[FONT=Comic Sans MS]In reading through the myriad postings of folks needing help, a thought occurred. I suspect a lot of folks are like me, able to work on engines and electronics but are very intimidated by automatic transmissions. I think I "kinda" know how they work but not really.

Could a sticky post be made that would list the most common faults or a few of the most common DTC's and what to do about them? If the basics were put out there then folks could add to them based on their experiences.

For example, I have a 4l60e and a 4.3 vortec out of a '96 truck I am transplanting into an RX-7. Motor and trans out of a junkyard, supposedly OK. Everything in, motor running with no DTC's but tranny does nothing (no reverse, d,3,2,1). I am not seeing any DTC's for the trans. Here's the simple troubleshooting I have done so far.
1. I checked for power on pin e of the multiconnector and have 12vdc.
2. The tunnel clearance is tight where the port is to check for line pressure so I pulled the cooler lines and get no flow from there. I am assuming no line pressure.
3. I dropped the pan to make sure the new filter I put in prior to installation was still in place and it was.

Questions in my mind that have come up that I haven't been able to find answers to.(maybe could be put in the sticky!)
1. Will an electronic transmission work in any fashion if there are no signals or power going to it?
2. For troubleshooting purposes, can the multipin connector be removed and still be able to read with an volt ohn meter the signaling coming from the VCM? The factory manual talks about using their adapter to have everything hooked up to check the signaling.

My thinking for next troubleshooting steps are:
1. Verify signalling from VCM at multipin connector.
2. Verify signalling at the solenoids

If those are normal I have no idea where to go next.

 

You can find a good amount of information here,
http://performabuiltautomatics.com/hauler/FAQ.html

 

well with no power it will default to third gear....unless there is a pump failure or the convertor is not bolted up or is bad the only other thing besides ragged tranny would be the manual shaft linkage not being connected...but to not have anything the whole damn thing would have to be ragged reverse clutches, input drum, low roller and low/R clutches....i am kinda betting on a manula shaft not being connected or a pump failure....edit just seen whre there was no flow from the cooler lines
1. busted pump
2. crack in the filter neck
3. no filter
4. no fluid

 

I would say broken pump

 

I did some reading there and I think I know what it is. At the time I received the engine and trans I separated them to service the trans. After changing the fluid and filter I bolted them back together after having bolted the torque converter to the flexplate first. I didn't have the manual at that time and to be honest, didn't realize that it wasn't supposed to be bolted until everything else was snug. I suspect the tc is not seated into the pump.

The big question now is can I unbolt the tc throught the starter mounting hole and get it to spin and seat or will I have to back out the tranny an inch or so to seat it.

Obviously would prefer not to back it out if at all possible.

You guys and this site are great!

Tnx Fred

 

Unfortunalty its not going to be that simple. You have allreadybroken the pump and will have to remove the trans and at least replace the pump and possibly the converter.

 

Couple of questions as I follow the my newly downloaded ATSG 4l60e guide.

With not knowing the right way to install the trans and TC I have apparently damaged my pump. Never having seen a good one I am kinda shooting in the dark on something.

If you look down the shaft after removing the TC, should you be able to see whatever tabs there are for the TC to align with? When I look at mine I do'treally see anything that looks like it would line up in there.

In the disassembly area of the guide it takes you through the process of a complete disassembly. What are the minimum steps to remove the pump? If I have to go through all steps I will but hoping to reduce them somewhat.

I figure "youse guys" are the experts!

Any help appreciated.

Tnx Fred

 

take off the pan of course and remove the tcc solenoid
take the pump bolts out and if you dont have a puller you can use a screwdriver behind the pump and the reverse input drum and pry it out
are you sure that there are no lugs in the pump those lgs are what the convertor locks to to drive the pump (rotor) i am curious to see if the builder left the rotor and vanes out of the pump lol

 

Anybody know of any pictures that show the lugs the TC aligns with?

Tnx Fred

 

they are two tabs protruding on the inside of the rotor opposite each other