4l60E Shift Killer Q's
I even noticed the 1-2 shift is a little lazier now too. I'm shifting at 6300 (224/228 cam: 6100) now. I've replace the 3-4 clutch pack with the "Z-Pak," the beast sunshell, 2-4 band, pump slider spring and the rev-kit (clutch release springs). I've only made about 5 passes on this rebuild (2 passes spraying 150 shot) and daily driving it like a grandma. I don't want to pull the trans out and just replace the 3-4 clutch pack and make another 5 passes and have the same thing happen. My question is "What causes the clutch pack failure?" I don't believe the weak clutch pack answer because too many people have repeat failures with the stock or aftermarket clutch packs. I've been wondering if it is a hydraulic problem releasing or applying the clutch packs; basically one clutch pack or band is still applied while applying the next causing it to drag and burn up the pack. Temp was only 141F while testing also. What do you guys think of this theory? Can drilling the apply and release orifice's for each gear help cure this problem? Any other ideas/cures? I can't afford a pro built trans or a TH350/400. Thanks in advance guys!!! If we can be of any help let us know
Last edited by performabuilt; Dec 13, 2006 at 07:13 PM.
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Is there any way that I can check for crossleaks before I drop the tranny? Is that common, to have crossleaks and/or tie up between two gears?
Is there any way that I can check for crossleaks before I drop the tranny? Is that common, to have crossleaks and/or tie up between two gears?





