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4L60E fragile?

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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 12:41 AM
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Default 4L60E fragile?

I live in the south (read:100+* during the summer).

I want a car that will go 175K without major issues.

How well does the automatic in a 99-02 LS1 car hold up? Will it last 175K miles if properly serviced (even if played with some) behind a stock LS1 car in the southern heat?

Would I be better served by a manual transmission equiped car?
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 01:32 AM
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clutches are generally cheaper than full auto rebuilds.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 01:43 AM
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In an auto, the 4l60e is going to go out pretty much every time eventually.

But in the M6, the rear will go a lot easier (assuming it's stock).
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 02:17 AM
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So...even with a 24K B&M I am guaranteed to melt down a stock 4L60E behind a stock LS1 before 170K miles?
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 07:50 AM
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keep the RPM's down, do fluid and filter changes every 25,000 miles, put a tranny cooler on it and for goodness sake, drive like a normal human being - assuming it's a stock or light-modded car, it'll last a long, long time. 4L60E's go over 100k in stock and stock-like cars all the time. plus, a built 4L60E = much cheaper than a new rear and clutch when it does go. you can get a tough-as-nails tranny from a sponsor for under 2k that'll take 400rwhp all day long. by your posts, you won't be going that big, so you'll be fine as long as you keep the shift points stock.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 09:55 AM
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Dunno. My buddy has a 98 Z28 with 125K on it. Its served him well and he's always racing in it. It also has a Yank 3800 in it.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Fabian
Dunno. My buddy has a 98 Z28 with 125K on it. Its served him well and he's always racing in it. It also has a Yank 3800 in it.

Damn, he running a cooler? On the street wouldnt 3800 be very high? Is he cammed? stock shift points?
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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Actually I should have clarified. He didnt install the converter til it had like 110K on it. He also put a cooler and he hyperteched the shift points. As far as it being high, I dunno. I have a 3600 on mine and love it. In fact, he's wishing he would have got a 4400....THAT may be a little high though. And not cammed.

Just free mods, cutout, lid and thats about it.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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As with everything the harder you play the more you pay, No one can say that nyour 4l60e will last 175k , But i have seen 4l60e trannys cross th 200k mark and seen them die at 75k , But then i have seen clutches and standard trannys do the same
thanks
performabuilt
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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I am just trying to figure out if i would save money in the long run on repair bills by going M6 or A4. (Not counting the 10-bolt, I will run street tires so that doesnt matter).
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Stanger88
I am just trying to figure out if i would save money in the long run on repair bills by going M6 or A4. (Not counting the 10-bolt, I will run street tires so that doesnt matter).
it won't be much of a difference. with the ~$1,000 a good new clutch runs, you can build your auto. some clutches, depending on how good of one you want, run $1500 or more. with $1500, you can buy a built 4L60E that'll take 400rwhp. M6's are a good tranny, but then you gotta worry about your clutch, your rear, driveshaft...it's easier to focus on just one weak link in the autos.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
it won't be much of a difference. with the ~$1,000 a good new clutch runs, you can build your auto. some clutches, depending on how good of one you want, run $1500 or more. with $1500, you can buy a built 4L60E that'll take 400rwhp. M6's are a good tranny, but then you gotta worry about your clutch, your rear, driveshaft...it's easier to focus on just one weak link in the autos.
That kind of money will get you a 4L60E that will handle 500rwhp. 400 is a piece of cake IMO.
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