remember this;

position the gasket on the pan and stick 4 bolts up thru the pan and gasket where the 4 gasket bolt holes are smaller to hold the gasket in place;

place pan on trans. and install bolts, hand tighten evenly; torque to 18 ftlb (i.e. snug using a short rachet) in several passes evenly (criss-cross sequence), do not overtighten;

add 4 qts to fill tube using funnel;

if you want to change all the ATF see post #12 of this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546881

otherwise start engine, select each gear briefly, select Park, check level and add fluid; test drive (to warm up fluid), then recheck level is at hot full mark;

take your time, be meticulous, and you won't have any leaks.

 

my car had 45k on it when i got it...and the fluid hadn't been changed prior. i changed the fluid when i installed the shift kit. that was 15k ago, since then i've added a deep pan (at time of shift kit), and a 4k stall (+tranny cooler). the tranny has not missed a beat. i have MANY (200+) passes on it, a ton of downshifts, and a lot of burnouts...i have had NO odd behavior out of it yet.

 

At 57k I'd definitely do a fluid and filter change - you should be fine. But not a flush.

 

Ok...I bought the parts last night and promptly got to work. The fluid inside still had a very nice reddish tint to it....not very dirty at all. In fact, when I opened it up everything looked so new I was shocked. Having fluid in there that was nearly 7 years old I was prepared for the worst.

The hardest part of this process is getting the car up high enough to be comfortable and cleaning up all the oil when you're done.

In the last two days I've changed out my rear diff fluid, my oil and the tranny fluid. The car is running great now.

Thanks!

 

is a flush bad?? i read through some previous threads on here and some ppl say that if you just drop the pan and change the fluid, you dont completely get all of the fluid out (5 qts instead of the 11qts),therfore recontaminating the new fluid with the old.

 

I avoided the flush and just changed the fluid. What you hear is true, only 5 qts with the fluid change, the converter holds the rest of the fluid. I bought the filter and gasket (came as a kit) at Advanced Auto Parts for less than $10.

 

i can get it for 5 bucks lol

 

For both the filter and gasket? If so...great deal.

 

yeah i have a business account at the tranny parts store the gasket is like 97 cents and the filter is right at 4 bucks

 

I find that the black felt/fibre-like gasket works the best (self seals when ATF wets it).

 

is swapping the filter a must, im at 47k now, and i plan on just swapping the fluid, is there any downside to leaving in the filter?